SOUTHERN  BRANCH, 

UNIVERSIIY  0^  CALIFORNIA, 

LIBRARY, 

ILOS  ANG-^LES,  CALIF. 


y^o 


^ 


ALLli.N    DUDWOKTH. 


OCCUPATIONS  FOR 
LITTLE  FINGERS 


OCCUPATIONS  FOR 
LITTLE  FINGERS 

A  Manual  for  Grade  Teachers,  Mothers 
and  Settlement  Workers 

BY 

ELIZABETH   SAGE 

AND 

ANNA   M.   COOLEY,   B.S. 

Of  the  Domestic  Art  Department,  Teachers  College 
Columbia  University,  New  York 

WITH  AN   INTRODUCTORY  NOTE  BY 

MARY  SCHENCK   WOOLMAN 

Director  of  Domestic  Art  Department,  Teachers  College 
Columbia  University,  New  York 

ILLUSTRATIONS  BY  THE  AUTHORS 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER'S  SONS 

1907 


Copyright,  1905,  by 
CHARLES   SCRIBNER'S   SONS 

Published,  September,   1905 


TflOW    OIRECTORV 
PRINTING    AND     BOOKBINDING    COMPAN 
NCW     YORK 


TO 

THE    MANY    LITTLE    PEOPLE    WHO 

WILL    FIND    JOY    THROUGH 

EXPRESSION 


PREFACE 

"  Every  task,  however  simple, 
Sets  the  soul  that  does  it  free." 

From  time  immemorial  man  has  worked  with  his  hands, 
and  his  time  and  attention  have  been  utilized  in  the  produc- 
tion of  things  both  useful  and  ornamental.  ''Necessity" 
very  often  was  the  "mother  of  invention,"  and  the  need  for 
food,  shelter,  and  clothing  led  to  the  gradual  development  of 
industries,  from  the  simple  handwork  to  the  elaborate  prod- 
ucts of  the  factory  system  of  to-day. 

Whether,  then,  through  necessity,  or  simply  because  of  Joy 
in  expression  through  the  hands,  the  world  is  to-day  a  rich 
treasure-house  stored  with  .the  wonderful  products  which 
man  has  created.  The  instinct  for  production  is  not  dead, 
but  will  last  as  long  as  man,  for  to  create  is  a  divine  and  God- 
given  instinct. 

Froebel,  in  his  study  of  the  child,  realized  that  his  natural 
activity  could  be  utilized,  and  turned  into  channels  which 
would  lead  to  his  gradual  development,  physical,  moral, 
and  intellectual.  He  beheved  in  the  development  of  head, 
heart,  and  hand.  For  that  purpose  he  introduced  the  gifts, 
occupations,  songs,  and  plays,  and  allowed  the  child  to  invent 
and  create.     Joy  and  happiness  in  work  were  the  results. 

For  some  time  kindergarten  training  was  a  precarious 
feature  in  education,  but  now  that  this  branch  has  been  in- 
corporated into  the  public-school  systems  and  colleges,  and 
finds  a  place  even  in  university  work,  it  seems  an  assured  fact 
that  children  are  to  receive  some  of  their  early  training  in  the 
kindergarten.  Here  their  crude  ideas  are  worked  out  through 
the  materials  ofTered,  and  the  child  improves  in  his  ability  to 


viii  Preface 

express  himself  with  his  hands — for  expression  is  necessary 
if  images  are  to  be  clear.  This  handwork  satisfies  the  early 
craving  of  the  child  for  play  and  the  practical,  and  the  gifts 
and  occupations  become  playthings  in  his  hands,  but,  un- 
known to  him,  things  of  educational  value. 

When  the  child  leaves  the  kindergarten  and  passes  to  the 
grade  school,  too  often  the  change  is  a  very  abrupt  one. 
There  is  a  lack  of  the  old-time  freedom,  and  an  absence  of  the 
play  materials.  Children  then  begin  to  lose  interest,  and  the 
attention  is  often  forced  rather  than  spontaneous,  and  teach- 
ing ceases  to  be  as  effective. 

As  a  help  in  alleviating  this  difficulty,  handwork  as  one 
of  the  mediums  of  expression  has  been  introduced  into 
many  of  the  grade  schools,  sometimes  in  correlation  with 
other  subjects,  but  more  often  simply  in  an  occupational  way. 
Handwork  as  manual  training  is  most  effective  when  taught 
in  relation  to  the  other  work  of  the  grade,  so  that  there  is 
unity  and  a  harmonious  development.  By  manual  training 
is  meant  not  simply  work  which  is  spontaneously  interesting 
and  keeps  the  child  alert  and  active,  but  work  which  is 
educationally  effective.  This  effectiveness  is  in  the  hands  of 
the  teacher,  and  will  be  worked  out  by  her  if  she  under- 
stands the  theory  back  of  real  manual  training. 

This  little  book  is  in  answer  to  a  number  of  demands  which 
have  come  from  different  parts  of  the  country.  Busy  mothers 
at  home,  grade  teachers  and  settlement-workers  are  con- 
stantly asking,  "What  can  I  do  with  my  children?  They 
want  something  to  (/o."  The  object  of  this  book  is  simply 
to  furnish  some  ideas  and  to  act  as  a  suggestive  medium; 
in  no  way  does  it  attempt  to  correlate  the  work  for  the 
teacher.  It  has  been  left  for  her  to  utilize  the  material  here 
offered  in  working  out  her  schemes  for  unity  in  the  develop- 
ment of  the  class  work. 

In  the  study  of  various  kinds  of  handwork  for  children,  one 
will  find  that  they  are  most  interested  in  form  when  it  is 


Preface  ix 

associated  with  function  or  color;  that  children  are  interested 
in  things  in  connection  with  people,  animals,  and  plants,  and 
when  they  can  construct  something  in  which  they  can  feel  the 
sense  of  self,  as  the  cause  of  that  construction,  the  joy  of  ex- 
pression brings  great  happiness. 

Constructive  handwork  offers  many  opportunities  for  the 
development  of  design,  and  often  a  detail  of  design  lends 
an  atmosphere  of  greater  reality  to  an  object,  especially  when 
the  object  made  is  of  miniature  size  and  is  for  play-use,  as 
a  doll's  table-cover,  cushion,  chair,  hat,  etc.  Children  feel 
many  things  in  their  imagination,  and  a  little  touch  of  reahty 
in  design  furthers  that  imaginative  thought.  Many  oppor- 
tunities are  offered  in  this  work  for  the  teaching  of  harmony 
of  color,  for  the  adaptation  of  design  to  use,  and  for  the 
correct  placing  of  design  in  relation  to  the  space  offered  for 
decoration.  Teachers  are  urged  to  lay  particular  emphasis  on 
the  design,  which  in  previous  years  has  been  very  much 
neglected.  "The  highest  aim  of  art  is  to  make  some  useful 
thing  beautiful." 

The  writers  have  realized  the  necessity  for  keeping  the  cost 
of  the  articles  made  at  a  minimum.  As  represented,  perhaps 
a  few  are  beyond  the  average  public-school  treasury  or  purse 
of  the  settlement-worker,  but  they  can,  almost  without  excep- 
tion, be  reproduced  in  less  expensive  materials.  The  work 
will  be  equally  valuable,  only  in  the  cheaper  goods  there  is 
not  always  the  same  opportunity  for  harmony  of  color  and 
for  artistic  production. 

Perfect  and  accurate  work  should  not  be  expected  from 
young  children,  but  the  teacher  must  consider  the  age  and 
ability  of  the  child,  and  judge  the  results  accordingly.  A 
very  crude  piece  of  work,  produced  perhaps  by  a  child  in 
some  school  of  reform  nature,  may  have  been  of  far  more 
help  and  value  in  that  child's  development  than  that  produced 
under  far  more  favorable  circumstances. 

The  writers  hope  that  within  these  covers  may  be  found 


X  Py^eface 

suggestions  for  the  teachers  of  such  little  people  as  especially 
need  help,  and  that  the  book  may  be  the  means  later  on  in 
life  of  introducing  them  to  much  broader  fields  of  expression 
through  which  great  joy  may  come  to  them  and  be  given  to 
the  world. 

Thanks  are  due  to  the  Domestic  Art  Students  of  Teachers 
College,  Columljia  University,  fc^r  the  use  of  S(jme  of  the 
articles  photographed. 


CONTENTS 


Preface 

iNTkOUUCTORV    NOTE 


PAGE 

vii 


CHAPTER 

I.     A  Talk  arout  the  Materials  Used 


II.  Some  Uses  for  Cord  and  String 

III.  A  Few  Suggestions  for  Raffia 

IV.  Coarse  Sewing        .... 
V.  Paper  Cutting  and  Folding    . 

VI.  Some  Stories  in  Clay  . 

VII.  Weaving 

VIII.  Bead-Work 

IX.  How  to  Furnish  a  Doll's  House 

X.  Simple  Upholstery  for  Home  Use 

XI.  Crocheting  and  Knitting 

XII.  Some  Special  AVork  for  Boys  , 

Xni.  How  to  Use  Nature's  Materials 


7 
i8 

34 
46 
60 

67 
81 

Qi 
104 

113 
125 
140 


LIST  OF  PLATES 

Indian  Iafe,    First    Cirade,    Horace    Mann    School, 

Teachers  College,   New  York  City  .       .     Frontispiece 

PLATE  PAGE 

I.     Cord-Work. 15 

II.     Akiicles  Made  from   Raffia 20 

III.  Articles   Made  from  Raffia 23 

IV.  Coarse  Sewing 36 

V.     Pai'er  Cu  rn  ng 47 

VI.     Paper  Cutting  and   Folding 58 

VII.     Clay  Modeling 61 

VIII.     Weaving 73 

IX.     Some  Looms 77 

X.     Bead-Work 85 

XI.  Furniture  for  Doll's  House         ....     93 

XII,     Upholstery 105 

XIII.  Crocheting  and  Knitting 115 

XIV.  Work  for  Boys* 127 

XV.     Work  for  Boys 133 

XVI.  The  Use  of  Nature's  Materials  ....   145 


LIST  OF  FIGURES 


Chain  Stitch  .  . 
Blanket  Stiti  h 
Detail  o{  Lanyard 
Three-Strand  Braid 
Half  Hitch  .  .  . 
Double  Chain  Stitch 
Detail  of  Horse  Reins 
Slip  Loop  .... 
Loop  for  Hammock. 
Detail  of  Whip  .  . 
Sailor  Knot  .  .  . 
Feather  and  Catch  Stitch 
Detail  for  Napkin  Ring 
Paired  Weaving  .  .  . 
Wattling  ..... 
Detail  for  Umbrella  .  . 
Start  for  Mat  .... 
Overhand  Knot  .  .  . 
Solomon's  Knot  . 
Start  and  Stitch  for  Coiled 

Basket      .... 
^L1t  Borders     .     .     . 

Netting 

Uneven  Blanket  Stitch 
Even  Blanket  Stitch 
Running  Stitch  .  . 
Cross  Stitch  .  .  . 
Detail  of  Letter-Case 
Detail  of  Iron-Holder 


14 
16 

17 


24 
24 


^5 
26 

27 


2y 
30 
A- 
37 
38 
38 
39 
39 
40 


29. 
30- 

31- 
32- 
33- 
34- 
35- 

36. 
37- 
38- 
39- 

40. 
41. 
42. 

43- 
44. 

45- 
46. 

47- 
48. 
49. 
50- 
5i' 
52. 
53. 
54 


Tying  of  Fringe  ....41 
Two    Runs    and    a    Back 

Stitch        42 

Overhand  Stitch    ....  42 

Overcasting 43 

Stitching  Stitch      ....  44 

Couching 44 

Detail    for    Five-Pointed 

Star 48 

Detail  for  .^ccofdion       .     .  48 

Pinwhccl 49 

Sketch  for  Paper  Dolls  .  .  50 
Pattern     for     Conventional 

Cutting 51 

Picture  Frame       .     .     .     .  52 

Wall  Pocket 53 

Screen 54 

Envelope 55 

Pattern  for  Box     ....  55 

Drawing  for  Lamp  Shade   .  56 

Detail  of  Lamp  Shade  .     .  57 

Sketch  of  Fish       ....  63 

Coiled  Basket 64 

Detail  of  Bowl       ....  66 

Splint  Weaving      ....  69 

Rings  for  Hammock       .     .  70 

Zuni  Heddle 72 

Shuttle 75 

Detail  for  Pattern  Weaving  76 


XVI 


List  of  Figures 


FIG. 

PAGE 

FIG. 

55- 

Circular  Weaving  for  Pocket 

80 

79- 

56. 

Pattern  for  Moccasin      .     . 

81 

80. 

57- 

Detail  of  Moccasin    .     .     . 

82 

81. 

58. 

Start  of  Egyptian  Chain 

84 

82. 

59- 

Bead  Chain      .... 

86 

83. 

60. 

Bead  Chain       .... 

87 

84. 

61. 

Mount  for  Fob      .     .     . 

88 

85- 

62. 

Daisy  Chain      .... 

89 

86. 

63- 

Box  for  Bed      .... 

92 

87. 

64. 

Toilet  Table     .... 

95 

88. 

65. 

Pattern  for  Arm-Chair  . 

97 

89. 

66. 

Start  for  Table      .     .     . 

98 

90. 

67. 

Rattan  Arm-Chair     .     . 

100 

91 

68. 

Detail  of  Arm-Chair 

lOI 

92 

69. 

Detail  of  Arm-Chair 

lOI 

93- 

70. 

Passe-partout    .... 

102 

94 

71- 

Mitre  for  Corner  .     .     . 

107 

95 

72- 

Pattern    for    Window-Sea 

96 

Cover 

III 

73- 

Ball  for  Tam-o'-Shanter 

.   114 

97 

74- 

Double  Crochet  Stitch   . 

.   116 

98 

75- 

Pattern  for  Slipper  Sole 

.   116 

99 

76. 

Spool  Knitting       .     . 

.   120 

100 

77- 

Setting  Up  for  Knitting 

.   121 

lOI 

78. 

Detail  for  Folding  of  Hooc 

122 

102 

PAGE 

Folding  of  Jacob's  Ladder  126 
Folding  of  Palm-Tree  .     .126 

Soldier  Hat 128 

Epaulets 129 

Ball-Cover 129 

Drawing  Stitch    ....   130 

Kite  Frame 130 

Kite 131 

Indian  Tent 132 

Trousers  for   Indian   Doll   135 
Coat  for  Indian  Doll   .     .   135 

Indian  Bow 136 

Bumper  for  Sail  Boat        .   137 

Doll 138 

Patterns  for  Doll's  Clothes  138 

Seed  Chains 141 

Start  of  Grape-vine  Basket  141 
Handle      for     Grape-vine 
Basket 142 

146 


Detail  of  Fern  Basket 

Pattern  for  Canoe    . 

Finish  for  Birch-bark  Bo.x  147 
151 
152 


Start  for  Grass  Basket 
Turning  Side  of  Basket 
Pattern  with  Corn  Husks  154 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTE 

The  child  is  naturally  a  worker.  He  will  destroy  if  he 
does  not  know  how  to  make.  Destruction  interests  him  as 
much  as  construction.  He  hkes  to  see  "the  wheels  go 
around,"  and  it  matters  little  to  him  if  the  gratifying  of  his 
desires  is  advantageous  or  not  to  the  article  in  hand. 

Mothers,  who  were  the  earliest  and  should  be  the  best 
teachers,  long  ago  found  that  the  happiest  child  was  the 
busy  one.  They  discovered  also  that  to  keep  him  at  work 
he  must  be  interested  in  the  thing  he  is  doing.  To  ac- 
complish this  they  must  provide  that  which  he  feels  to  be 
worth  the  effort.  It  must  be  something  which  he  under-/ 
stands  and  which  he  can  finish  in  a  short  time.  A  stupid, 
difficult  "stint"  such  as  poor  Little  Prudy  had  to  finish  daily 
is  not  calculated  to  increase  a  love  for  work.  The  wise  and 
patient  mother  has  it  in  her  power  to  create  an  interest  in 
the  daily  work  of  the  household.  Even  such  homely  tasks  as 
sweeping,  dusting,  and  sewing  may  be  taught  to  the  children 
and  prove  pleasurable  and  profitable  to  them. 

Handwork  has  its  place  in  education  as  well  as  in  the  daily  ' 
life.  It  should  ever  be  "a  blessing,  not  a  doom."  It  may 
give  in  both  places  rich  returns,  which  should  aft'ect  the  child 
in  the  development  of  his  thought,  of  his  emotional  life,  and 
of  his  character.  The  results  of  the  work  are  the  child's, 
but  the  mother  and  the  teacher  must  study  how  best  to  give 
the  full  joy  of  work  to  the  children. 

This  book  considers  the  needs  of  both  the  mother  and 
the  teacher.  It  has  been  written  by  two  teachers  who  know 
and  love  children  and  who  have  practically  worked  out  with 
theni  tile  things  of  which  they  write.     It  tries  to  meet  the 


xviii  Introductory  Note 

child's  constant  cry,  "What  shall  I  do?"  with  a  direct  reply 
full  of  help  and  of  interest.  Mere  formal  models  are  not 
mentioned,  the  book  deahng  with  attractive  and  useful 
articles.  It  sets  forth  the  best  way  of  making  such  articles 
and  it  tells  what  they  should  cost.  Simple  crafts  from 
many  industrial  fields  are  chosen  in  order  that  variety  in 
work  may  increase  the  child's  interest  in  the  world  about 
him.  The  teacher  who  has  the  handwork  in  the  early 
grades  finds  here  a  series  of  valuable  suggestions,  while  the 
mother  is  fortified  with  delightful  occupations  for  rainy  days. 
This  Httle  book  should  therefore  increase  the  helpfulness  and 
happiness  of  many  little  workers  in  the  school,  the  settlement, 
and  the  home. 

Mary  Schenck  Woolman. 


I 


OCCUPATIONS  FOR 
LITTLE  FINGERS 


OCCUPATIONS  FOR  LITTLE 
FINGERS 

CHAPTER  I 

A   TALK   ABOUT    THE    MATERIALS   USED 

The  resourcefulness  of  localities  varies  in  such  a  degree 
that  materials  which  may  be  quite  feasible  and  easy  for  one 
teacher  or  mother  to  obtain  may  be  rather  difficult  for  an- 
other. In  this  talk  on  the  materials  used  it  is  hoped  that 
suggestions  may  be  offered  which  will  make  it  possible  for 
even  those  in  more  remote  districts  to  carry  on  some  of  the 
occupations  presented,  though  perhaps  in  not  quite  the  same 
way  as  outlined  in  the  following  chapters. 

Many  varieties  of  cord  will  be  found  adaptable  to  the  kind 

of  work  presented  in  the  chapter  on  that  subject.     Even  a 

piece  of  discarded  string   mav   be   utilized; 

CORD 
odds  and  ends,   saved  from  time  to  time, 

may  be  sorted  and  knotted  together  if  it  is  possible  to  procure 

no  other. 

Macrame  cord  lends  itself  to  this  variety  of  work  in  a  most 

pleasing  way,  as  it  is  soft  and  pliable.     It  may  be  obtained 

from  wholesale  twine  houses,  and  costs  about  twenty-five 

cents  a  pound,  and  the  numbers  vary  according  to  the  size 

of  the  cord,  No.  i6  being  finer  than  No.  60.     A  hank  of  the 

fine  will  go  farther  than  one  of  larger  size.     The  hanks  are 

wound  in  a  way  similar  to  worsteds,  and  for   large  classes 

the  teacher  will  find  it  advisable  to  wind  a  number  of  small 

balls,  and  distribute  the  cord  in  that  way.     Colored  macrame 

may  be  procured  in  balls  for  ten  cents  each. 

1 


2  Occupation.s  for  Little  Fingers 

The  netting-needles  used  in  making  cord  hammocks,  bags, 
etc.,  in  which  the  netting  stitch  is  used,  may  be  procured 
generally  at  a  kindergarten  supply  place.  If  none  is  near, 
the  needles  and  mesh-sticks  may  be  made  by  the  children 
(see  Fig.  22),  or  pieces  of  old  rulers  may  be  used  for  mesh- 
sticks,  and  a  round  pointed  stick  for  needle.  The  cord  may 
be  wound  around  the  stick  first  to  one  side  and  then  to  the 
other.  Care  must  be  taken,  however,  not  to  fill  the  needle 
too  full,  as  it  will  be  quite  difficult  to  put  through  the  mesh. 

Raffia  has  been  used  so  extensively  during  the  past  few 
years  that  it  will  perhaps  be  the  material  most  easily  obtain- 
able.    It  is  possible  to  order  small  quantities 
RAFFIA 

by  mail,  or  to  obtain  it  at  a  neighboring 

florist's.  Large  quantities  may  be  ordered  from  wholesale 
seed  stores  in  most  of  the  large  cities.  Some  wholesale  firms 
have  several  qualities,  and  will  ship  in  large  quantities  at 
reduced  rates;  colors  may  also  be  obtained.  The  kinder- 
garten supply  places  also  deal  in  both  plain  and  colored,  and 
are,  perhaps,  more  satisfactory  shops  if  only  small  quantities 
are  desired.  The  department  stores  in  some  cities  also  carry 
a  supply. 

Raffia  comes  principally  from  Madagascar,  and  is  a  natural 
material  which  forms  the  outside  covering  of  a  palm.  It  is 
of  yellowish  color,  soft,  and  easy  to  handle. 

^lore  satisfactory  results  may  be  obtained  in  working  with 
the  colored  raffia  if  the  vegetable  dyes  have  been  used. 

Many  materials  may  be  used  for  the  work  in  coarse  sewing. 
If  the  locality  does  not  offer  any  of  the  canvas  or  burlap 

varieties,  one  can  always  find  a  substitute, 

CANVAS  u  u  •  •     1- 

such    as    heavy   scrim,    cnnohnc,    or   some 

coarsely   woven   material.     Denim    can    be 

found  in  most  places. 

The  Java  canvas,  basket  burlap,  and  cotton  burlap  are  so 

wide  that  a  yard  is  sufficient  for  quite  a  number  of  small 

articles.     Jute  burlap,  one  yard  wide,  may  be  bought  for 


A  Talk  Al)()ut  the  Materials  Uml  3 

15  cents.  Java  canvas  is  more  expensive,  the  price  varying 
from  75  cents  a  yard  to  $1.  The  basket  burlap  is  woven  in 
sc|uares  and  costs  $1.50  per  yard.  The  price  of  denim  is  15 
cents  a  yard,  and  that  of  cotton  burlap  $1.25. 

These  may  be  obtained  at  art-embroidery  shops,  and  often 
in  department  stores.  By  the  quantity  they  seem  costly, 
but  it  must  be  remembered  that  each  child  receives  only  a 
small  piece,  and  the  canvas  is  very  v^^ide. 

Germantown  wool  may  be  used  for  sewing,  and  although 
less  expensive  than  a  mercerized  cotton,  is  liable  to  become 
moth-eaten.  It  may  be  obtained  at  art  or  department  stores. 
Poseidon,  referred  to  in  Chapter  IV,  is  a  mercerized  cotton 
thread,  and  comes  in  small  hanks  in  various  numbers.  The 
colors  are  very  beautiful  and  make  an  artistic  finish.  It 
may  be  obtained  for  35  cents  a  dozen  skeins. 

San  silk  may  be  substituted  for  Poseidon,  although  the 
colors  are  not  as  pretty;  a  large  spool  costs  only  4  cents,  and 
if  the  best  colors  are  selected  the  results  are  very  effective. 
Some  art  stores  and  nearly  all  department  houses  keep  it. 
The  Prisma  cotton  mentioned  is  a  heavy  form  of  Poseidon. 

For  the  card  sewing,  kindergarten  supply  places   furnish 
the  best  variety.     These  cards  may  be  obtained  in  many 
sizes.     Those  4x5  inches  cost  30  cents  a 
hundred.     If  it   is   not   possible   to   obtain        cp-wTTMr 
these,  any    scrap    of   card-board  or    heavy 
paper,  and  even  an  old  visiting-card,  may  be  pressed  into 
service. 

Any  available  piece  of  paper  may  be  used  for  folding. 
Cartridge-paper  by  the  roll,  for  wall  hang- 
ing, is  inexpensive.     It  may  be  found  at  all  PAPER  CUT- 
paper-hangers  and  decorators',  for  about  20       pOLDINr 
cents  a  roll.      Many   other    useful    papers 
may  be  found  at  the  same  place. 

Ordinary  brown,  and  even  cheap  straw  papers,  make  artistic 
effects,  either  as  backgrounds  or  for  the  folded  form. 


4  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

Kindergarten  papers  come  in  all  the  colors,  shades,  and 
tones,  and  are  very  beautiful.  Those  cut  4x4  inches  cost 
20  cents  a  hundred,  and  can  be  obtained  at  kindergarten 
supply  places.  Black  paper  is  useful  in  cutting,  especially 
for  silhouetting,  and  is  inexpensive.  Bogus  paper  is  also  very 
cheap ;  it  costs  70  cents  per  500  in  the  9x12  inch  sheets. 

For  very  simple  work  with  young  children,  the  potter's  gray 
clay  serves  the  best  purpose.  It  can  be  obtained  at  a  neighbor- 
ing  potter's  or  at  pottery  works,  or  even  at  kin- 
dergarten supply  houses.  It  is  sold  in  bricks, 
and  costs  about  2  cents  per  pound,  or  $1.50  per  100  pounds. 

One  simple,  flat,  wooden  stick  is  the  only  tool  which  is 
really  needed,  and  much  may  be  accomplished  without  this, 
with  wire,  toothpicks,  string,  knitting-needles,  etc. 

Looms  of  some  description  must  necessarily  be  used  after 

the  simple  splint  weaving  has  been  studied.     Looms  may  be 

improvised  from  paper  candy-boxes,  or  any 

,„  .  _„_,^ .  T  „    kind  of  a  small  wooden  box  will  answer  the 
MATERIALS 

purpose. 

There  are  a  number  of  small  looms  on  the  market,  such  as 
the  Woolman,  Todd,  and  others.  Indian  looms  may  be 
made  of  four  natural  sticks  bound  at  the  corners.  The 
marketable  looms  range  in  price  from  75  cents  to  $1.50. 

The  woolen  yarns  for  weaving  seem  to  be  best  in  effect,  but 
arc  more  expensive  than  cotton.  Strips  of  cloth  or  rags  may 
be  used,  and  are  very  inexpensive.  Carpet  yarns  may  be 
procured  in  a  number  of  shades  at  75  cents  per  pound. 

German  town  wool  and  wool  rug  yarn  are  soft  and  pleasing. 
Wool  yarns  may  often  be  obtained  from  rug  houses,  that 
arc  glad  to  dispose  of  small  quantities  of  left-over  shades  in 
various  numbers.  These  vary  in  price  from  75  cents  to  $1.50 
a  pound,  according" to  number. 

Raffia  may  be  used  in  weaving  small  articles,  but  is  not  as 
satisfactory  as  other  materials.  Candle- wicking  or  cable 
cord  is  inexpensive  material  for  elementary  weaving  work. 


A  Tdlh'  AJ)ont  flic  Materials  Used 


BEAD-WORK 


Linen  thread  is  generally  used  in  making  bead-work  be- 
cause of  its  superior  strength.     It  may  be 
obtained  at  any  department  store. 

The  beads  come  in  a  variety  of  sizes,  and  are  numbered 
according  to  color  and  size.  The  wholesale  bead  houses 
furnish  illustrated  lists  of  the  prices  per  bunch;  they  may  also 
be  purchased  at  the  shops  dealing  in  Indian  goods.  At  the 
kindergarten  supply  houses  beads  of  assorted  colors  are 
sometimes  sold  by  the  box. 

Most  of  the  materials  mentioned  in  the  chapters  on  Cro- 
cheting, Upholstery,  and  the  Doll's  House 
may  be  obtained   at  a  department  or  art-   POLL'S  HOUSE 

I     -A  .  \    y  .     f  .u  .     •  1       UPHOLSTERY 

embroidery  store.     A  list  or  the  materials,   r-ROCHETING 

with  their  widths  and  prices,  is  given  below : 


Width, 
inches 

Burlap  (cotton) 67 

"       (jute)    26 

Canvas  (Java)  (cream) 36 

(colors) 36 

"  "  "  T  K 

"       (white)  ...'...'..'.'..'...  18 

Dimity 30 

Scrim  (heavy) 40 

Muslin — Alpine  Rose  36 

(unbleached) 36 


Holland  Linen 42 

Art  Ticking 36 

Brussels  Net 36 

Wool— Columbia  Yarn 

"    — Saxony  

"    — Zephyr 


Prite 
per  yard 

$1.00 

•35  ■ 
70 

45 
35 

25 

25 

35 
II 

07 

35 
25 

35 

Per  lb. 

Si. 45 
1.50 

2.20 


The  material  for  the  rattan  furniture  may  be  bought  at  a 
kindergarten  su])ply  house  or  at  a  rattan  company.  It  is 
sold  by  the  pound  and  is  numbered  according  to  size — the 


6  OccujJdfiofisfor  Little  Fingers 

smaller  the  number  the  finer  the  reed  or  rattan.     The  num- 
bers and  prices  are  given  below: 

No.  I,  per  lb $1.25 

No.  2,       "       i.oo 

No.  3,       '•       75 

No.  4,       "       75 

No.  5,       "       60 

Retail  prices  have  been  given  in  all  the  lists  furnished  in 
this  chapter,  and  are,  of  course,  subject  to  variation.  By 
buying  at  wholesale  a  large  reduction  may  be  obtained. 

Where  the  cost  of  articles  is  given  in  the  following  chapters 
the  estimate  is  based  on  materials  bought  in  large  quantities, 
and  in  every  case  the  cost  has  been  worked  out. 


CHAPTER  II 

SOME    USES    FOR    CORD   AND    STRING 

There  is,  perhaps,  nothing  which  so  appeals  to  the  average 
boy  or  girl  as  a  bit  of  string.  It  has  wonderful  possibilities, 
and  slow  is  the  boy  who  does  not  work  it  to  its  utmost  capacity, 
from  spinning  a  top  to  playing  at  cat's  cradle  with  another 
boy. 

When  it  is  introduced  into  the  school-room  the  children  arc 
made  extremely  happy.  Simple  knotting  may  be  begun  with 
six-year-old  children.  This  work  trains  the  eye  with  the 
hand ;  measurement  and  spacing  are  taught,  as  well  as  num- 
ber, color,  and  a  certain  deftness  of  touch.  The  child  must 
be  attentive  and  thoughtful  in  order  to  follow  well,  and  he 
is  so  interested  that  he  does  so  unconsciously.  This  work 
strengthens  the  arm  and  finger  muscles,  and  appeals  to  the 
child's  desire  to  invent. 

Macrame  cord  is  generally  used  for  this  work,  but  odd  bits 
of  string  may  be  utilized  if  no  other  can  be  procured. 

\'ari()us  kinds  of  knotting  may  be  taught,  and  these  can  be 
used  in  many  ways,  in  the  making  of  raffia  hats,  bags,  nets, 
etc. 

In  demonstrating  the  cord  work,  the  teacher  will  find  it 
helpful  to  use  large  upholstery  cords  of  various  colors. 

Cord  work  may  be  used  as  an  introduction  to  crocheting, 
and  simplifies  the  approach  to  that  work.  It  has  been  used 
with  great  success  in  the  summer  playgrounds  for  children, 
and  the  teachers  have  welcomed  it  as  an  interesting  and  in- 
structive occupation. 

7 


Occupations  J  or  Little  Fingers 


L     The  Curtain  Cord 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  i6,  3  yards. — i  brass  ring,  i 
inch  in  diameter.     Approximate  cost  per  child .01 

The  curtain  cord  is  made  by  using  the  chain-stitch,  as  in 
crocheting,  but  the  fingers  are  used  instead 
of  a  needle.  Begin  by  making  a  circle,  or 
letter  O,  at  one  end  of  the  cord.  Double  the 
long  end  and  draw  the  loop  through  the  circle 
(see  Fig.  i).  Continue  until  two  yards  of  the 
cord  have  been  looped  in  a  similar  manner. 
Then  pull  the  end  of  the 


Fig.  1. 


cord  all  the  way  through  the 
last  loop  in  order  to  fasten 
it  securely  before  finishing 
with  the  ring.  Place  the 
ring  close  to  the  last  chain- 
stitch,  and  use  the  blanket- 
stitch  in  covering  the  ring 
with  the  cord  (see  Fig.  2). 
After  this  has  been  done, 
run  the  end  of  the  cord  up 

through  the   chain-stitch   for   two   inches, 

and  cut  it  off  close. 


II,     The  Sailor^s  Lanyard 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  16,  8 
yards. — Macrame  cord.  No.  6,  2  yards. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

Five  inches  from  the  end  of  the  eight- 
yard  piece  start  the  chain-stitch,  as  in 
making  the  curtain  cord  (see  Fig.  i).  Continue  to  within 
five  inches  of  the  other  end   of  the   cord.     Pull   the  end 


Fig. 


Some  Uses  for  Cord  and  String'  9 

through  the  last  loop  in  order  to  fasten  it  securely.  With  the 
fine  cord  bind  the  two  five-inch  pieces  together.  Begin 
just  below  the  last  chain-stitch,  working  over  the  end  of  the 
fine  cord  with  the  blanket-stitch  (see  Fig.  2).  Continue  for 
one  inch  from  the  chain-stitch,  working  over  the  two  cords. 
Divide  the  two  cords  and  form  a  loop,  having  the  ends 
overlap  (see  Fig.  3).  Continue  with  the  blanket-stitch 
around  the  loop  thus  formed. 
Run  the  end  of  the  cord  under 
the  blanket-stitch  when  the 
loop  has  been  finished. 

IIL    The  Whistle  Chain 

Materials.  —  Macrame  cord, 
No.  60,  2  J  yards.  — 
Whistle.  Approximate 
cost  per  child 01^ 

Four  inches  from  one  end  of 
the  cord  begin  the  chain-stitch, 
as  in  making  the  curtain  cord 
(see  Fig.  i).  Continue  to 
within  four  inches  of  the  other  end,  and  pull  this  through  the 
loop  in  order  to  fasten  it.  The  whistle  is  strung  on  one  of  the 
four-inch  ends  of  the  crocheted  chain,  and  that  end  is  run  up 
through  the  chain-stitch.  It  may  be  sewed  to  hold  it  more 
securely.  The  other  end  for  the  button  loop  is  finished  by 
running  the  end  of  the  cord  down  through  the  crocheted 
chain  and  fastened  with  sewing. 

IV.     The  Scissors'  Guard 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  60,  3  yards. — i  pair  small 
scissors. 

This  guard  is  made  of  a  three-strand  braid.     Cut  one 
yard   from    the    three-yard    length.     Double    the   two-yard 


10 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


Fig.  4. 


Fig. 


length  to  find  the  centre.  Put  the  end  of  the  one  yard  piece 
under  the  centre  and  aUow  the  end  to  extend  four  inches  for 
the  fastening  of  the  scissors.  Braid  the  three  cords  together 
(see  Fig.  4)  to  within  six  inches  of  the  ends. 
In  braiding,  the  right  and  left 
hand  strand  in  turn  crosses  the 
centre  strand,  and  so  becomes  the 
centre  one  itself.  Make  a  half- 
hitch  with  one  strand  over  the 
other  two,  in  order  to  hold  it  in 
place  (see  Fig.  5).  Take  the  single 
cord  of  four  inches,  which  extend- 
ed above  the  braid,  pass  it  through 
one  ring  of  the  scissors  handle  and 
then  down  through  the  braid.  In  order  to  hold  it  very  se- 
curely a  few  stitches  may  be  taken  with  a  needle  and  thread. 
Any  suitable  article  may  be  substituted  for  the  scissors.  The 
price  of  this  model  depends  upon  the 
quahty  of  scissors. 

V.     The  Hofsc-Reins 

Materials. — Colored  Macrame  cord.  No. 
16,  5  yards. — White  Macrame  cord. 
No.  16,  5  yards.  Approximate  cost 
per    child 02 

Knot  the  ends  of  the  two  cords  together. 
Hokl  the  knot  and  throw  one  cord  around 
the  fingers  of  the  left  hand,  forming  a 
loop.  Pull  a  loop  of  this  cord  i)artly 
through  the  loop  thus  formed.  Through 
this  loop  draw  a  loop  of  the  contrasting 
color  cord,  and  draw  it  up  securely  by  pulling  the  end  of  the 
cord  previously  looped  (see  Fig.  6).  Continue  the  whole 
length  of  the  cords,  by  alternating  the  loops  of  color,  and 


Some  Uses  for  Cord  and  Str'nig 


11 


pulling  them  in  place  by  drawing  the  end  of 
the  contrasting  color. 

After  this  double  chain-stitch  has  been 
completed,  the  horse-reins  may  be  shaped  to 
form  the  cross-piece.  Make  a  circle  of  one- 
third  of  the  chain  by  running  the  end  of  the 
cord  in  and  out  of  the  chain.  Make  a  large 
circle  with  the  remaining  two-thirds  by  fast- 
ening the  end  six  inches  from  the  first  fast- 
ening on  the  small  circle  (see  Fig.  7). 

The  horse-reins  may  be   made  with  the 
single  loop  chain,  and  also  larger  in  size. 
They  may  be  dyed  any  attractive  color,  and 
if  made  of  a  heavy  cord  (No.  60)  and  trimmed  with  bells, 
may  be  used  by  the  children  for  Christmas  gifts. 


Fig.  7. 


VI.     Braided  Ties  for  Sailor  Suit 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  16,  12  yards.     Approximate 
cost  per  child 01 

Cut  the  twelve  yards  into  six  two-yard  pieces.  Three 
pieces  will  be  used  for  each  tie.  Lay  two  cords  evenly  to- 
gether.    Take  the  third  cord,  double  it  in  half,  and  loop  it 


V\c..  8. 


around  the  middle  of  cords  one  and  two  (Fig.  8).  Then 
begin  to  braid.  Each  strand  of  the  braid  is  composed  of  two 
cords.     In  making  a  thre(^  strand  braid,  the  right  and  left- 


12  Occupations  for  Little  F'mgei'S 

hand  strand  in  turn  crosses  the  centre  string  and  so  becomes 
the  centre  one  itself. 

The  second  tie  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way  and  used  on 
the  boys'  sailor  suits. 

The  children  may  also  make  ties  for  their  flower-presses. 
They  may  be  made  in  like  manner,  but  in  one  piece,  and  of 
sufficient  length  to  go  twice  around  the  press  and  tie. 

VII.     The  Overhand  Knot 

Plate  I,  No.  7,  shows  the  overhand  knot  and  its  use  and 
application  in  a  small  piece  of  netting.  The  cord  is  thrown  to 
either  the  right  or  left,  forming  a  loop,  and  the  end  of  the  cord 
is  drawn  through  it.  Two  cords  may  be  knotted  together 
with  this  knot,  as  shown  in  No.  7. 

VIII.     The  Square  or  Hard  Knot 

Plate  I,  No.  8,  shows  the  steps  to  be  followed  in  making  the 
square  knot.  The  two  ends  are  to  be  knotted  together. 
Cross  them  and  twist  the  upper  end  around  the  lower  cord, 
bringing  the  ends  up  in  position.  Cross  these  two  ends 
again,  having  the  original  upper  end  again  go  over  and  around 
the  end  it  crosses. 

This  knot  is  especially  useful  in  tying  bandages. 

IX.     The  Weaver's  Knot 

Plate  I,  No.  9,  if  carefully  studied,  will  reveal  the  method 
of  making  the  weaver's  knot.  It  is  the  knot  especially  used 
in  weaving,  and  is  strong  and  easily  made  after  some  practice. 

Cross  the  two  ends  at  right  angles.  For  convenience,  we 
will  call  one  the  old  end  and  the  other  the  new  piece  to  be 
joined  to  it.  Place  the  new  under  the  old  and  at  right  angles 
under  the  thumb.     Hold  them  sccurclv.     Pass  the  new  cord 


Some  Uses  for  Cord  (uid  String  13 

around  the  outline  of  the  thumb-nail  and  under  itself,  then 
over  the  old,  and  hold  it  under  the  thumb.  Pass  the  old  end 
through  the  loop  formed  by  the  new.  Hold  all  the  ends  and 
draw  up  the  knot  by  pulling  the  newly  added  cord. 

This  knot  is  too  difficult  for  very  young  children,  but  may 
be  given  to  the  older  ones. 


X.     The  Soft  Carria§:e-Whip 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  60,  4  yards.  Approximate 
cost  per  child 01 

Cut  the  cord  in  two  pieces  of  two  yards  each.  Cross  the 
two  at  right  angles  in  the  middle.  Tie  the  lower  cord  over 
the  upper  one  at  the  point  of  crossing,  using  the  single  tie  of 
the  square  knot.  Continue  to  build  up  the  whip  by  alternat- 
ing the  cords  tied,  one  above  the  other,  to  within  six  inches  of 
the  ends  of  the  cords.  One  inch  from  the  last  tie,  on  each 
cord,  make  a  single  overhand  knot.  Continue  knotting  at 
inch  intervals,  on  each  of  the  four  cords,  to  form  the  lash  of 
the  whip. 

XI.    The  Hammock 

Materials. — Iron  rings,  i-inch,  2. — Macrame  cord.  No.  16, 12 
yards. — Macrame  cord,  No.  60,  i  yard. — Macrame  cord, 
No.  6,  I  yard.     Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

Divide  the  twelve  yards  of  No.  16  cord  into  eight  pieces  of 
one  and  one-half  yards  each.  Double  each  strand  in  the 
middle  and  loop  the  eight  through  the  iron  ring  (see  Fig.  9). 
Four  inches  from  the  ring  start  the  knotting  to  form  a  mesh. 
The  overhand  knot  is  used  (see  Plate  I,  Fig.  7).  Take  the 
first  two  cords  in  the  right  hand,  throw  the  cords  in  a  circle 
to  the  left  and  draw  the  two  ends  through  it.  Continue 
across  the  hammock,  knotting  the  strands  in  order  and  by 
twos.  One  inch  from  the  first  row  of  knots  make  a  second 
row.     In  starting  it,  the  first  cord  is  omitted.     This  forms  the 


14 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


\ 


mesh.  On  the  third  row,  the  two  outside  strands  are  again 
knotted  in  place.  Continue  the  netting  for  eight  or  nine  rows. 
Gather  the  ends  together  and  shp  them  through  the  second  iron 
ring  and  bind  with  half  a  yard  of  the  fine  cord.  In  large 
hammocks,  where  there  is  to  be  some  strain,  the  ends  may 
each  in  turn  be  passed  around  the  ring  and  looped  w^ith  an 
overhand  knot  before  binding. 

To  bind:  Hold  the  net  of  the  hammock  in  the  left  hand. 
Take  one  end  of  the  fine  cord  in  the  right  hand,  and  place  the 
end  of  it  as  near  the  ring  as  possible  and  on  top  of  the  strands. 
Carry  the  fine  cord  toward  the  netting  for  one  inch  and  back 
again  toward  the  ring.  A  loop  will  thus 
be  formed.  Begin  to  bind  over  this  loop, 
working  from  the  ring  toward  the  net. 
When  all  the  cord  has  been  wound  evenly 
and  tightly  around  the  strands,  put  the 
end  through  the  loop  over  which  the  cord 
has  been  bound.  Take  the  first  end  of 
the  cord  extending  at  the  ring,  and  pull  it 
carefully.  The  loop  will  draw  the  cord 
under  the  binding  and  then  the  ends  may 
be  cut  off  close.  Care  must  be  taken  not 
to  pull  the  cord  all  the  way  through  or  the 
binding  will  be  loosened. 
Cut  the  heavy  cord  in  two  pieces.  Double  them  in  the 
middle  and  loop  one  piece  through  each  ring  (see  Fig.  9). 
Knot  the  two  ends  of  each  with  the  overhand  knot.  Half- 
way between  the  rings  and  the  ends  of  these  hangers  make 
another  overhand  knot  in  order  to  hold  the  cords  se- 
curely. 

Large  hammocks  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way  with  heavy 
cord  and  more  strands.  This  makes  very  good  work  for 
playgrounds  where  the  hammocks  arc  afterward  used  for  the 
babies. 


Fig.  9. 


PLATE  I 


i; 


CORD-WORK 

I. 

Curtain  cord. 

6. 

Ties  for  Sailor  Suit. 

12. 

Hammock. 

2. 

Lanyard."''' 

7- 

Overhand  knot. 

13- 

Whip. 

r 

Whistle  chain. 

8. 

Square  knot. 

14. 

Sailor's  knot. 

4- 

Scissors  guard. 

9- 

Weaver's  knot. 

5- 

Ueins. 

II. 

Soft  whip. 

16 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


XII.    The  Lash  Whip 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  i6,  lo  yards. — One  piece  of 
|-inch  rattan,  9  inches.    Approximate  cost  per  child.   .02 

From  the  length  of  cord  cut  off  six  yards  for  the  binding  of 
the  handle.  Divide  the  remaining  four  yards  into  eight  pieces 
of  half  a  yard  each.  The  eight  are  to  form  the  lash.  At  both 
ends  of  each  half-yard  piece  make  an  overhand  knot  close  to 
the  end.  From  each  knotted  end  work  toward  the  middle 
of  the  cord,  making  four  more  overhand  knots  at  one  and  one- 
half-inch  intervals.  There  will  be  a  space  of  three  inches 
left  in  the  middle  of  each  lash.  This  plain  part  is  bound  to 
the  handle. 

One-half  inch  from  the  end  of  the  rattan  handle  cut  a 
slight  groove.     Place  the  middle  of  each  lash  at  the  groove  , 

and  distribute  them  evenly 
around  the  handle.  Half  of 
the  knotted  lash  will  lie  along 
the  handle  and  the  other  half 
dangle  from  the  end.  Bind 
them  to  the  stick  with  the  fine 
cord  tied  in  the  groove.  After 
tying,  shake  the  lashes  down 
in  place,  and  start  to  cover  the 
handle  with  the  cord  binding. 
Handle:  Cut  the  six-yard 
length  of  cord  in  half.  Place 
one  piece  at  each  side  of  the 
handle,  with  one-inch  end  of 
each  piece  lying  on  top  of  the  lashes  and  the  ends  pointed 
away  from  them.  Bind  with  the  fine  cord.  The  lengths  will 
then  be  in  position  and  ready  for  working  over  the  rattan. 
The  first  inch  will  be  the  most  difficult,  for  it  is  necessary  to 
work  over  the  bound  lashes.  Using  the  stick  as  the  founda- 
tion, pass  the  left-hand  cord  over  the  stick,  so  it  lies  across 


Fig.  10. 


I  Some  Uses  for  Cord  and  String  17 

it.  Pass  the  right-hand  cord  over  the  end  of  the  left,  then 
under  the  stick  and  up  through  the  loop  formed  by  the  left- 
hand  cord  (see  Fig.  lo).  The  cord  will  twist  itself,  forming 
the  corkscrew  appearance.     Be  careful  to  keep  the  left-hand 

i  cord  on  top  of  the  stick  each  time,  for  it  is  upon  this  that  the 

I  twist  will  depend. 

The  handle  may  be  finished  by  holding  the  ends  of  cord  in 

I  place  with  a  gilt-head  tack  nailed  in  the  end  of  the  handle. 
A  loop  of  cord  or  a  braid  may  also  be  made  for  a  hanger. 

I  XIII.     The  Double  Sailor's  Knot 

^  Materials. — Corset-laces   or  cord.     (Number  dependent  on 
I  the  size  of  the  bag  desired.) 

This  knot  may  be  used  in  making  various  kinds  of  bags. 
Eighteen  laces  will  make  a  small  one.     A  foundation  cord 


Fig.  11. 

is  used  at  the  top  of  the  bag,  and  each  lace  is  doubled  and 
looped  around  it  (see  Fig.  9). 

Begin  with  two  strands,  one  from  each  two  groups.  Make 
a  loop  of  the  left-hand  one  and  lay  it  on  the  right-hand  strand. 
Hold  the  loop  in  place  while  the  right-hand  end  is  woven 
over  and  under  and  through  the  loop  of  the  left-hand  strand 
(Fig.  11). 


CHAPTER  III 

A   FEW    SUGGESTIONS    FOR    RAFFIA 

No  material  has  opened  up  a  larger  field  for  children's 
work  than  raffia.  It  is  a  tough,  strong,  yet  pliable  fibre, 
which  lends  itself  to  many  charming  uses.  Its  natural  color 
is  extremely  artistic,  and  its  properties  are  such  that  it  may 
be  readily  colored  in  many  beautiful  shades  by  the  use  of 
vegetable  dyes. 

Rafiha  is  imported  from  Madagascar,  and  is  the  outside 
covering  of  a  native  palm  which  grows  in  great  abundance  in 
that  climate.  The  gathering  and  exporting  of  the  fibre  gives 
employment  to  many  of  the  inhabitants,  both  men  and  women. 

In  the  following  chapter  will  be  given  a  few  of  its  uses, 
but  it  would  be  almost  impossible  to  describe  the  many 
articles  which  may  be  fashioned  from  a  bunch  of  raffia. 
Some  persons  prefer  to  work  with  rafitia  damp  or  wet,  but  as 
soaking  it  makes  it  swell,  it  has  been  found  that  the  best 
results  are  obtained  from  the  dry.  The  material  works 
better  if  it  is  used  from  the  large  end  toward  the  small,  as 
the  fibre  grows  that  way,  and  it  is  not  as  liable  to  rough  up. 

L     Brush  Broom  Holder 

Materials. — A  piece  of  stiff  [)aper,  4  x  gj  inches. — Several 
strands  of  raffia. — Tapestry  needle,  No.  18. — Thimble. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

Fold  the  paper  with  the  four-inch  sides  overlapping  one 
and  one-half  inches  at  the  bottom  and  just  meeting  at  the  top, 
and  sew.  This  forms  the  case  for  the  brush.  Take  a  wide 
strand  of  raffia  and  tie  one  end  around  the  foundation  case. 
Begin  winding  at  the  back  or  pieced  side.     Wind  over  and 

IS 


A  Fczv  Suggestions  for  RaJlhi  19 

over,  lapping  the  raffia  carefully,  until  the  paper  is  covered. 
The  raffia  will  have  to  be  pieced,  as  the  strands  are  not  very 
long;  tie  them  together  with  an  overhand  knot  and  hide  the 
knots  on  the  inside  of  the  case.  Make  a  braid  of  raffia,  using 
a  color  if  possible,  and  sew  it  around  the  top  and  bottom  for 
decoration.  Put  a  loop  of  the  braid  at  the  back  for  a  hanger. 
This  is  very  simple  work,  and  is  suitable  for  young  children. 

11.     Picture- Frame 

Materials. — Cardboard,  round  or  o\al. — Several  strands  of 
raffia.     Ap[)roxin"iate  cost  per  child o] 

Cut  the  cardboard  the  size  and  shape  desired.  From  the 
centre  cut  an  opening  the  same  shape,  allowing  an  inch  or 
one  and  one-half  inches  for  the  width  of  the  frame.  The 
largest  end  of  a  strand  of  raffia  is  brought  up  through  the  hole 
and  tied,  the  knot  being  placed  on  the  wrong  side.  The  end 
is  then  put  back  through  the  opening,  and  brought  up  through 
the  loop  formed  (see  Fig.  2).  This  is  done  closely  all  around 
the  frame.  When  a  new  strand  is  needed,  tie  it  to  the  old 
one,  using  an  overhand  or  square  knot.  Care  should  be 
taken  to  keej)  all  the  knots  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  frame. 
After  the  cardboard  is  filled,  the  edge  may  be  further  deco- 
rated by  placing  a  fancy  stitch  around  it,  or  a  braid  of  raffia. 
The  picture  may  be  sewed  in  by  the  children.  Raffia  may  be 
used,  and  a  loop  left  for  the  hanger.  If  a  neater  finish  is 
desired  a  piece  of  hea\-}-  paper  may  be  glued  or  sewed  on  the 
back  and  a  Dennison  hook  attached. 

III.     Napkin-Ring 

Materials. — 2  pieces  of  ]-inch  llat  s[)lint,  8  inches. — .Several 
strands  raffia. — Linen  thread,  No.  60. — Tapestrv  needle. 
No.  20. — Sloyd  knives.     Approximate  cost  per  child .   .01 

Cut  the  two  pieces  of  splint  exactly  the  same  length. 
Notch  the  ends  and  lap  about  an  inch,  and  tie  firmly  with 


PLATE    II 


RAH  lA 


I.   Umbrella. 

7.  I'icture-frame. 

8.  Picture-frame. 


9.  Splint  and  raffia  mat. 
10.   Kcodle-book. 
12.  Napkin-ring. 


13.    Hats. 

16.  Broom  holder. 

17.  Solomon's  knot  bag. 


A  Few  Suggestions  for  Uaffia 


21 


the  linen  thread;  be  careful  to  have  both 
circles  the  same  size.  Tie  a  piece  of  raffia  to 
one  circle  and  blanket-stitch,  the  same  as  the 
frame.  Cover  the  other  circle  in  like  manner. 
In  order  to  finish  the  blanket- 
stitch  neatly,  thread  the  finish- 
ing end  into  No.  20  tapestry 
needle,  and  bring  the  end 
through  the  first  stitch.  Fit 
the  two  circles  together  with 
the  edge  of  the  stitch  to  the 
outside,  and  catch  them  to- 
gether, using  any  fancy  stitch 
which  the  children  know. 
Feather-stitch  and  catch-stitch 
lend  themselves  nicely  to  this  work  (see  Fig.  12).  The  rings 
may  also  be  made  of  a  single  circle,  in  which  case  use  two 
colors  and  make  a  stitch  first  with  one,  then  with  the  other, 
keeping  the  two  ends  out  on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  splint 
(see  Fig.  13). 


Fig.  12. 


IV.    Needle-Book 

Materials. — 2  circles  of  cardboard,  2%  inches  in  diameter. — 
Several  strands  of  raffia. — 2  circles  of  white  flannel,  2 
inches     in     diameter.  —  Tapestry 
needles,  No.  19. — Thimbles.    Ap- 
proximate cost  per  child 01 

Cut  the  two  circles  from  light- 
weight cardboard  or  Bristol  board, 
and  make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of 
each.  Thread  the  needle  with  a 
strand  of  raffia,  and  bring  it  up 
through  the  hole  in  the  centre;  tie 
the  end  to  hold  it.  Blanket-stitch 
it  in  the  same  way  as  the  picture- 


FiG.  13. 


22  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

frame,  using  a  needle  to  pass  the  raflla  through  the  centre  of 
the  card.  Blanket-stitch  both  circles,  and  fasten  them  to- 
gether at  one  side,  catching  in  leaves  of  flannel  at  the  same 
time.  These  leaves  may  be  pinked,  or  finished  with  an  even 
or  uneven  blanket-stitch.  Two  braids  for  tying  the  book 
may  be  made  of  the  raffia  and  fastened  to  the  circles  opposite 
where  they  are  caught  together. 

V*     Rain-Coat  and  Hat 

Materials. — Raffia.     Approximate  cost  per  child oi 

These  primitive  rain-coats  are  still  worn  by  the  coolies  in 
some  parts  of  Japan  and  other  warm  countries.  If  the 
children  are  studying  primitive  life,  they  will  find  the  making 
of  these  little  garments  most  interesting.  The  large  coats  are 
made  of  a  sort  of  grass  which  is  so  thick  that  it  serves  the  same 
purpose  as  a  thatched  roof. 

Take  a  piece  of  raffia  about  ten  inches  long,  and  tie  on 
thirty-two  double  pieces  of  raffia  about  twelve  inches  long. 
These  are  tied  on  by  doubling  them  in  the  centre  and  putting 
the  loop  under  the  main  piece  and  pulling  the  ends  up  through 
the  loop  (see  Fig.  9).  After  these  are  all  tied,  take  one 
strand  from  each  pair  of  knots  and  tie  them  together  with  an 
overhand  knot  about  one  inch  from  the  first  row.  Then  tie 
one  string  from  each  knot  together,  leaving  out  the  first  and 
last  ones.  Continue  this  for  four  or  five  rows,  forming  meshes 
(see  Hammock,  in  Cord  Work),  leaving  out  the  first  and  last 
string  each  time.  If  the  children  know  how  to  braid,  a  fine 
three-strand  braid  may  be  used  in  place  of  the  foundation 
strand  of  raffia.  The  ends  of  this  braid  form  the  ties  which 
hold  the  coat  in  place  around  the  neck.  The  hat  is  made  by 
taking  fourteen  strands  of  raffia  and  tying  them  together  at 
the  top  to  form  the  point  of  the  hat.  Divide  into  groups  of 
two  strands  each.  Take  a  piece  of  raffia,  double  it  in  the 
centre  and  place  it  around  one  group,  bringing  both  ends 


PL  ATI-:    III 


2,1 


2.  Splint  aiul  raffia  mat. 

3.  String  ball. 


R.AlllA 


4.  SirinK  ball. 

5.  Braided  mat. 


6.  liraided  basket 

7.  Coiled  basket. 


14.  Shopping  bag. 

15.  Uain  coat  and  hat. 


24 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingei^s 


Fig.  14. 


toward  you.  Take  the  left-hand  end,  bring  it  over  the  right, 
in  front  of  the  first  group  and  back  of  the  next  and  out ;  then 
the  other  end  is  brought  over  and  under  the  next  group  and 

out  in  front.  This  is  called 
pairing  (see  Fig.  14).  This  is 
done  for  two  rows;  then  a  new 
group  is  inserted  between  every 
three  groups.  Weave  three  rows 
of  pairing,  then  leave  a  half-inch 
space;  make  another  row  of 
pairing,  inserting  a  new  group, 
between  each  two  of  the  old 
ones.  Continue  pairing,  spac- 
ing one-half  inch  apart,  and  taking  one  strand  from  each 
group  and  weaving  them  together  (see  Fig.  15)  for  three 
rows.  The  border  or  finish  is 
made  in  the  following  manner: 
Take  each  group  and  place  it 
under  the  next  group  to  the 
right  and  up ;  do  this  all  around 
the  hat,  the  last  group  passes 
through   the   loop    formed    by  pj^, 

the  first.     The  second   row  is 

made  like  the  first,  with  the  exception  that  the  groups  are 
brought  under  the  first  group  to  the  right,  and  down  instead 
of  up.     Cut  off  the  ends,  leaving  about  one  inch. 


15. 


VI.     Umbrella 

Materials. — ;}-inch  flat  splint,  4  pieces,  4  inches  in  length. — 
No.  2  rattan,  i  piece,  9  inches. — A  few  strands  of  raffia. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

Cross  the  four  splints  in  the  centre  (see  Fig.  16).  Take  a 
strand  of  raffia,  double  it  and  slip  it  around  the  back  splint. 
Use  paired  weaving  (see  Fig.  14),  and  when  the  mat  is  two 


A  Few  Snggt\stio)isfor  Raffia 


25 


Fig.   16. 


inches  in  diameter,  begin  to  draw 
the  weavers  a  httle  tighter  to  make 
the  curve  of  the  umbrella.  Con- 
tinue weaving  until  it  is  three 
inches  in  diameter.  Thread  the 
ends  of  the  weaver  into  a  tapestry 
needle  and  draw  them  into  the 
weaving.  Cut  the  ends  of  the 
splints  in  points.  Take  the  piece 
of  nine-inch  rattan,  push  one  end 
through  the  under  centre  splint. 
Double  so  that  the  ends  meet,  and  wind  with  raffia  to  form 
the  handle. 

VII.     Splint  and  Raffia  Mat 

Materials. — ^-inch  flat  splint,  8  pieces,  6  inches. — Several 
strands  of  raffia. — Tapestry  needle,  No.  29.  Ap- 
proximate cost  per  child 01 

This  mat  is  started  in  the  same  way  as  the  umbrella. 
After  working  once  around  insert  the  four  extra  spokes,  one 
at  a  time,  between  the  original  four  (see  Fig.  17).  Con- 
tinue with  paired  weaving,  being  careful  to  have  the  spokes 

succeed  each  other  in  regu- 
lar order.  Allow  the  mat  to 
lie  flat,  and  when  within  one 
inch  of  the  end  of  the  spokes 
fasten  the  weavers.  Soak 
the  ends  of  the  splint  in 
water  for  a  short  time  to 
make  them  pliable.  Turn 
them  over  and  push  them 
down  into  the  weaving.  The 
edge  may  be  finished  in  a 
number  of  ways.  Thread 
a    tapestry   needle   with    a 


26 


Occupafions  for  Little  Fiugers 


strand  of  raffia.  Make  a  slanting  stitch  all  around  the  edge; 
turn,  and  work  the  other  way,  crossing  each  stitch  made  in 
the  first  row.  The  blanket-stitch  may  also  be  used  (see 
Fig.  2).  It  is  well  to  let  the  children  use  their  own  ideas, 
as  far  as  possible,  about  finishing  the  edge. 


VIIL     String  Ball 

Materials. — 18  strands  of  raffia,  plain  and  colored. — i  small 
brass  ring. — i  ball  of  colored  twine.  x'Vpproximate  cost 
per  child 06 

Take  nine  strands  of  plain  raffia  and  nine  of  colored. 
Double  each  strand  and  slip  it  on  the  ring  in  the  same  way  as 
in  making  the  hammock  (see  Fig.  9).  Care  should  be  taken 
to  put  the  loop  through  the  ring  in  the  same  direction  each 
time,  also  to  alternate  the  colors.  After  all  the  strands  are 
looped  on  the  ring,  take  one  string  of  each 
color  from  e\'ery  pair  and  knot  together, 
using  an  overhand  knot  (sec  Fig.  18).  The 
knots  should  be  placed  one  inch  from  the 
ring.  Tie  all  the  strings  together  in  this 
manner.  In  knotting  the  second  row  take 
the  same  colors  and  tie  them  together  to 
form  the  mesh,  spacing  the  knots  about 
one  and  one-half  inches  below  the  first 
row.  The  third  row  should  be  like  the 
first,  and  the  fourth  like  the  second.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  keep  the  cok)rs  in 
stripes  as  it  makes  a  much  more  attractive  bag.  Continue 
this  until  the  bag  is  long  enough  to  fit  the  ball  of  twine. 
The  top  of  the  bag  may  l)e  finished  in  a  number  of  ways, 
such  as  braiding  the  ends  of  the  strands,  and  tying  them 
together  at  the  top  with  a  loop  for  hanger.  It  is  well  to 
let  the  children  use  their  own  ideas  about  the  finisli  at  the 
top,  only  remember  that  there  must  be  space  enough  left  in 


Fig.  is. 


A  Few  Suggestion.^  for  Raffia 


27 


order  to  slip  in  the  ball  of  twine.  The  end  of  the  twine  should 
come  from  the  centre  of  the  ball  and  fall  through  the  ring 
at  the  bottom  of  the  bag. 

Another  way  of  starting  the  bag  is  to  make  a  stirrup  (or 
loop)  of  raffia  and  knot  the  strands  on  this.  The  knots  arc 
tied  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  first  bag,  but  the  finish  is 
different.  The  strands  are  all  fastened  together  at  the  bottom 
of  the  bag  instead  of  at  the  top,  and  the  stirrup  replaced  by  a 
braid  of  raffia  for  drawing  up  the  bag  and  serving  as  a  hanger. 


IX.     Bag  of  Solomon's  Knots 

Materials. — Plain    raffia,    17    strands. — Colored    raffia,    17 
strands.     Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

The  knot  for  this  bag  is  a  little  more  difficult  than  the  pre- 
ceding one,  therefore  it  is  better  work  for  older  children. 
Four  strands  are 
needed,  two  to  act 
as  the  foundation 
cords  and  the  other 
two  to  form  the 
knot.  Tie  the 
thirty-four  strands 
of  raffia  on  to  a  stir- 
rup, the  same  as  in 
the  string  bag,  two 
colors  in  each  knot, 
making  seventeen 
groups  in  all.  Take  two  groups  and  bring  the  two  inside 
strands  together  and  hold  them.  Bring  the  left-hand  strand 
down  and  over  the  foundation  strands,  the  right-hand  strand 
down  over  the  end  of  the  left  hand,  under  the  foundation 
and  up  through  the  looj:)  formed  by  the  first  (see  Fig.  19). 
This  forms  half  of  the  knot.  The  second  step  is  like  the 
first,  but  the  right-hand  strand  is  brought  down  first  over  the 


Fig.  19. 


28  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

foundation,  the  left-hand  one  down  over  the  end  of  the  right, 
under  the  foundation,  and  up  through  the  loop.  This  knot 
is  really  a  square  knot  tied  over  the  foundation  cord.  A  row 
of  these  knots  is  tied  all  around  the  bag,  about  one  inch  from 
the  top.  In  the  second  row  leave  out  the  first  two  strands  and 
take  two  from  each  group,  tying  them  to  form  meshes.  Space 
the  knots  about  one  inch  apart,  being  careful  to  keep  the  colors 
in  stripes.  The  third  row  is  hke  the  first.  Continue  with  the 
meshes  until  the  bag  is  the  desired  depth.  Fasten  together  at 
the  bottom  by  tying  the  strands  from  the  two  sides  together  in 
groups  of  knots,  using  eight  instead  of  four.  Bars  may  be 
made  by  tying  several  knots  on  the  same  foundation.  A  pretty 
finish  is  made  by  putting  several  knots  on  the  same  foundation, 
but  instead  of  placing  first  the  right-hand  one  over  and  then 
the  left,  using  the  same  hand  each  time.  This  alternates  the 
colors  and  makes  the  bar  twist.  Fringe  out  the  raffia  at  the 
ends  of  the  bars.  These  bars  may  be  put  in  the  body  of 
the  bag  for  decoration.  Finish  at  the  top  with  a  braid  of 
raffia.  A  little  bag  of  silk  or  cotton  may  be  placed  inside 
and  drawn  up  with  ribbons. 

X.    Coiled  Baskets 

Materials. — Raffia,    plain    and    colored. — Tapestry    needle, 
No.  19. — Thimble.     Approximate  cost  per  child. . .   .02 

Take  enough  strands  of  raffia  to  make  a  coil  about  the  size 
of  the  finger.  Begin  at  the  large  end  and  wind  with  a  strand 
of  colored  raffia,  spacing  about  one-half  inch  apart.  When 
the  coil  begins  to  get  small  add  new  strands  to  keep  the  size 
uniform.  To  piece  the  colored  raffia  tie  the  new  strand  to  the 
old  with  an  overhand  knot,  winding  down  the  ends  to  make  it 
as  neat  as  possible.  Have  the  children  wind  two  or  three 
yards  and  then  tie  the  end  of  the  winding  strand  to  hold  it  in 
place  before  beginning  to  sew.  Thread  a  piece  of  the  plain 
raffia  in  the  tapestry  needle.     Start  from  the  large  end  of  the 


A  Few  Suggestions  for  llajjia 


20 


coil,  curve  it  around  in  as  small  a  circle  as  possible,  and  fasten 
with  two  or  three  stitches  (see  Fig.  20a).  Begin  sewing  with 
the  pointed  stitch  (see  Fig.  2oi)  taking  it 
through  the  old  coil  into  the  new.  The 
basket  may  be  made  in  any  shape.  It  is 
well  to  ha\'e  the  children  draw  a  design  of 
it   before    they  start  work.     The    shaping 

depends  on    the 

y    Nv     /    \    /     angle    at    which 

the  coil  is  laid. 

a  0 

Pjf,   20  ■'■^  finishing,  the 

end  is  sewed 
down  on  the  inside  of  the  basket,  or  brought  over  the  top  to 
the  opposite  side  to  form  a  handle.  This  basket  is  very 
simple,  easy  work,  and  is  suitable  for  young  children. 


XI.     Braided  Basket 

Materials. — Raffia. — Tapestry    needle,    No.    19. — Thimble. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

Three-strand  braiding  has  been  described  in  the  chapter  on 
Cord  Work  under  "Ties  for  Sailor  Suits."  Raffia  braided  in 
this  style  lends  itself  to  many  attractive  articles.  A  three- 
strand  braid  is  made,  using  three  or  four  pieces  of  raffia  in 
each  strand  of  the  braid.  As  the  raffia  is  not  the  same  size 
the  whole  of  its  length,  it  is  necessary  to  piece  it  when  it 
becomes  thin.  This  is  done  by  laying  in  a  new  strand  where 
the  old  one  is  growing  thin  and  braiding  it  in.  After  the 
braid  is  finished,  these  rough  ends  may  be  clipped  off.  Make 
about  five  yards  of  braid  and  then  begin  the  sewing.  Thread 
the  tapestry  needle  with  a  strand  of  raffia,  wind  the  be- 
ginning of  the  braid  several  times  and  take  one  stitch  through 
to  fasten  it.  Begin  coiling,  in  the  same  way  as  in  the  first 
basket  described,  holding  the  braid  on  edge  instead  of  flat. 
Take  several  stitches  through  to  hold  it  firmly;  then  sew  with 


30 


Occupations  for  Little  Fhigers 


the  same  pointed  stitch  as  described  under  the  coiled  basket. 
Keep  the  braid  on  edge,  and  continue  until  the  bottom  is 
about  three  inches  in  diameter.  Begin  building  up  the 
sides  by  laying  each  row  outside  of  the  former  one,  and  lapping 
to  about  the  centre.  These  braids  will  also  have  to  be  held 
at  an  angle  to  the  bottom  to  make  the  sides  flare  as  they  should. 
When  wdthin  three  or  four  inches  of  the  top  a  pattern  may 
be  introduced  in  the  following  manner:  Make  one  strand  of 
the  braid  of  colored  raffia,  and  continue  braiding  until  you 
have  enough  for  three  rows  around  the  basket;  then  make 
two  strands  of  color  for  three  rows  more,  then  the  whole 
braid  of  color  for  three  row^s.  This  decoration  may  be  put 
in  the  centre  of  the  basket  in  the  same  way,  if  desired. 

The  finish  at  the  top  is  made 
by  sewing  down  the  end  of  the 
braid  firmly  on  the  inside. 

XIL    Braided  Mat 

Materials. — Rafiia,  plain  and 
colored. — Tapestry  nee- 
dle, No,  19. — Thimble. 
Approximate  cost  per 
child 02 

The  principle  of  the  mat 
is  the  same  as  in  the  preced- 
ing basket.  Make  a  three- 
strand  braid,  using  plain  and 
colored  raffia,  with  two  pieces  in  each  strand  of  the  braid. 
Start  it  in  the  same  way  as  the  braided  basket,  holding  the 
braid  on  edge,  and  sew  until  the  mat  is  the  size  desired,  four 
or  five  inches  in  diameter.  Then  make  the  border  around 
the  edge,  forming  the  braid  in  points  or  rings  (see  Fig.  21). 
This  mat  will  take  from  five  to  eight  yards  of  braiding,  ac- 
cording to  size.  Finish  by  sewing  the  end  down  firmly  on 
the  under  side. 


Fig.  21. 


A  Feiv  Suggestions  for  RaJjUt  31 


XIII.     Doll's  Hat 

Materials. — Raftia,  plain  and  colored.— Tapestry  needle,  No. 
19. — Thimble.     Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

A  four-  or  live-strand  braid  may  be  used  for  this,  or,  if 
given  to  young  children,  one  of  three  strands.  Four-strand 
braids  arc  made  in  much  the  same  as  one  of  three,  with  the 
exception  that  one  outside  strand  goes  over  the  next  and 
to  the  centre,  and  the  other  outside  one  under  the  next  and  to 
the  centre.  This  principle  holds  with  all  even-numbered 
braiding,  while  in  the  uneven  the  outside  strands  always  go 
over  the  next  and  toward  the  centre.  If  one  keeps  in  mind 
the  principle  of  weaving,  braiding  with  any  number  of  strands 
will  be  comparatively  easy.  The  little  hat  is  started  the  same 
as  the  basket,  but  the  braid  is  laid  flat  instead  of  on  the  side. 
Form  the  top  of  the  crown  first,  then  the  side  crown  by  placing 
the  braid  at  right  angles  to  the  top.  The  brim  is  made  by 
placing  the  braid  at  right  angles  to  the  side  crown.  The 
children  should  have  an  idea  of  what  shape  they  are  to  make 
the  hat,  and  what  the  size  of  the  crown  is  to  be,  before  they 
start  sewing.  The  trimming  may  be  done  with  colored 
raftia  or  ribbon.  These  hats  take  about  five  yards  of  braid. 
Hats  for  the  children  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner; 
they  take  about  one  pound  of  raffia,  and  require  about  twelve 
yards  of  braid. 

XIV,     Shopping-Bag: 

Materials. — A  bunch  of  raflia. — Rattan,  No.  4,  2  pieces,  15 
inches. —  Brass  rings,  2. — Netting-needle. — ^lesh-stick. 
— Ap])roximate  cost  per  child 02 

This  work  will  be  found  too  difiicult  for  young  children, 
but  is  interesting  to  boys  and  girls  of  ten  or  twelve. 

The  first  step  is  to  wind  the  netting-needle.  Tie  fifteen 
or  more  strands  of  raftia  together  to  form  long  strings.     Try 


32 


Occupation.s  for  Little  Fhigers 


to  select  strands  that  are  of  an  even  size.  Begin  to  wind, 
holding  the  end  with  the  thumb  until  it  is  fastened  down. 
The  raffia  is  brought  around  one  of  the  points  at  the  bottom, 
and  carried  up  to  the  tongue  at  the  top,  where  it  is  passed 
around  it  in  the  opposite  direction  from  where  it  started.  If 
it  starts  on  the  left-hand  side  of  the  needle,  it  passes  around 
the  tongue  from  right  to  left,  so  that  each  winding  crosses 
the  preceding  one.  Fill  the  needle  as  full  as  possible.  Make 
a  stirrup  of  raffia  and  tie  the  end  from  the  netting-needle  to  it 
with  an  overhand  knot  about  one  inch  from  the  stirrup. 
Hold  the  mesh-stick  in  the  left  hand  between  the  thumb  and 

first  finger  (see  Fig. 
22),  and  the  needle  in 
the  right  hand.  Bring 
the  raffia  over  the 
mesh-stick,  around  it 
and  up  through  the ; 
loop  of  the  stirrup. 
Carry  it  down  to  the 
stick  again,  and  hold 
it  with  the  thumb. 
Throw  the  raffia  to 
the  left  and  bring  the 
needle  up  through  the 
loop  formed  (see  Fig.  22).  Cast  on  fourteen  stitches  in  this 
way.  SHp  out  the  mesh-stick,  turn  the  work  over,  and  begin 
the  second  row.  This  is  made  hke  the  first,  the  needle  pass- 
ing up  through  the  loops  formed  by  the  first  row  of  stitches. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  tie  the  knot  over  the  loop  and  not  to 
let  it  slip  below,  as  the  netting  will  not  then  be  firm  (see 
Fig.  22).  Make  nineteen  rows  of  netting,  fasten  the  end 
and  take  out  the  stirrup. 

Bend  the  two  pieces  of  rattan  with  the  ends  meeting  in  the 
centre.  Braid  two  three-strand  braids  eleven  inches  long  and 
run  them  through  the  meshes  in  order  to  draw  up  the  bag  at 


Fig.  22. 


A  Few  Suggesth))is  for  linffin  33 

the  sides.     Blanket-stitch  the  rings.     Wind  one  curved  end  of 
rattan  with  raffia  for  about  an  inch.     Insert  the  end  of  the 
braid  which  has  been  put  through  one  ring  between  the  two 
pieces,  and  wind  down.     Wind  over  the  double  rattan,  keeping 
it  flat,  and  catch  in  each  loop  of  the  netting  at  regular  intervals. 
When  one  inch  frorn  the  other  end  put  in  the  second  braid 
and  ring  and  wind  to  the  end  of  the  rattan.     The  end  of 
raffia  is  fastened  by  running  it  into  the  winding.     Run  the 
long  end  of  the  braid  through  the  loops  at  the  side  of  the  netting 
and  finish  the  other  end  of  the  bag  in  the  same  way  as  the  first. 
J  The  handles  are  made  of  heavy  three-strand  braids  about 
weight  inches  long.     These  are  fastened  into  the  rings  in  the 
:  same  manner  as  the  strings  of  the  hammock  are  bound  (see 
I  Hammock,  Chapter  II).     This  same  netting  may  be  done 
with  cord  and  made  into  a  number  of  articles,  such  as  but- 
terfly-nets, school-bags,  etc. 


CHAPTER  IV 

COARSE    SEWING 

Coarse  sewing  has  been  introduced  into  some  of  the  grade 
schools  as  one  of  the  forms  of  manual  training.  Educators 
have  realized  for  some  time  that  the  line  sewing  and  finely 
pricked  cards  of  former  years  were  not  suited  to  the  adjust- 
ments which  it  is  possible  for  young  children  in  the  kinder- 
garten and  early  grades  to  make.  In  the  study  of  primitive 
races,  one  notices  the  crudity  of  their  early  tools  and  efforts. 
Children  in  the  same  way,  in  learning  the  early  control  of 
their  muscles,  will  begin  in  a  very  crude  manner  and  will 
have  much  difficulty  in  using  tools. 

The  cardboard  sewing  of  a  very  simple  character  may 
precede  the  canvas  work.  Scope  should  be  given  for  creative 
thought  in  the  decoration  of  the  work  and  in  planning  for  its 
use.  Color,  design,  and  the  relation  of  hne  to  space  are 
incidentally  taught.  The  fact  that  it  is  of  use  and  finds  a 
place  in  the  life  and  thought  of  the  child  should  be  its  excuse 
for  being — if  an  excuse  were  necessary.  Kindergarten  cards 
may  be  used  for  this  purpose  or,  if  large  articles  are  to  be 
made,  the  Bristol  board  may  be  purchased  by  the  sheet.  In 
the  cardboard  sewing,  the  teacher  should  aim  to  have  the 
designs  carried  out  in  long  stitches. 

For  the  canvas  work,  burlap,  basket  burlap,  Java  canvas  or 
burlap  canvas  may  be  used,  the  burlap  being  the  most  inex- 
pensive material  for  large  classes.  In  the  canvas  work  the 
children  learn  easily  the  form  of  the  stitches  which  in  later 
vears  are  applied  in  the  fine  sewing.     There  is  also  much 


I 


Coarse  Sewing  35 

scope  in  this  work  for  the  leaching  of  harmony  of  color  and 
design. 

Raffia,  either  in  plain  or  color,  makes  an  inexpensive  and 
effective  material  for  decoration.  Germantown  wool  or 
Poseidon  cotton  may  also  be  used.  San  silk  materially  re- 
duces the  cost,  but  is  not  so  attractive. 


CARDBOARD   SEWING 

I.     Pen-wiper 

Materials. — Kindergarten  cards,  5  x  5  inches. — Wool  or 
Poseidon  cotton,  h  skein. — Tapestry  needles.  No.  19  or 
No.  20. — Pricking-pad  and  needle. — Chamois  or  flannel, 
4  X  4  inches.     Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

Have  a  pattern  pricked  on  the  cards,  the  simpler  the  better. 
Begin  with  a  knot  and  join  the  holes  with  long  stitches;  if 
the  pattern  can  be  followed  on  the  back  and  face  of  the  card, 
the  work  is  more  satisfactory.  Work  two  cards  alike,  and 
join  them  together  at  one  side,  placing  two  leaves  of  chamois 
between.  As  far  as  possible  let  the  children  use  their  own 
ideas  about  fastening. 

Needle-books  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner,  by  placing 
two  leaves  of  pinked  flannel  between  in  place  of  chamois. 
The  size  of  the  cards  may  vary. 

11.  Blotter 

Materials. — Bristol  board.— Wool  or  Poseidon  cotton,  |  skein. 
— Tapestry  needles.  No.  19  or  No.  20. — Pricking-pad 
and  needle. — Blotting-paper.  Approximate  cost  per 
child 02 

After  a  simple  pattern  has  been  pricked  on  the  card,  it  may 
be  sewed  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  pen-wiper.  Place  the 
blotting-paper,  which  is  of  the  same  size  as  the  card,  under  it, 
and  sew  at  the  corners  with  a  small  cross-stitch. 


36 


PLATE    IV 


COARSE   SEWING 


1.  Needle-bouk. 

2.  r.lotter. 

4.  Napkin-ring. 


5.  Hair-receiver. 

6.  Pencil-case. 

7.  IJlolter  corner^ 


8.  Letter-case. 
g.  Iron-luilder 
10.   liook-cover. 


IT.  Table-cover. 

15.  Pin-ball. 

16.  Bag. 


Coarse  Sciutig 


37 


III.     Match-scratcher 

Materials. — Kindergarten  cards,  5x5  inches. — Wool  or 
Poseidon  cotton,  ^  skein. — Tapestry  needles,  No.  19  or 
No.  20. — Pricking-pad  and  needle. — Sand-paper,  2x3 
inches.     Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

The  design  for  the  match-scratcher  may  be  made  on  the 
upper  part  of  the  card,  then  pricked  and  sewed.  Glue  the 
sand-i)aper  on  the  lower  por- 
tion so  that  it  is  in  the  right 
relation  to  the  space  above. 

rV.     Napkin-Ring: 

Materials.  —  Burlap  canvas, 
8x2  inches. — Wool  or 
Poseidon  cotton,  ^  skein. 
— Thimbles. — Needles. — 
Tapestry,  No.  19  or  No. 
20.  Approximate  cost  per 
child 01 

Round  evenly  one  end  of  the 
strip:  this  will  be  the  lap  in 
the  finished  ring.  With  an  irregular  blanket-stitch  (see 
Fig.  23)  work  around  all  four  sides  to  prevent  it  from  fraying. 
Lap  the  round  end  o\er  the  square  about  one  inch  and  sew 
through  the  two  thicknesses  with  a  decorative  stitch.  The 
initial  of  the  child  makes  an  interesting  finish  and  serves  as  a 
means  of  distinguishing  one  from  another  at  table. 


Fig.  23. 


V.     Hair-Receiver 

Materials. — Burlap  canvas,  5^  x  5^  inches. — Poseidon  cotton, 
\  skein. — Needles,  tapestry, No.  19  or  No.  20. — Thimbles. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

Carefully  blanket-stitch  three  sides  of  the  square  (see  Fig. 
24).     Fold  the  side  next  to  the  unfinished  side  over  the  rough 


38 


OcciipdtioHsfor  Little  F'nigcrs 


edge  and  tack  in  three  or  four  places  with  small  stitches.  A 
loo})  of  the  cotton  may  be  put  through  the  pointed  top  and 
tied  in  a  small  bow. 


This  serves  as  a  hanger. 


VL     Pencil-Case 

Materials. — Burlap  canvas,  13x2^  inches. 


^  skein 


Fig.  24. 


-Poseidon  cotton, 
Needles,  tapestry. 
No.  19  or  No.  20. — Thim- 
bles.   Approximate  cost  per 
child 0O2 

Round  evenly  both  ends 
of  the  strip.  Fold  one 
round  end  over  to  within 
two  inches  of  the  other. 
Pin  carefully  and  blanket- 
stitch  the  edges.  A  simple 
running  stitch  (see  Fig.  25) 
may  be  used  as  ornamentation  through  the  middle  of  the 
case,  but  must 
be  put  on  be- 
fore the  ma- 
terial is  fold-  ■  *■'  V^  <^ES5s»^  K:>^^'^-s'-i 
ed.  If  the 
running  stitch 
is  taken 
through  the 
two  thick- 

nesscs,  it  will  divide  the  case  for  two  pencils.     If  no  division 
is  made,  the  case  may  be  used  as  a  tooth-brush  holder. 


I 


Fig.  21 


VII.     Blotter-Corners 


'I    inches. 


Materials. — 4   pieces    of   burlap    canvas,    4',  x  2; 

Poseidon  cotton,  i  skein.    Approximate  cost  per  child.  .02 

Blanket-stitch  the  four  sides  of   the  strip  (see  Fig.  24). 


Coarse  Sewing 


39 


Fold  the  ends  together  to 
meet  the  long  side,  thus 
forming  a  tent  shape.  With- 
in this  triangle,  which  will 
appear  on  the  upper  side  of 
the  blotter,  make  some 
simple  ornamentation  with 
the  cross-stitch  (see  Fig. 
26).  This  can  be  done  be- 
fore the  ends  are  tacked  together  on  the  under  side, 
canvas  on  the  corners  of  a  large  blotter  and  tack. 


Fk;.  2(i. 


Slip  the 


VIIL     Letter-Case 

Materials. — Burlap  canvas,  6^  x  15  inches. — Poseidon  cotton, 
i^  skeins. — Crewel  needle,  No.  i  or  No.  2. — Thimbles. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 08 

Decide  on  a  decoration  which  may  take  the  form  of  a  border 
across  the  ends  or  around  the  whole  case  (see  Fig.  27).  Use 
the  cross-stitch  and  the  running  or  back  stitching  in  com- 
bination.    Put  an  even  or  uneven  blanket-stitch  across  the 

ends  (see  Figs. 
23  and  24).  Fold 
the  ends  to  with- 
in one-half  inch 
of  the  centre, 
pin,  and  blanket- 
stitch  the  sides 
through  the  two 
thicknesses.  Fin- 
ish with  a  cord 
and  tassel  made 
of  Poseidon  cot- 
ton tied  on  at 
Fig.  27.  the  centre. 


40  Occupntions  for  Little  Fingers 

Cord. — This  is  made  by  taking  two  strands  of  cotton  and 
twisting  them.  Let  two  children  work  together,  one  twisting 
each  way,  double  this  cord  in  the  centre,  and  twist  together. 
Place  a  knot  one  inch  from  each  end  and  fringe. 


IX.  Iron-Holder 

Materials. — Basket  burlap,  12x4  inches  and  6x1  inches. — 

Poseidon  cotton,  i  skein. 
— Crewel  needle.  No.  2. — 
Thimble.  Approximate 
cost  per  child 04 

Place  the  design  in  cross- 
stitch  about  two  inches 
down  from  each  end  of 
the  twelve-inch  strip  (see 
Fig.  28).  Two  colors  may 
be  used  effectively.  Finish 
the  four-inch  ends  with  an 
Pj^^  28  uneven  blanket-stitch,  fold 

them  together  evenly  and 
continue  the  stitch  at  the  sides.  Finish  the  edges  of  the 
narrow  strip  in  like  manner,  double  and  fasten  it  at  the 
upper  left  corner  for  the  hanger.  Slip  a  piece  of  thin  asbestos 
inside  the  case. 

X.  Book-Cover 

Materials. — Basket  burlap,  6h  x  io\  inches. — Poseidon  cotton, 
2  skeins. — Crewel  needles,  No.  2.  Approximate  cost 
per  child 07 

Fold  the  burlap  to  find  the  centre  of  the  longest  side;  this 
will  form  the  front  of  the  cover.  Place  a  simple  design  in 
the  centre,  using  the  cross-stitch  (see  Fig.  26),  or  a  border 
made  with  a  combination  of  the  running-stitch,  cross-stitch 
or  back-stitch.     Letters  mav  also  be  used  worked  with  cross- 


Coarse  Serving 


41 


stitch.  Finish  the  edge  with  an  even  blanket-stitch,  and  tie 
in  several  sheets  of  paper  to  form  the  leaves,  using  a  cord 
and  tassels.  These  books  may  be  used  for  notes,  recipes, 
scrap-books,  etc. 

Magazine-covers  may  be  made  in  the  same  way.  Find 
the  dimensions  and  place  one  one  and  one-half  inch  strip  of 
canvas,  finished  at  the  edge  with  the  blanket-stitch,  at  each 
end  of  the  cover  on  the  wrong  side,  and  one  and  one-half 
inches  in  from  each  end.     This  will  hold  the  cover  of  the 


magazme. 


XI.     Doll's  Table-Cover 


Materials. — Java  canvas,  6x6  inches. — Raffia,  plain  or 
colored,  5  strands. — Crewel  needles,  No.  i. — Thimbles. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

The  decorations  on  this  article  may  be  made  with  long 
stitches  arranged  systematically  to  form  a  line  design.  A 
border  may  be  used,  or  the  whole  centre  filled  with  decora- 
tion. The  edge  may  be  finished 
by  turning  up  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  and  blanket-stitching, 
or  by  tying  in  a  fringe. 


Fig.  29. 


Fringe. — Wind  silk  or  raffia  around  a  card,  one  and  one- 
half  inches  wide,  a  number  of  times;  cut  through  at  one  edge. 
In  order  to  tie  into  the  table-cover,  use  a  small  crochet-hook 
or  a  tapestr)'  needle.  No.  19;  double  each  strand;  pull  the  loop 
through  the  edge  (see  Fig.  29),  and  draw  the  ends  through  the 
loop. 


42 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


XII.     Pillow  for  Doirs  House 

Materials.— 2  pieces  Java  canvas,  6x6  inches. — Crewel 
needles,  No.  i. — Cotton  batting. — Thimble.  Approxi- 
mate cost  per  child 03 

The  decoration  may  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  cushion 

or  form  a  border  around 
the  edge.  If  it  is  to  fill 
^  the  centre,  divide  the 
square  in  ({uarters, 
either  on  the  straight 
or  the  diagonal;  this 
gives  a  centre  to  work 
from,  and  the  spaces 
Fig.  30.  are  to  be  filled  with  the 

repeat. 
Two  or  more  colors  may  be  used  effectively  in  this  decora- 
tion.    After  the  design  is  worked,  which  should  be  done  with 
long,  straight    stitches,    lay 
the    two    squares    face    to- 
gether and  sew  around  three 
sides,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
from   the   edge,   using   two 
runs     and     a     back-stitch 
(F'ig.    30).     Turn    it    right 
side  out  and  stuff  with  cot- 
ton.    Be  careful  to  fill  the 
corners  well.     Turn  in  tlie 
edges  of   the   opening   and 
run  or  overhand   tliem  to- 
gether (Fig.  31).      Finish  the  edge  with  cord  or  a  braid  of 
raflia. 


Fm.  31. 


Coarse  Seiv'iug 


43 


XIIL     Iron-holder 

Materials. — Denim,  5  x  5  inches. — Interlining,  4x4  inches. 
San  siliv. — Crewel  needle.  No.  2. — Thimble.  Approx- 
imate cost  per  child 02 

Fold  the  interlining  until  it  is  four  inches  square.  Fold  a 
one-half  inch  turning  around  both  pieces  of  denim,  taking 
care  to  fold  the  opposite  sides  of  the  square  first  and  then  the 
remaining  sides.  Fit  together  at  the  corners  by  slipping  the 
turnings  under  each  other  (they 
will  lie  much  flatter).  Baste 
the  two  sides,  put  in  the  inter- 
lining, and  continue  basting 
around  the  holder.  Finish  the 
edge  with  an  overcasting  stitch 
done  in  San  silk  (see  Fig.  32), 
first  one  way  all  around  and 
then  cross  each  stitch,  working 
in  the  opposite  direction.  Put 
a  large  cross  or  star  in  the 
centre;  this  will  make  a  decora- 
tion and  will  also  serve  to  hold 

the  interlining.  The  legs  of  old  stockings  make  excellent 
interlining  for  holders;  fold  them  flat,  the  size  required,  and 
turn  the  end  over  to  hold  them.  A  loop  of  braid  or  tape 
may  be  added  to  one  corner  of  the  holder  for  a  hanger;  or  a 
longer  piece  may  be  sewed  on,  with  a  safety  pin  in  the  other 
end  to  fasten  it  to  the  belt  while  in  use. 


Fig.  32. 


XIV.    Bean-Ba^ 

Materials. — Denim,  5  x  10  inches. — Colored  cotton.  No.  50. — 
Needle,  No,  7. — Beans.    Approximate  cost  per  child .   .02 

Fold  the  denim  to  form  a  square  with  the  right  sides 
together   and   baste  carefully  around  three  sides.     Sew  two 


44 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


Fig.  33. 


sides  and  half  of  the 
third,  using  a  back- 
stitch (see  Fig.  33)  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  from 
the  edge.  Turn  inside 
out,  being  careful  to 
make  square  corners. 
Fill   with    the    beans; 

turn  in   the  edge  of  the  opening,  baste,  and  sew,  using  an 

overhand  stitch  (see  Fig.  31). 

XV.    Pin-Ball 

Materials. — 2  cardboard  circles,  2f  inches  in  diameter. — 2 
circles  of  denim,  3J  inches  in  diameter. — Poseidon 
cotton,  \  skein.     Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

On  one  piece  of  denim  sketch  some  pleasing  design,  and 
place  it  well  in  the  centre.  This  may  be  outhncd  by  couching 
with  a  thread  of  contrasting  color  (see  Fig.  34).  Couching  is 
done  by  holding  a  hea\7  cord  (as  Poseidon)  over  the  line  of 
design  and  sewing  it  down  with  straight  stitches  of  a  finer 
silk ;  the  stitches  to  be  taken  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  apart. 
Make  a  row  of  running  stitches  one-eighth  of  an  inch  from 
the  edge  of  the  denim,  slip  in  the  circles  of  cardboard  and 
draw  up  the  thread.  Catch  firmly  with  long  stitches  back 
and  forth.  Gather  the 
edge  of  the  other  circle  in  a 
similar  way  over  the  card- 
board. The  two  circles 
may  be  joined  together 
back  to  back  by  holding 
a  thread  of  Poseidon 
around  the  edge  and  over- 
handing  it  (see  Fig.  31), 
or  by  simply  overhanding 
the  two  together. 


Fig.  34. 


Coarse  Seiciug  45 


XVI.     Denim  Bagf 

Materials. — Denim,  16x5^  inches.  Heavy  mercerized  cotton, 
\  skein. — Needles. — Thimbles. — 40  cotton.  Approx- 
imate cost  per  child 04 

Double  the  strip  so  that  the  two  right  sides  are  together. 
There  will  be  no  seam  at  the  bottom  of  the  bag.  Seam  the 
sides  to  within  three  inches  of  the  top.  Use  a  combination 
stitch  of  two  runs  and  a  back  stitch  (see  Fig.  30).  At  each 
end,  turn  down  one  and  three-quarter  inches  on  the  right  side 
jof  the  bag.  Seam  down  each  side  for  one  and  one-half 
inches — same  width  as  used  in  the  long  seam  of  the  bag. 
ITurn  this  over  to  the  wrong  side.  Turn  under  one-quarter 
^of  an  inch  and  hem  down.  One-quarter  of  an  inch  above 
(this  hem,  on  both  sides  of  the  bag,  make  a  running  stitch  for 
[the  casing. 

I  If  the  bag  is  to  be  ornamented,  it  must  be  done  before  it  is 
I  seamed  at  the  sides.  The  design  should  be  very  simple. 
I  Sketch  it  on  paper,  cut  it  out  and  paste  it  on  an  extra  piece  of 
; denim.  Cut  out  the  denim  according  to  design  and  baste 
ithis  on  the  bag.  The  paper  will  be  between  the  two  pieces 
lof  denim.  Take  heavy  mercerized  cotton  and  lay  around 
'the  design,  couching  it  down  with  a  different  color  (see  Fig. 
134).  In  putting  in  the  draw-string  at  the  top,  begin  at  one 
side,  run  the  cord  through  the  casing  all  the  way  around  to 
iwhere  it  was  started.  In  starting  the  other  string,  begin  at  the 
jopposite  side  and  run  it  around  in  the  other  direction  to  the 
ifirst  string.  Draw  up  the  cords  and  sew  or  tie  the  ends 
'together. 

J    The  bags  may  be  used  for  work-bags,  marbles,  or,  if  larger 
iin  size,  for  skates. 


CHAPTER  V 

PAPER  CUTTING  AND  FOLDING 

Paper  cutting  and  folding  are  other  forms  of  handwork 
which  may  be  used  in  many  dehghtful  ways  at  home,  or 
in  the  school-room  in  connection  with  other  studies.  It  is 
closely  allied  to  drawing  and  cultivates  alertness  and  powers 
of  observation,  especially  when  the  cutting  is  free-hand  work. 

Many  forms  of  symmetry  and  life  may  be  made  with  the 
kindergarten  folding  papers,  and  are  of  deep  interest  to  the 
children.  As  the  fingers  grow  in  strength,  a  heavier  paper  or 
cardboard  may  be  used  for  the  construction  work.  Plain 
cartridge  wall-paper  is  inexpensive  and  can  be  used  ad- 
vantageously in  large  classes.  Bogus  paper  and  even  news- 
papers may  be  utilized  in  a  similar  way. 

In  lessons  in  folding,  the  children  must  learn  to  follow  the 
directions  given  in  a  quick,  accurate  way. 

For  the  work  in  cutting  or  silhouetting  plain  black  or  white 
paper  is  the  best.  Kindergarten  papers  4x4  inches  may  be 
bought  in  all  colors  and  are  best  adapted  for  the  conventional 
designs.  These  may  be  mounted  on  the  tops  of  boxes  and 
other  articles  as  a  decoration,  or  used  in  stencil  work,  as  ex- 
plained in  the  following  chapter.  With  young  children  it  is 
preferable  to  use  blunt-pointed  scissors  and  inexpensive 
paper. 

The  following  outlines  may  be  suggestive  of  much  that  may 
be  worked  out  in  relation  to  the  other  class-room  work.     It  1 
may  be  a  foundation  for  later  work  in  more  difficult  con- ' 
struction. 

40  I 


i 


riATK.    \" 


47 


1.  Accordion. 

2.  Paper  dolls. 


PAPER   CUTTING 

3.  Stencil. 

4.  Free-hand  cutting. 


5.  Free-hand  cutting. 

6.  Paper  tearing. 


48 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


I.     A  Simple  Transparency 

Materials. — Gray  card,  4x5  inches. — Yellow  tissue  paper, 
4x5  inches. — Poseidon  or  cord,  }  yard.  x-\pproximate 
cost  per  child 01 

Have  the  children  draw  a  picture  of  a  crescent  moon  and  a 

star  (see  Fig.  35).  If  the  un- 
glazed  card  is  used,  draw  at 
once  upon  it,  as  mistakes  are 
easily  erased;  otherwise,  the 
sketch  may  first  be  made  upon 
a  slip  of  paper.  Cut  on  the 
line  sketched  and  remove  the 
moon  and  star.  These  may 
be  pasted  on  another  card  if 
cut  away  without  being  torn. 
On  the  other  side  paste  the 
YiQ_  35.  yellow  tissue  paper  and  make 

two    holes    at     the     top     for 

the  cord.  This  transparency  may  be  hung  in  the  window. 
Any  other  designs  may  be  cut  from  the  card  in  a  similar 

way. 

II,    Paper  Accordion 

Materials. — 2  strips  of  paper,  2  yards  x  i  J  inches. 

The  paper  accordions  afford  a  great  deal  of  amusement  to 
very  young  children.  They  may  be 
made  of  newspaper  or  any  scraps  of 
colored  paper — red,  white,  and  blue 
are  especially  pleasing.  If  made  of 
the  colors,  the  strips  must  be  pasted 
together  first,  so  that  the  accordion 
is  started  with  two  long  pieces  one 
and  one-half  inches  wide.  Lap  strip 
a  on  strip  b  (see  Fig.  36),  so  that  a  j 
square   is    formed    at  c.     The   ac-  Fig.  36. 


QJ 


Paper  C  1(1  ting  (iml  Folditig 


49 


cordion  is  built  up  on  this  square.  Fold  h  over  a  on  the 
square  c,  fold  a  over  b;  continue  until  the  strips  have  all  been 
folded. 

If  made  of  color,  the  accordions  are  a  pleasing  Christmas- 
tree  decoration.  They  may  be  made  of  strips  of  any  width, 
and  any  number  of  yards  may  be  put  in  each.  For  young 
children  do  not  cut  the  strips  too  narrow. 


III.     Pin-Wheel 


inches. — i    \ 


inch 


Materials. — i    square    of    paper,    5x5 
dowel-stick,  8  inches. 

Find  the  centre  of  the  paper  and  place  a  dot.  Fold  the 
square  corner  to  corner,  both  w^ays,  to  crease  the  diagonals. 
Cut  on  these  lines 
from  each  corner  of 
the  square  to  within 
half  an  inch  of  the 
centre  (see  Fig.  37). 
After  cutting,  there 
will  be  eight  points, 
two  at  each  corner  of 
the  square.  Every 
other  point  is  to  be 
lapped  over  the  centre 
and  the  pin  put 
through  the  five  thick- 
nesses.  A  small 
square  of  paper  of 
another  color  may  be  put  on  before  the  pin  is  put  through  the 
pin-wheel  and  pressed  into  the  end  of  the  stick. 

Pin-wheels  may  be  made  of  two  thicknesses  of  paper  and  of 
two  colors;  they  are  then  cut  together  and  one  color  forms  the 
lining.     They  run  better  when  made  in  this  way. 


50 


Occupations  for  Llffle  Fingers 


IV.     Paper  Dolls 

Materials. — i  strip  of  paper,  i  yard  by  4  inches. 

Fold  the  paper  so  that  the  two  short  edges  will  lie  together. 
This  will  make  the  strip  half  a  yard  in  length,  but  of  two 
thicknesses.  Fold  again  in  a  similar  way,  making  four 
thicknesses.  Continue  until  the  strip  is  folded  to  about  a 
width  of  one  and  one-half  inches.  With  the  scissors  cut  in  a 
free  way  the  outHne  of  the  doll;  if  necessary,  sketch  it  before 
cutting  (see  Fig.  ^S).  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  cut  through 
the  folds  at  a  and  b  of  the  sketch,  as  the 
dolls  will  not  be  joined  if  the  folds  are  cut. 
The  father  doll  and  children  may  also 
be  made  in  a  similar  way.  Animals  make 
an  interesting  variation  (see  Plate  V,  No.  6). 

V.     Designs  for  Stencils 

Materials. — Strips   of   heavy   paraffine  or 
oiled  paper. 

Plate  V,  No.  3,  shows  a  stencil  which 
has  been  made  from  a  strip  of  paper  three 
by    ten    inches.     Ordinary   heavy   brown 
Fig.  38.  paper  may  be  used  if  no  oiled   paper  is 

available.  Fold  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
strip  for  the  paper  dolls,  and  cut  the  design  free-hand.  It 
is  impossible  to  determine  before  cutting  what  the  design  is 
to  be,  and  the  surprises  when  the  strip  is  unfolded  are  often 
very  satisfactory. 

The  stencil  may  be  used  as  a  strip  where  a  repetition  of  units 
is  desired,  or  one  unit  may  be  cut  away  and  used  in  the 
decoration  of  objects.  India-ink  or  water-colors  may  be 
used  with  the  stencil  on  the  gray  mat  paper. 

Mats,  sgfa-cushions,  screens,  curtains,  etc.,  may  be  deco- 
rated by  use  of  the  stencil  with  paints  or  dyes. 


Paper  Cut  tit  I  g  (duI  Fold'uig 


,51 


VI.     Free  Cutting  of  Conventional  Designs 

Materials. — Squares  of  paper  of  any  color. 

Place  the  square  on  the  table  so  that  it  lies  with  the  corner 
toward  you.  Turn  the  corner  nearest  you  until  it  lies  on  the 
one  opposite,  a-b  is  the  folded  edge  toward  you  (see  Fig.  39). 
Fold  again  so  that  point  b  lies  on  a.    The  triangle  is  then  pre- 


FiG.  39. 


pared  for  cutting;  this  may  be  done  in  any  free  way.  Plate 
VI,  No.  3,  shows  several  results  of  this  conventional  cutting. 
The  pieces  cut  may  be  used  in  the  decoration  of  boxes  or 
other  objects. 


VII.     Free  Cutting-  or  Tearing  of  Objects 

Materials. — White  or  black  paper. 

Either  the  glazed  or  unglazed  paper  may  be  used  for  this 
purpose.  The  object  to  be  copied  may  be  placed  before  the 
children,  or  free  range  given  to  the  imagination  if  objects  are 


52 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


not  available.  No  directions  should  be  given,  as  they  should 
be  allowed  to  cut  or  tear  in  a  free  way.  Astonishing  results 
are  often  obtained.  Single  objects  or  scenes  may  be  por- 
trayed, and  profiles  of  friends  and  classmates  made  en 
siUwucUc.  This  work  is  interesting  to  the  older  children, 
and  the  results  are  very  pleasing  (see  Plate  V,  No.  6). 

VIII.     Picture-Frame 

Materials. — i    square   of  paper,   8x8   inches. — 3   pieces   of 

Poseidon  or  ribbon,  6  inches  each. — i  piece  of  Poseidon,   > 

10  inches.  ,, 

\ 
Find  the  centre  of  the  paper  and  fold  all  four  corners  until   ^ 

they  meet  at  that  centre  (see  Fig.  40  a-b).     Fold  the  same    j 

corners  back  to  the  side  of  square  first  formed.  { 

Holes  may  be  punched  through  the   double   thicknesses 


Fig.  40. 


and  small  ])ows  tied  in  three  corners  (see  Plate  VI,  No.  4). 
The  longest  ribbon  is  used  for  the  hanger  at  the  fourth 
corner. 

Wall-paper,  if  it  is  a  j)lain  color,  cartridge,  or  bogus  paper 
may  be  used  for  folding. 


Paper  Cutting  (ind  FoUI'mg 


58 


IX.     Newspaper-Holder  or  Wall-Pocket 

Materials. — i  square  of  cardboard,  8x8  inches. — i  piece  of 
Poseidon  or  ribbon,  8  inches. — i  piece  of  Poseidon  or 
ribbon,  lo  inches. 

One  inch  from  the  two  opposite  corners  a  and  h  make  holes 
with  a  punch  or  scissors  (see  Fig.  41 -i).  Fold  a  and  b  until 
the  holes  lie  on  top  of  each  other.  Tie  the  eight-inch  piece  of 
ribbon  through  the  two  holes  and  around  the  card  to  hold  it 
securely  in  place  (sec  Fig.  41-2). 
At  c  and  d  of  sketch  2,  make 
holes  through  the  two  thick- 
nesses and  put  the  ten-inch  rib- 
bon through  for  a  hanger  (sec 
Plate  VI,  No.  5). 

X.     Onice-Card 

Materials. — i  gra'*;  card,  ?>x^ 
inches. — 2  pieces  white  card- 
board, 6  x;r^-inches. 

Four  sHts  acfeUo  be  cut  in  the 
square  card  to  enable  the  free 
passage  of  the  white  cardboard 
strips.  From  the  upper  right- 
hand  corner  measure  down  one 
and  three-quarter  inches  and 
place  a  dot.  Measure  in  from  the  dot  to  the  edge  of  the  paper 
two  and  one-half  inches  and  place  another  dot;  from  this  dot 
cut  with  a  penknife,  using  a  ruler  for  guide,  a  slit  one  and 
three-eighths  inches  long  and  parallel  to  the  edge  of  the  card. 
Two  inches  below  the  end  of  this  slit  cut  another,  one  and  three- 
eighths  inches  long,  and  also  parallel  to  the  edge.  Three 
inches  to  the  left  of  both  slits  cut  two  more,  exactly  parallel 
to  them  and  two  and  one-half  inches  from  the  left-hand  edge. 


Fig.  41. 


54 


OccHjxdionsJ'or  Little  Fingers 


The  words  " In"  and  "  Out"  are  to  be  printed  in  the  middle 
of  the  white  strips,  and  the  strips  turned,  as  occasion  de- 
mands. This  makes  a  useful  article  to  hang  in  the  hallway. 
It  is  possible  to  have  the  name  of  the  person  using  it  printed 

above  the  upper  strip  or  between 
the  two.  Make  two  holes  at  the 
top  for  the  ribbon  hanger. 


XI.    Screen  for  DoIKs  House 

Materials. — Gray  mounting  paper, 
6x9  inches. 

Divide  the  oblong  into  three 
sections  of  three  by  six  inches. 
Rule  the  division  lines  lightly, 
lengthwise  of  the  cardboard. 
With  a  horseshoe-nail  score  the 
cardboard,  using  a  ruler  for 
guide;  bend  and  fold  in  thirds. 
At  the  bottom  and  top  of  each 
section,  remove  a  piece  of  card- 
board, two  by  one-half  inches  to 
make  the  feet  and  finish  for  the 

top  of  the  screen.     In  order  to  do  so  accurately,  measure  in 

from  each  edge  one-half  an  inch  and  down  one-half  an  inch 

and  cut  out  (see  Fig.  42). 

The  screen  may  be  decorated  with  the  stencilled  design, 

or  left  perfectly  plain. 


Fig.  42. 


XII.     Envelopes 

Materials. — Cartridge  paper,  or  any  suitable  kind  for  fancy 
or  j)lain  envelopes. 

The  en\elopes  may  be  made  of  any  dimension,  according  to 
the  size  desired.     For  note-paper  and  the  children's  use  in 


Paper  Cutting-  and  Foldiitg 


DO 


Cu 


class,  have  them  cut  the  ])apcr  six  l)y 
eight  inches  and  divide  it  into  two- 
inch  squares.  Rule  lightly,  so  thai 
the  lines  may  not  show  on  the  finished 
envelope. 

Remove  the  four  corner  squares 
(see  Fig.  43).  Draw  lines  connecting 
point  h  with  i  and  2,  a  with  i  and  4,  c 
with  2  and  3,  d  with  3  and  4.  Cut  out 
the  envelope  on  the  lines  just  drawn. 
Fold  down  the  two  sharp  points  b  and 
d.  Point  a  is  folded  over  them  and 
glued  w'here  the  two  edges  cover  each  other,  the  fourth  side 
is  for  sealing. 


A 

\       2. 

\ 

U-       3 

/ 

V 

Fig.  43. 


XIII.     Square  Box  with  Cover 

Materials. — Gray   cardboard. — i    4-inch    sheet    of    colored 
kindergarten  paper. 

Draw  a  three  and  one-half  inch  square.  From  each  corner 
continue  the  lines  one  and  one-half  inches.  Connect  the 
lines  drawn  to  form  the  sides  of  the  box.     After  it  is  cut,  it  is 

to  be  folded  into 
shape,  but  some  al- 
lowance must  be  made 
for  pasting  the  corners 
before  the  outhne  of 
the  box  is  cut  (see  Fig. 
44).  In  every  corner 
make  an  allowance  of 
one-quarter  of  an  inch 
according  to  the  dot- 
ted lines.  Cut  out  the 
box  with  care,  espe- 
cially where  the  al- 
FiG.  44.  lowance    has    been 


i              i 

56 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


made  for  the  turnings.  Score,  fold  into  shape,  and  glue  the 
corners. 

Cover. — Draw  a  square  three  and  three-quarter  inches. 
Continue  the  lines  from  the  corner  one  inch  in  both  directions. 
Connect  the  lines  to  form  the  sides  of  the  cover  (see  Fig.  44). 
Make  the  corner  allowances  for  pasting,  the  same  as  the 
bottom  of  the  box. 

The  cover  may  be  decorated  with  the  sheet  of  kindergarten 
paper.  Fold  it  as  described  under  Conventional  Cutting, 
and  make  a  free-hand  form. 

XrV.     Lamp  Of  Candle  Shade,  No,  J 

Materials. — Gray  cardboard. — 3  yards  of  Poseidon  or  baby 
ribbon. 

This  shade  is  composed  of  five  pieces  of  similar  shape,  tied 
together.  One  piece  must  be  drawn  according  to  dimensions, 
and  the  others  cut  the  same  size. 


Fig.  4o. 

Draw  a  line  four  inches  long  and  bisect  it.  From  the  point 
of  bisection  erect  a  perpendicular  line  two  and  one-half  inches 
long.     On  each  side  of  the  perpendicular  draw  a  line  one  inch 


Pcqjer  Cutting  (uid  Folding  57 

in  length  and  parallel  to  the  four-inch  line.  Connect  the 
ends  of  the  four-inch  line  with  the  ends  of  the  hne  drawn 
parallel  to  it  (see  Fig.  45).  Cut  out  the  form  and  make  four 
other  pieces  Hke  it.  Sketch  the  same  simple  design  on  all. 
After  drawing  the  design,  the  outHne  may  be  pricked  with  a 
pin  and  the  portion  of  cardboard  inside  the  outline  perforated 
with  pinholes.  Use  a  large  pin  and  have  the  rough  side  of 
the  pricking  for  the  outside — in  other  words,  prick  from  the 
inside  toward  the  outside.  The  perforations  allow  the  light 
to  shine  through.  In  each  angle  of  all  five  pieces  make  a  hole 
with  a  punch  and  tie  them  into  shape.  The  four-inch  sides 
of  the  forms  make  the  bottom  of  the  shade. 

XV.     Lamp  Shade^  No.  2 

Materials. — Cardboard. — Rice  paper. — India -ink. 

This  shade  is  made  up  of  four  sides,  and  a  portion  of  each  is 
cut  away  and  rice  paper  used  for  the  transparency. 

Draw  an  eight-inch  Hne  and  bisect  it.  Erect  a  perpendicular 
from  the  point  of  bisection,  four  inches  in  length.  On  each 
side  of  the  end  of  the  perpendicular  erected,  and  at  right 
angles  to  it, 
draw  a  two- 
inch  line. 
Connect  the 
ends  of  the 
two-inch  lines 
with  the  ends 

of    the    eight-  p^^   ^g 

mch  hne.    Cut 

out  the  form  drawn,  and  make  three  others  like  it.  Three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  inside  of  the  edge  of  the  forms  made, 
draw  another  outline  parallel  to  it  (see  Fig.  46).  With  a 
penknife  cut  carefully  on  the  line  just  drawn  and  remove  the 
piece  of  cardboard  from  the  centre  of  the  form.     Cut  four 


5« 


PLATE   VI 


I'APER   CUTTING   AND   FOLDING 


1.  Transparency. 

2.  Pin-wheel. 

3.  Conventional  cutting. 


4.  Picture-frame. 

5.  Wall-pocket. 

6.  Office  card. 


7.  Screen. 

8.  Envelope. 

9.  Box. 


10.  [, amp-shade. 

11,  Lamp-shade. 


Paper  Ciitt'Dig  (Did  Folil'ntg  59 

pieces  of  rice  paper  a  trifle  smaller  than  the  original  form 
and  make  some  simple  design  ,40n  them,  using  India-ink. 
Paste  one  beneath  each  piece  of  cardboard.  Care  must  be 
taken  to  have  the  designs  well  placed  in  the  space  from  which 
the  cardboard  has  been  removed. 

If  this  work  is  executed  neatly  a  very  attractive  lampshade 
may  be  made.  After  the  four  sides  have  been  prepared,  the}' 
may  be  pasted  together  with  paper  hinges. 


CHAPTER  VI 

SOME   STORIES   IN   CLAY 

Clay  offers  another  medium  of  free  expression  for  the 
child.  He  has  the  whole  world  and  life  about  him  bringing 
him  daily  impressions,  and  as  he  expresses  himself  in  various 
ways  he  learns  to  understand  this  world  of  things.  Many  a 
story  has  been  worked  out  and  told  on  the  sands  of  the  sea- 
shore and  in  the  mud-pie  period  of  childhood. 

Clay  modelling  may  be  made  of  deep  significance  and 
educational  va/ue.  It  cultivates  careful  attention  and  obser- 
vation, and  is  of  interest  to  the  child.  The  work  of  young 
children  will  necessarily  be  crude — but  it  is  still  the  childish 
expression,  and  high  art  is  not  the  aim  of  this  work. 

Potters'  gray  clay  is  the  best  material  for  this  purpose.  It 
should  be  as  free  from  lumps  as  possible,  and  not  too  brittle 
when  presented  for  use.  It  should  be  kept  moist  in  tin  boxes, 
or  in  an  iron  pail  covered  with  a  rubber  cloth,  to  prevent 
evaporation. 

Old  slates  or  squares  of  oil-cloth  for  protection  of  the  desks 
may  be  used,  but  if  these  are  not  available,  heavy  glazed  paper 
will  answer.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have  many  tools  for  this 
simple  work.  Knitting-needles,  hairpins,  wooden  toothpicks, 
slate-pencils  and  small  pieces  of  string  or  wire,  will  be  found 
of  much  help.  The  handle  of  a  spoon  makes  a  good  tool. 
Kindergarten  supply  places  offer  tools  for  sale ;  they  are  help- 
ful, but  one  can  manage  without  them,  if  money  is  not 
available  for  the  purpose. 

Before  presenting  the  clay  to  the  child,  the  teacher  should 
see  that  it  is  in  a  fav{)ra])lc  condition.  It  should  be  soft,  and 
yield  easily  to  the  pressure  of  the  thumb,  but  not  sticky. 

60 


PLATE   VII 


61 


1.  Bird  life. 

2.  Plant  life. 

3.  Seashore  life. 


CLAY   MODELLING 

4.  Vegetable  life. 

5.  Animal  life. 

6.  Home  life. 


7.  Scene. 

8.  Bowl. 

9.  Beehive. 


62  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

The  object  to  be  modelled  should,  if  possible,  be  placed 
before  the  child,  but  if  certain  stories  are  to  be  worked  out, 
the  teacher  may  in  a  measure  rely  upon  his  imaginative 
genius.  Clay  will  be  found  a  very  helpful  medium  used  in 
connection  with  stories  of  primitive  life,  and  truly  deepens  the 
childish  impressions  of  things  in  days  that  are  past. 

I.     Bird  Life 

Materials. — Potters'  clay. 

A  simple  story  may  be  told  by  the  teacher  or  mother, 
illustrating  the  building  of  the  bird's  nest,  the  laying  and 
hatching  of  the  eggs,  and  the  flight  of  the  young  birds.  In 
one  lesson  the  nest  and  eggs,  with  mother  and  father  bird 
may  be  made,  and  in  the  second,  the  eggs  removed  and  the 
small  birds  substituted. 

Take  a  small  lump  of  clay  about  the  size  of  a  large  egg. 
Make  a  small  indentation  toward  the  centre  with  the  pressure 
of  the  thumb.  Gradually  work  around  with  the  thumb 
and  hold  the  clay  in  the  palm  of  the  left  hand  until  a  small  cup 
shape  is  formed.  Roughen  the  outside  of  the  nest  with  a  piece 
of  wire  or  a  toothpick.  Take  three  or  four  small  pieces  of  the 
clay  and  form  into  egg  shapes  by  rolling  them  around  between 
the  palms.  The  teacher  will  find  the  real  objects  of  great 
assistance,  and  the  children  can  readily  copy  them.  Small 
birds  may  be  made  of  any  size  by  rolling  the  small  lump  of 
clay,  as  for  the  eggs,  and  then  pinching  the  sides  to  form 
wings  (see  Plate  VII,  No.  i). 

IL    Plant  Life 

Materials. — Potters'  clay. — Oak-leaves  and  acorns. 

Give  each  child  a  small  lump  of  clay.  Press  it  into  a  plinth 
or  slab  three-fiuarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness.  Lay  the 
leaf  on  the  clay  and  j)rcss  it  into  it  until  tln'  indentations  of 


SoDic  Stories  in  Chuj  63 

veins  and  shaj)c  arc  made.  The  leaf  may  then  be  removed, 
or  the  outline  shape  cut  with  a  knitting-needle  before  dis- 
placing it.  The  small  pieces  of  clay  left  may  be  formed  into 
acorns.  Roll  a  small  lump  of  clay  between  the  palms. 
Each  child  may  be  given  an  acorn  to  copy  and  the  shaping 
and  roughness  of  the  acorn-cup  made  with  a  hairpin  or  piece 
of  wood. 

Impressions  of  various  leaves  and  flowers,  coins,  etc.,  may 
be  made  in  a  similar  way.  If  impressions  are  made  of 
flowers,  they  may  be  colored  after  the  clay  is  dry.  This 
makes  a  very  pleasant  variation  (sec  Plate  VII,  No.  2). 

III.    Seashore  Life 

Materials. — Potters'  clay. — Shells. — Pictures  of  fish. 

A  story  of  seashore  life  may  be  told  by  the  teacher,  and  the 
children  each  given  a  shell  to  copy.  A  lump  of  clay  about 
half  the  size  of  an  egg  may  be  rolled  between  the  palms. 
Place  the  clay  within  the  shell  to  get  the  impression.  After 
this  has  been  made  and  the  shell  used  as  a  cutter  for  the  shape, 
make  the  finish- 
ing markings  of 
the  shell  with  the 
wire  tool  or  hair- 
pin. 

The  picture  of  j.kj.  47 

a    fish    may    be 

placed  before  the  children.  Make  a  plinth  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  thick  and  about  2x4  inches.  With  the  wire,  mark 
an  outline  of  a  fish  on  the  clay  (see  Fig.  47).  Use  the  wire 
for  cutting  out  the  fish  and  roughening  the  fins. 

A  basket  for  fish  and  shells  may  also  be  made.  Make  the 
basket  of  coils  of  clay.  These  may  be  rolled  between  the 
palms  and  made  about  the  thickness  of  a  peppermint  stick. 
Coil  the  roll  to  form  the  bottom,  and  when  that  is  sufiiciently 


G4 


Occiq}atio)is  for  Little  Fingers 


large,  the  sides  may  be  formed  by  allowing  one  coil 
to  overlap  another  (see  Fig.  48).  A  twisted  coil  of  clay 
may  be  made  for  the  handle  and  pressed  against  the  sides  of 

the    basket  until  securely  placed 
(see  Plate  VII,  No.  3). 

in 

IV.    Vegetable  Life 

Materials. — Potters'   clay. — Pota- 
to, tomato,  and  carrot. 

Have  the  children  bring  a  vege- 
table from  home,  or  the  teacher 
may  supply  one  for  general  obser- 
vation. 

Give  each  child  a  lump  of  clay 
and  a  piece  of  wood  or  wire  for  a  tool  and  allow  him  to  copy 
the  shape  of  the  vegetable  placed  before  the  class.  Only  one 
object  at  a  time  should  be  given.  About  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  is  needed  for  each  piece.  Such  lessons  are  most  in- 
teresting around  Thanksgiving  time,  when  stories  of  the 
harvest  are  most  appropriate  (see  Plate  VII,  No.  4). 


Fig.  48. 


V.     Animal  Life 

Materials. — Potters'  clay. — Pictures  of  buttertly,  cocoon,  and 
worm,  and,  if  possible,  the  real  objects,  as  the  teacher 
tells  the  story. 

The  worm  is  the  lirst  thing  to  be  made  in  the  natural  order 
of  se(|uence.  This  may  be  made  by  rolling  a  small  lump  into 
an  oblong  roll.  Small  j)ieces  of  clay  may  be  removed  where 
the  eyes  of  the  worm  should  ai)pear,  and  the  under  surface 
roughened  with  the  wire  tool.  The  chrysalis  stage  is  easily 
made  by  the  children,  but  the  butterfly  is  more  difficult  for 
little  fingers.  To  begin  it,  make  a  roll  of  clay  about  the  size 
of  the  worm ;  roughen  the  under  part.     Take  two  small  lumps 


Sonic  Stories  'nt  Chiij  (15 

of  clay,  tlatten  them  and  form  into  the  sha])c  of  wings, 
using  the  wire  tool.  It  is  expected  that  the  results  will  be 
crude.  The  worm  may  be  colored  green,  and  the  butterfly 
an  appropriate  color,  after  the  clay  is  dry. 

This  will  probably  take  two  or  three  lessons  to  work  out. 

The  butterfly  may  also  be  made  on  a  plinth.  The  outline 
must  first  be  drawn  with  the  wire  tool.  Small  pieces  of  clay 
may  then  be  added  to  form  the  wings  in  relief,  but  this  work 
will  be  found  a  little  more  difficult  for  young  children. 

The  beehive  and  bee  makes  an  easy  and  attractive  lesson. 
Pictures  of  a  hive  are  easily  obtainable,  and  the  small  mounds 
readily  made.  The  foundation  is  a  small  lump  formed  into  a 
round  ball  between  the  palms.  It  may  then  be  flattened  on 
one  side  by  placing  it  on  tlic  slate  and  the  rest  of  the  moulding 
and  markings  made  according  to  the  pictures.  Very  small 
pieces  of  clay  may  be  made  into  bees  by  rolling  the  clay  into 
small  balls  and  pinching  the  sides  for  wings  (see  Plate  VII, 
No.  9). 

VI.    Home  Life 

Materials. — Potters'  clay. — Home  objects. 

The  children  may  play  that  they  are  housekeepers  and 
have  a  loaf  of  bread  to  make.  The  teacher  or  mother  may 
tell  a  story  of  how  this  is  done.  The  children  may  make  the 
bowl,  rolling-pin,  and  finished  loaf  of  bread.  These  are 
easily  formed  from  the  real  objects,  but,  of  course,  made 
miniature  in  size. 

A  lesson  in  this  connection  may  be  given  when  tlie  storv 
of  butter-making  is  told  and  the  simple  churn  modelled  in 
the  clay  (see  Plate  VII,  No.  6). 

VIL     Pictures  in  Clay 

Many  interesting  lessons  may  be  given  by  having  the 
children  draw  on  the  clay  with  the  wire  tool.  The  aim  is,  of 
course,  free  expression,  as  in  the  drawing  on  paj)er  or  black- 


66 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


board.  A  plinth  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick  and 
6x4  inches  makes  a  good  size.  Care  shoukl  be  taken  to 
have  the  corners  well  formed.  Any  story  of  interest  in  con- 
nection with  the  work  of  the  class,  or  any  story  the  mother 
may  tell  can  be  drawn  upon  the  clay  (see  Plate  VII,  No.  7). 
For  instance,  a  story  of  the  sea  and  a  boat  may  be  drawn, 
and  the  water  colored  blue  and  the  sails  white,  or  the  sketch 
may  be  drawn  without  coloring. 

VIII.     Other  Objects  in  Clay 

There  are  many  objects  used  in  the  children's  daily  life 
which  may  be  copied  by  them.  These  may  be  placed  before 
the  class  and  the  children  allowed  to  work  them  out  in  an 
individual  way.  As  the  work  becomes  more  difficult,  the 
children  may  be  taught  to  make  a  bowl  by  coiHng  and  smooth- 


FiG.  49. 


ing  the  coils.  This  is  perhaps  not  so  easy,  but  it  offers  a 
variation  in  method  of  working.  The  bowl  is  started  with  a 
coil  at  the  bottom,  and  as  each  row  is  added  it  is  smoothed 
downward  both  inside  and  out,  and  the  surface  finished  in 
this  way  (see  Fig.  49).  A  simj)le  design  in  line  may  be  made 
around  the  top  with  a  wire  (see  Plate  VII,  No.  8). 


CHAPTER  VII 

WEAVING 

There  is  no  industrial  history  quite  so  interesting  as  that 
of  the  dcvcloi)mcnt  of  weaving.  Few  people  think  of  the 
evolution  of  this  wonderful  art,  or  of  the  many  processes 
through  which  a  garment  has  actually  passed.  It  is  probably 
the  first  art  which  primitive  people  practised. 

Weaving  can  be  traced  to  early  biblical  times.  The 
Israelites  were  well  versed  in  it,  as  well  as  in  spinning 
and  dyeing.  For  centuries  weaving  has  been  practised  in 
Egypt,  China,  and  India. 

Until  within  the  last  one  hundred  and  fifty  years,  the  style 
of  loom  employed  was  very  primitive,  and  even  to-day  in 
British  India  and  in  America  among  the  Indians,  very  simple 
looms  are  still  in  use.  The  Egyptians  are  generally  accredited 
with  the  invention  of  the  loom. 

In  the  most  primitive  ones  there  are  two  beams  or  sticks. 
Between  these  the  warp  threads  are  strung,  and  the  woof 
woven  under  and  over  with  the  fingers.  A  step  in  advance 
of  this  is  the  use  of  a  stick  as  shuttle,  upon  which  the  woof  is 
wound.  The  evolution  of  warp  and  cloth  rollers  and  of  batten 
and  shuttle  is  most  interesting,  and  in  the  wonderful  Jacquard 
loom  of  to-day,  with  its  great  facilities  for  beautiful  pattern 
weaving,  one  hardly  recognizes  the  primitive  friend  of  cen- 
turies ago. 

With  the  introduction  of  steam  power  and  modern  inven- 
tions, many  of  the  hand-looms  of  colonial  times  were  stored  in 
the  attics.  During  the  past  few  years,  the  revival  of  handi- 
crafts has  brought  them  from  their   hiding-places.     Many 

67 


68  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

beautiful  specimens  of  hand  weaving  made  on  such  looms, 
may  be  seen  at  the  arts  and  crafts  shops  in  the  leading  cities. 

Weaving  as  a  school  or  home  subject  may  be  made  most 
interesting  to  children.  It  offers  so  many  opportunities  for 
originahty  in  the  way  of  designing,  and  is  easily  executed 
by  the  youngest  children  in  the  grades.  In  connection  with 
the  study  of  primitive  life,  there  is  nothing  more  fascinating 
to  the  child  than  the  weaving  of  a  stockade  of  splints,  a  mat 
of  rushes  for  the  house,  or  the  Indian  blanket  on  a  tiny  loom, 
which  he  has  made.  As  the  study  of  weaving  progresses, 
simple  looms  may  be  made  out  of  paper  boxes,  and  the 
heddle  of  the  Zuni  Indian  studied.  Still  another  step  may  be 
intro(juced  with  the  warp  and  cloth  rollers  and  the  material 
actually  woven  and  rolled  from  one  to  the  other.  The  study 
of  heddle  and  treadle  weaving  makes  an  interesting  problem 
for  the  upper  grades  or  high-school  children.  Circular 
weaving  is  an  interesting  variation,  and  numerous  small 
articles  may  be  made  from  the  woven  circles. 

Many  materials  may  be  utilized  in  this  work :  Germantown 
wool,  carpet  yarn,  ratha,  silkoHne,  rags,  and  candle-wicking 
may  all  serve  the  purpose.  In  the  early  stages  of  the  work, 
the  paper  weaving  of  the  kindergarten  may  be  given,  as  well 
as  the  weaving  of  splints. 

Macrame  cord  makes  a  good  foundation  for  the  warp  when 
Germantown  wools  or  carpet  yarns  are  used  as  woof. 

Weaving  develops  a  dexterity  of  hand  and  tends  to  increase 
thought  with  skill.  The  child  is  trained  in  perseverance  and 
patience,  and  there  is  joy  in  actually  producing  the  woven 
fabric. 

Community  feeling  may  be  developed  by  having  the  children 
work  for  a  common  object.  A  number  of  the  small  rugs 
woven  by  them  may  be  sewed  together,  and  a  large  one  for 
the  class-room  made.  The  work  may  be  planned  in  such  a 
way  that  certain  children  weave  the  borders  and  others  the 
plain  part  of  the  rug. 


Weaving 


69 


Weaving  offers  many  opportunities  for  the  introduction  of 
simple  and  pleasing  designs.  These  may  be  worked  out  in 
the  drawing  period,  and  utilized  when  opportunity  presents 
itself. 

I.     Splint  Weaving 

Materials. — 8  pieces  of  ^-inch  flat  rattan  or  splint  8  inches 
long.       Approximate 

A    A    A 


.OI 


cost  per  child 

Have  the  children 
point  both  ends  of 
each  piece  of  splint, 
with  the  scissors.  Lay 
four  splints  side  by 
side  on  the  table,  with 
the  ends  pointing  up 
and  down.  Take  the 
fifth  spHnt  in  the  right 
hand  and  weave  over 
No.  I,  under  No.  2, 
over  No.  3,  and  under 
No.  4.  Hold  them 
flat  with  the  palm  of  the 
left  hand.  Take  splint 
No.  6  and  weave  under 
No.  I,  over  No.  2,  under 


A 


< 


No.  3,  and  over  No. 


4- 


No.  7  is  woven  Hke  No. 
:  5  and  No.  8  like  No.  6. 
I  This   may    be    called    a 

mat,  stockade,  or  fence. 

If  utihzed  for  portion  of 
i  a  fence  on  the  sand  table, 
ithe  two  upper  splints 
;may  be  moved  together 


dl 


mhi 


lil 


> 


V. 


^ ^ 


V 


A 


4 

< 


^Mi 


A 


,      IflCl/ln- 


TWffi 


TWr 


< 


LiiiiL 


prr 


um{~ 


M 


> 


Pfrn 


V 


3         ? 


> 


V 


Fig.  50. 


70  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

and    the   two   lower  ones,  to   form  a  rail    (see   Fig.  50,  a 
and  h). 

This  simple  work  should  teach  the  principle  of  weaving; 
which  is  over  and  under  every  other  splint. 

II,    Paper  Weavingf 

Materials. — i  kindergarten  mat  and  strips. — Small  piece  of 
cotton  wadding.     Approximate  cost  per  child 01 

It  is  hardly  necessary  to  describe  the  famihar  kindergarten 
weaving.  This  may  be  done  in  a  very  coarse  way  on  mats 
of  bogus  paper  before  the  more  delicate  papers  are  utilized. 
This  weaving  offers  many  opportunities  for  variation  of  design 
and  change  of  color,  and  many  attractive  articles  can  be  made 
from  the  mats.  After  weaving  a  square  mat,  it  may  be  folded  ■ 
in  a  triangular  shape  and  a  sheet  of  wadding  with  sachet  ^ 
placed  inside.  The  edges  may  then  be  pasted  together. 
This  is  a  very  simple  article  for  the  child  to  make. 

in.     Woven  Hammock 

Materials. — Carpet  yarn  or  Germantown  wool. — Tvlacrame 
cord  or  twine. — Pasteboard,  6x8  inches. — 2  brass  rings. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 03 

In  the  card,  6x8  inches,  punch  two  rows  of  holes  about  one 
quarter  of  an  inch  apart.     These  rows  may  be  placed  one  inch 

from  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  card, 
and  a  margin  of  one  inch  left  on  each  ( 
side  of  the  rows.     Plate  No.  8  will  j. 
show  the  arrangement  of  the  rows  j 
of  holes.     In  the  middle  of  the  back 

Fig   51  ^^  ^^^  ^^^*^    ^^^^    loosely   the    two  j 

brass  rings  which  have  previously  j 

been  tied  together  (see  Fig.  51),     The  warp  threads  of  the  | 

hammock  will  be  the  long  cords  on  the  right  side  of  the  card-  I 

board.     The  woof  is  the  thread,  which  is  continuous  and  is  j 


Weaving  71 

put  in  to  form  the  woven  material  and  selvage.  Tie  one 
end  of  the  macrame  cord  through  brass  ring  No.  i.  Put  the 
other  end  of  cord  through  the  first  hole  of  the  lower  row, 
bring  it  through  to  the  right  side,  and  draw  it  through  hole 
No.  I  on  the  upper  row  and  down  on  the  wrong  side  to  the 
second  brass  ring.  Pass  it  through  the  ring  and  back  to  the 
second  hole  on  the  upper  row,  then  through  the  second  hole 
on  the  lower  row  and  through  ring  No.  i  again.  Sixteen  or 
seventeen  holes  make  a  very  good  width  for  the  small  ham- 
mock, and  there  should,  consequently,  be  seventeen  warp  cords. 

The  woof  thread  is  continuous,  and  so  forms  the  selvage 
by  passing  around  the  outside  warp  threads.  The  weaving 
is  simple  weaving,  over  and  under  one,  back  and  forth. 
Bands  of  another  color  may  be  introduced  to  form  stripes 
in  the  hammock.  When  the  weaving  has  been  finished,  it 
should  extend  from  row  to  row  of  holes.  The  ends  of  the 
finishing,  and  also  the  beginning  of  the  woof,  may  be  run  in 
underneath  so  as  to  be  hidden. 

The  cardboard  may  then  be  cut  away  and  the  hammock 
cords  bound  below  the  brass  rings. 

If  it  is  desirable  to  save  the  cardboard,  the  ends  of  the  cords 
which  passed  around  the  rings  may  be  cut  and  looped  around 
the  rings  afterward  and  bound.  In  order  to  preserve  the 
cardboard,  the  rows  of  holes  may  be  cut  at  the  edge  of  the 
cardljoard  and  the  cords  passed  through  the  indentations. 
It  will  not  be  necessary  then  to  cut  the  cords.  The  hammock 
in  Plate  VHI,  No.  3,  has  been  made  in  this  way.  Mats  may 
also  be  woven  in  a  similar  manner,  but  it  is  not  necessary  to 
have  the  warp  long  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  card.  Pass  the 
cord  from  hole  No.  i  on  the  lower  row  up  on  the  right  side 
of  the  card  through  hole  No.  i  on  the  upper  row.  Pass  it 
through  hole  No.  2  on  the  upper  row  from  the  wrong  to  the 
right  side,  and  down  again  to  hole  No.  2  on  the  lower  row. 
The  ends  may  be  cut  on  the  wrong  side  after  the  mat  is 
finished,  and  a  fringe  tied  with  the  ends. 


72  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

Simple  designs  may  be  introduced,  but  it  is  not  advisable 
until  the  children  have  had  some  experience  in  weaving  and 
putting  in  bands  of  color.  Plaids  and  stripes  may  be  made 
by  having  some  of  the  warp  threads  of  different  colors. 
Plate  VIII,  No  7,  shows  some  plaids  woven  in  this  manner. 
This  is  a  XQvy  simple  loom,  and  very  inexpensive. 


IV.     Rug  Weaving 

Materials. — Macrame   cord.  No.  6. — Germantown  wool,  or 
carpet  yarn. 

Another  step  in  the  history  of  weaving  is  taken  when  some 
method  of  raising  and  lowering  the  alternate  sets  of  threads 
is  introduced.  The  teacher  should  begin  this  work  with  a 
development  lesson  in  weaving  and  a  talk  about  loom  con- 
struction. The  history  of  the  Zufii  Indian  method  of  raising 
the  threads  is  very  interesting  to  children.  Simple  looms 
may  be  made  of  a  pasteboard  or  cigar-box.  If  the  candy- 
box  is  used,  make  a  row  of  holes  in  each  end  of  the  box  and 
near  to  the  top;  if  a 
cigar-box  serves  the 
purpose,    a    row    of 


Ooooooooo 


Fig.  52. 


nails  must  be  placed 
along  the  edge  of  each 
end  of  the  box  (Plate 
IX,  No.  I  and  No.  2, 
shows  two  such  looms).  In  loom  weaving  of  this  descrip- 
tion the  children  must  understand  the  parts  thoroughly  be- 
fore beginning  the  construction.  Warp  and  woof  must  be 
well  understood.  The  shuttle  may  be  a  piece  of  cardboard 
around  which  the  woof  is  wound  before  it  is  passed  between 
the  threads;  it  may  be  simply  a  stick,  or  the  fingers  may  be 
used  as  a  shuttle  for  passing  the  woof.  The  arrangement  for 
alternating  tlie  threads  is  called  a  heddlc.  The  Zuni  Indian 
system  was  a  simple  one  (see  Fig.  52).    Thread  No.  i  is  passed 


PLATE    VIII 


73 


1.  Splints. 

2.  Paper  weaving. 

3.  Hammock. 


WEAVING 


4.  Afat. 

5.  Raffia  mat 

6.  Indian  blanket. 


7.  Plaid  weaving. 

8.  Small  rug. 

9.  Circular  weaving. 


10.  Circular  mat. 

11.  Circular  pocket. 

12.  Bag. 


74  Occupations  for  Little  Finger's 

through  the  first  sHt  and  can  then  move  up  and  down.  No.  2 
is  passed  through  a  hole  and  is  held.  No.  3  moves,  and  No.  4 
is  held,  and  so  on  across  the  warp.  When  the  heddle  is  raised 
all  the  threads  in  the  holes  are  drawn  up  and  the  other  alter- 
nate ones  are  lowered.  The  shuttle  is  then  passed  between 
this  division.  When  the  heddle  is  lowered  the  threads  in  the 
holes  go  down  and  those  in  the  slits  all  up  together.  The 
shuttle  is  then  passed  through  this  other  division.  This  is 
a  simple  device  for  alternating  the  threads  and  is,  of  course, 
labor  saving  when  there  are  many  in  the  warp. 

To  string  up  the  box :  Make  the  heddle  of  a  piece  of  card- 
board according  to  the  width  of  the  cloth  desired.  If  sixteen 
warp  threads  are  used,  there  will  be  eight  holes  and  eight 
slits  in  the  heddle.  Tie  the  warp  cord  to  nail  No.  i  on  the 
lower  row.  Pass  it  through  slit  No.  i  of  the  heddle  and 
around  nail  No.  i  on  the  upper  row.  Bring  the  cord  back 
through  hole  No.  i  of  the  heddle  and  around  nail  No.  2 
on  the  lower  row.  Continue  until  the  loom  is  strung  up. 
Wind  the  woof  yarn  on  a  piece  of  cardboard.  Hold  the  hed- 
dle in  the  left  hand,  raise  it  and  pass  the  shuttle  between  the 
threads.  Lower  the  heddle  and  pass  the  shuttle  in  return.  On 
so  small  a  loom  the  fingers  can  be  used  in  place  of  a  shuttle. 

The  heddle  also  serves  as  a  batten,  which  is  used  to  push 
the  woof  threads  together  and  so  to  make  a  more  closely 
woven  cloth  or  rug. 

Continue  until  the  rug  is  woven.  This  method  makes  an 
interesting  problem,  and  is  easily  executed  when  once  the 
principle  is  understood.  The  rug  may  be  removed  by  cut- 
ting the  cords  at  the  ends,  as  in  the  paper  box,  or  removing 
them  from  around  the  nail  heads  in  the  wooden  box.  The 
ends  may  be  tied  into  a  fringe,  or  a  fringe  of  wool  or  yarn  made 
and  put  in  (see  Fig.  29).  Plate  VIII,  No.  8,  shows  a  rug 
made  on  the  cigar-box  loom. 

If  it  is  desired  to  have  a  stripe  woven  in  the  rug,  it  may  be 
introduced  by  carrying  the  original  color  woof  along  the 


Weaving  75 

selvage,  and  working  the  color  of  the  stripe  around  it  in 
passing  the  woof.  When  it  is  necessary  to  work  with  the 
original  color,  it  may  be  used,  and  the  color  of  the  stripe 
carried  along  the  selvage  until  it  is  necessary  to  introduce 
another  stripe. 

V.     Another  Loom 

Materials. — Two  flat  sticks,  9  x  J  inches. — Two  flat  sticks, 
7  X  J  inches. — One  flat  stick,  6x1  inches. — One  stick, 
5  X  I  inches. — Germantown  wool. — Nails. 

Make  an  oblong  frame  of  the  two  9-inch  sticks  and  the 
two  7-inch  sticks  of  half-inch  width.  These  may  be  cut  from 
a  cigar-box  or  pine  sticks.  Nail  the  frame  at  the  corners. 
Hammer  ten  small  nails  across  the  top  bar  of  the  frame  and 
ten  across  the  lower,  having  them  exactly  opposite  each 
other.  Place  them  about  one-half  inch  apart  (see  Plate  IX, 
No.  3).  Attach  the  warp  yarn  to  the  first  nail  on  the  lower 
row;  wind  it  around  the  first  nail  on  the  upper  row;  pass  it  to 
nail  No.  2  on  the  upper  row,  around  it  and  down  to  nail  No. 
2  on  the  lower  row.     Continue  until  the  warp  is  arranged. 

The  stick  7  inches  long  by  \  of  an  inch  wide  is  to  be  used  for 
the  heddlc.  Cut  a  slight  groove  one-half  inch  from  each  end 
of  the  stick.  Tie  a 
piece  of  cord  in  the 
groove  at  one  end. 
Lay  the  stick  on  top 
of  the  warp  threads ; 
pass  the  cord  tied  to 

the  stick  around  the  first  warp  thread,  and  then  around  the 
stick.  Skip  the  second  thread  and  pass  the  cord  around  the 
third  warp  thread.  Continue  until  every  other  warp  thread 
has  been  attached  to  this  heddle  stick.  Make  each  of  these 
loops  about  one  inch  in  length.  This  is  for  raising  the  alternate 
threads.  The  shuttle  is  made  of  the  stick  5  x  |  inches  (see 
Fig.  53).     Wind  the  wool  for  the  woof  around  the  shuttle. 


76 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


Another  stick  is  necessary  for  obtaining  the  other  division  of 
the  threads;  this  is  called  a  batten,  and  is  to  be  made  of  the 
stick  6x1  inches,  and  is  flat  and  slightly  rounded  at  the  ends. 
The  batten  is  used  to  push  the  woof  threads  together  and  to 
batten  the  rug  so  that  it  will  be  more  firm  in  construction. 

Raise  the  hcddle  and  pass  the  shuttle  between  the  division 
of  threads.  Pick  up  the  alternate  threads  with  the  batten, 
and  again  pass  the  shuttle  across.  Continue  until  the  rug 
is  woven.  This  is  the  principle  of  the  Navajo  Indian  rug 
weaving.  The  real  method  used  by  the  Indians  is  very  much 
more  complicated.  The  warp  is  made  before  it  is  attached 
to  the  loom,  and  the  Indians  have  a  method  of  introducing 
selvage  cords,  and  of  attaching  the  heddle  rod,  which  is  quite 
intricate  and  too  diiTicult  for  children.     The  Third  Annual 

Report  of  the  Bu- 
reau of  Ethnology, 
1882,  gives  a  very 
definite  description 
of  the  method  of 
work  pursued  by 
the  Indians. 

In  the  study  of 
Indian  life  the  chil- 
dren may  make  a 
simple  loom,  using 
the  principles  of 
the  above,  but  changing  the  construction  somewhat. 

Take  four  natural  sticks,  cross  and  tic  them  at  the  corners 
(see  Plate  IX,  No.  4).  The  cord  is  wound  back  and  forth 
around  tlie  upper  and  lower  rods  of  the  frame  to  form  the 
warp.  Simple  weaving  may  be  put  in  with  the  fingers,  with- 
out any  heddle,  or  a  simple  heddle  and  batten  arrangement 
may  be  made,  as  in  the  above  description. 

In  making  a  pattern  care  must  be  taken  to  overlap  the  threads 
of  the  background  and  of  the  pattern  introduced  (see  Fig.  54). 


Fig.  54. 


PLATE    IX 


77 


LOOMS 


Cigar  box. 
Paper  box 


3.  Primitive. 

4.  Navajo. 


5.  Roller. 

6.  Woolman. 


7.   Roller. 


78  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

VL     Loom  for  Continuoos  Weaving 

Materials. — Cigar-box. — 2  wooden  rollers. — Nails. — Yarn. 

This  loom  will  be  found  too  difficult  for  very  young  children 
to  construct,  but  it  can  be  made  by  those  of  the  sixth  or 
seventh  grade.  The  principle  must  iirst  be  understood  and 
the  children  allowed  to  work  out  their  own  ideas.  One  roller 
is  used  for  the  warp  threads  and  the  other  is  the  roller  upon 
which  the  cloth  is  wound  after  being  woven.  The  warp 
threads  are  first  attached  to  the  cloth  roller,  then  passed 
through  the  heddle,  and  finally  fastened  to  the  warp  roller 
and  wound  upon  it.  The  threads  may  be  cut  any  length 
desired  for  the  continuous  piece  of  cloth.  The  weaving  is 
done  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  preceding  looms.  As  the 
cloth  is  woven  it  may  be  wound  upon  the  cloth  roller,  and  the 
warp  unwound  from  the  warp  roller.  The  plate  shows  the 
small  wire  handles  attached  to  the  rollers  for  this  purpose. 
Plate  IX,  No.  5,  shows  such  a  loom  made  from  a  cigar-box. 
The  Zuni  heddle  is  used  (see  Fig.  52)  and  a  piece  of  card- 
board for  shuttle.  Plate  IX,  No.  7,  also  shows  another 
method  of  construction  for  a  simple  frame  and  roller  loom. 

VII.    Manufactured  Looms 

There  are  several  good  looms  on  the  market  adapted  to 
school  purposes.  These  may  be  secured  at  the  kindergarten 
supi)ly  places,  or  directly  from  the  inventors.  Plate  IX, 
No.  6,  shows  the  Woolman  loom,  with  its  rollers,  shuttle, 
heddle,  etc.  The  uprights  may  be  removed  from  the  top 
of  the  box  cover,  and  the  whole  packed  neatly  within,  without 
disturbing  the  weaving  in  any  way. 


Weaving  79 

VIIL     Circulaf  Weaving 

Materials. — Circle  of  cardboard. — Raffia  or  rug  yarn. 

Plate  Mil,  Nos.  9,  lo,  and  ii,  shows  several  exami)les  of 
circular  weaving  which  have  not  been  removed  from  the 
cardboards  on  which  they  were  made. 

For  a  small  rug  cut  a  circle  of  cardboard  six  inches  in 
diameter,  and  one-quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  make 
a  row  of  holes.  It  is  necessary  to  have  an  uneven  number. 
Place  them  one-quarter  of  an  inch  apart.  In  the  centre 
of  the  cardboard  cut  a  hole  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 

Wind  the  warp  threads,  beginning  at  the  centre  hole.  Hold 
the  warp  in  position,  pass  it  over  the  upper  side  of  the  card, 
through  a  hole  at  the  edge,  around  the  back  of  the  card  and 
through  the  centre.  Continue  to  wind  back  and  forth,  pass- 
ing through  the  outer  row  of  holes  in  regular  order  and  back 
again  each  time  through  the  centre  hole. 

Begin  to  weave  at  the  centre  on  the  upper  side  of  the  card 
and  work  toward  the  edge  of  the  circle.  Be  careful  not  to 
draw  the  woof  too  tightly  in  going  over  and  under  the  warp. 

When  the  weaving  has  been  completed,  cut  the  threads  on 
the  back,  half-way  between  the  edge  and  the  centre  of  the 
cardboard.  The  ends  at  the  outer  edge  are  tied  together  to 
form  a  fringe,  and  those  at  the  centre  are  fastened  by  running 
them  into  the  weaving  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  mat. 

Small  pockets  may  be  made  by  weaving  on  both  sides  of 
the  cardboard  and  using  raffia  instead  of  wool.  In  making 
them  it  is  impossible  to  pass  the  warp  threads  of  raffia  through 
the  centre  hole;  instead,  a  brass  ring  is  placed  in  the  centre 
of  each  side,  and  the  warp  is  passed  from  side  to  side  through 
the  brass  rings  at  the  centre  and  over  the  outside  edge.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  have  a  row  of  holes  at  the  outer  edge  as  in 
the  circular  mat.  In  winding  the  warp  only  two-thirds  of 
the  circle  is  utilized,  and  in  the  weaving  the  woof  is  turned 
at  the  outside  thread  of  the  segment  of  circle  covered  (see 


80 


Ocaipatuni.s  for  I  J  t  tic  Fingers 


Fig-  55)-  Both  sides  of  ihc  circle  are  woven  in  this  way,  and 
the  cardboard  broken  for  removal.  A  braid  of  ratlia  may 
be  made  and  attached  to  the  sides  for  a  handle. 

W^eaving  may  also  be  done,  in  a  similar  manner,  ox'cr  a 
scjuare  of  cardboard.     Plate  VIII,  No.  12,  shows  a  bag  in 

process  of  making.  Arrange  a 
row  of  pins  across  the  top  of 
the  card,  about  one-cjuarter  of  an 
inch  apart,  allowing  half  of  the 
pin  to  extend  on  each  side  of 
the  card.  The  warp  threads  are 
wound  lengthwise  of  the  card, 
eacli  time  passing  around  the 
portion  of  the  pin  on  the  opposite 
side.  There  are  thus  two  sets  of 
warp  threads  and  the  bag  is  woven 
round  and  round  the  card.  When  the  row  of  pins  is  reached, 
remove  them,  and  a  set  of  loops  will  hold  the  woof  at  the  top 
and  complete  the  finish  of  the  bag.  Remove  the  cardboard. 
A  draw-string  of  another  color  may  be  introduced  in  the  weav- 
ing about  three-cjuarters  of  the  way  up. 


Fig.  55. 


CHAPTER  Vm 


BEAD   WORK 


There  is  perhaps  nothing  that  appeals  to  a  child  more  than 
the  bright-colored  beads  which  can  be  obtained  in  such  a 
variety  of  color  and  size.  Primitive  people  use  beads  for 
decoration  on  many  of  their  implements  of  peace  and  war. 
We  can  turn  to  our  American  Indians  for  inspiration,  as  to 
color,  design,  and  the  articles  to  be  made.  Their  manner  of 
working  and  their  methods  are  simple,  and  easily  carried  out 
by  the  child.  The  simplest  form  is  that  worked  on  chamois 
or  buckskin,  where  the  beads  are  strung  on  thread  and  sewed 
down  at  intervals. 

L     Moccasins 

Materials. — Chamois-skin. — Beads,  Nos.  2-0,  several  colors. 
— Linen  thread.  No.  70. — Needles,  No.  8. — Thimbles. 
Approximate  cost 03 

These  moccasins  can    be  made  in  any  size  desired,  the 
shape  being  the  same  in 
all  sizes  (see  Fig.  56).     If 
the  children  are  to  make 
them    to    fit    themselves, 
take  a  piece  of  paper  about 
twelve      inches 
scjuare,   fold    it 
in    half    and 
crease.      Open 
it  and  lay  it  on 
the  floor.   Have 
the  chikl  place 
the     centre     of       Tonfrne.  Fig.  50. 

Nl 


/     I       \ 
~  1       .        ) 

I       '        I  — 


82 


Occupafio/isJ'or  Lit  fie  Fingers 


his  foot  along  the  Hnc  creased,  with  the  heel  one  and  one-half 
inches  from  the  edge  of  the  paper.  Draw  around  the  foot 
with  a  pencil.  Put  the  paper  on  the  desk,  and  from  the  curve 
of  the  instep  around  the  toe  allow  one  inch.  From  the  instep 
draw  a  straight  hne  to  the  outside  of  the  square,  both  sides. 
From  the  heel  draw  a  curved  line  to  the  edge  of  the  paper 
about  two  inches  up  from  the  crease.  Parallel  with  the  top 
of  the  moccasin  cut  an  inch  slit  where  the  line  from  the 
toe  and  the  straight  line  meet.  This  forms  the  lap  in 
front.  The  tongue  is  a  straight  strip  with  one  end  rounded 
to  fit  into  the  toe.  To  find  the  length  for  this,  measure  from 
the  toe,  one  inch  from  the  end  of  the  foot,  to  the  top  of  the 
shoe,  and  for  width,  across  the  top  of  the  foot  at  the  instep. 
This  should  be  about  two  and  one-half  inches.  You  will 
now  have  a  perfect  pattern  to  work  from.  Cut  out  the  paper, 
lay  it  on  the  chamois,  and  cut  two  pieces  from  each  part  of 
the  pattern.  The  bead  work  is  done  on  the  tongue  only. 
Decide  on  the  pattern,  which  may  cover  the  whole  lower  part 
of  the  tongue,  or  be  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  rounded  end. 
Thread  the  needle  and  bring  it  through  to  the  upper  side. 

If  the  pattern  is  to  have  a  border,  put  that  on  first.     Put 
as  many  beads  as  are  necessary  to  make   the  width  on  the 

needle;  put  the  needle  through  to 
the  wrong  side  again,  on  a  direct 
line  from  where  it  came  out  and 
far  enough  in  advance  to  make  the 
beads  lie  flat.  Bring  the  needle 
again  to  the  outside,  making  a 
short  stitch  on  the  wrong;  thread 
on  the  same  number  of  beads  and 
put  the  needle  in  close  to  where  it 
^^^"  "'^'^-  came  out  on  the  first  row.     Con- 

tinue working  like  this  all  around  the  toe.  At  the  round  end 
the  lines  of  beads  will  be  slightly  crowded  together  on  the 
inside  and  fanned  out  on  the  outside  of  the  curve  (see  Fig.  57). 


Bead  Work-  83 

To  fill  the  centre,  start  at  the  upper  end  of  the  border  and 
work  across  to  the  other  side.  From  one  to  one  and  one- 
half  inches  of  beads  may  be  placed  on  the  needle  at  once  and 
sewed  to  the  chamois-skin  in  sections.  A  small  back  stitch 
is  taken  on  the  wrong  side  in  order  to  make  the  break  in  the 
line  of  beads  show  less.  After  the  bead  work  is  finished, 
gather  the  round  end  of  the  largest  j)iece  and  draw  it  up 
until  it  fits  the  round  end  of  the  tongue.  ^Measure  from 
the  straight  end  of  the  tongue  the  length  of  the  side  of  the 
moccasin  and  begin  sewing  from  that  point.  The  tongue 
is  sewed  in  on  the  wrong  side,  using  an  overhanding  stitch 
(see  Fig.  31).  The  back  of  the  moccasin  is  then  sewed  in 
the  same  manner.  Cut  a  row  of  slits  around  the  ankle  and 
run  in  strips  of  chamois  for  ties.  These  moccasins  can  also 
be  made  for  dolls  or  for  babies. 

II.    Bead  Belt 

Materials. — Chamois-skin  i^  x  23  inches. — Beads  Nos.  2-0, 
several  colors. — Linen  thread,  No.  70. — Needle,  No.  8. — 
Thimble.     Approximate  cost  per  child 03 

This  Indian  belt  may  be  made  for  the  children  to  wear. 
Cut  a  strip  of  chamois-skin  one  and  one-half  inches  wide  and 
long  enough  to  go  around  the  waist.  Find  the  centre  and 
measure  out  each  way  about  two  inches.  This  gives  the  space 
to  be  filled  with  beads.  Make  a  design  that  will  fit  in  that 
space,  and  sew  the  beads  on  in  a  manner  similar  to  the  moc- 
casins. The  design  may  cover  the  entire  width,  or,  if  in  the 
form  of  a  diamond  or  other  device,  it  may  be  placed  in  the 
centre  without  using  a  background  of  beads.  This  last 
method  is  simpler,  and  does  not  require  so  much  time  to 
accomplish.  The  ends  of  the  belt  may  have  narrow  strips 
of  chamois,  sewed  or  tied  in,  to  fasten  the  belt  together. 

Indian  dolls  may  have  their  clothing  decorated  with  this 
same  style  of  bead  work,  and  it  may  also  be  applied  to  tepees 
and  bags. 


84 


OccupdtKDi.sfor  I  jit  tic  P'nigcrs 


III.     Egyptian  Chains 

Materials. — Raffia,    3    strands. — Beads    E,    3    strings. — Ap- 
proximate cost  per  child 03 

These  httle  chains  are  very  attractive  and  make  good  work 
for  children  in  the  fourth  or  fifth  grade.  The  original  Egyp- 
tian chains  were  strung  on  fine  strands  of  braided  leather, 
but  raffia  makes  a  very  good  substitute 

Take  one  strand  of  raffia,  plain  or  colored,  and  divide  it  in 
thirds,  lengthwise.  From  the  fine  end  begin  stringing  on 
the  beads  until  they  cover  about  eight  inches  on  each  strand. 
Care  should  be  taken  not  to  wet  the 
raffia,  as  the  stiff  end  will  pass  through 
the  beads  much  more  readily.  Push  ten 
beads  to  within  one  and  one-half  inches  of 
the  large  end  of  the  raffia,  and  leaving  out 
one  bead,  thread  that  end  through  the 
remaining  nine.  Do  this  to  each  strand 
and  fasten  them  together  at  the  base  of 
these  beads  to  form  a  tassel.  Begin 
braiding,  holding  the  strands  out  at  right 
angles.  Braid  for  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
and  push  up  a  bead  on  each  outside 
strand.  Hold  them  in  place  and  con- 
tinue braiding,  pushing  up  two  beads 
every  quarter  of  an  inch  (see  Fig.  58). 
When  the  raffia  requires  piecing  push  the  large  end  up 
through  the  beads  that  remain  on  the  strand  to  be  pieced, 
and  lapping  the  ends,  continue  braiding;  these  ends  are  cut 
off  afterward.  When  the  chain  is  from  one  and  one-half  to 
two  yards  long,  finish  the  end  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
start  of  the  chain.  These  two  tassels  may  be  fastened  to- 
gether afterward. 


PLATE    X 


85 


occasin. 
:lt. 


i:kai)Work 

3-   P°"-    .         ,    .         5-   I5ead  portiere.     7.   Round  bead  chain. 
4.   Egyptian  chain.     6.  Bead  chains.        8.   Flat  bead  chain. 


9.    Fobs. 
10.  Daisy  chaii 


86 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


IV.     Bead  Curtain 

Materials. — Macrame  cord,  No.  i6,  3^  yards. — Large  glass 
beads. — Tapestry  needle,  No.  19.  Approximate  cost 
per  child 05 

Cut  the  cord  into  twelve  lengths  and  thread  one  end  of  a 
piece  into  the  needle  and  in  the  other  make  a  knot.     String 
on  one  bead  and  hold  in  place  with  an  overhand  knot.     About 
one  inch  from  the  knot  place  another  knot,  and  string  on 
another  bead.     Continue  in  this  way  until  within  three  inches 
of  the  end,  then  form  a  loop  to  slip  on  to  the  curtain-pole. 
Make  each  cord  in  the  same  way.     Patterns  may  be  worked  ' 
out  by  spacing  the  beads  and  knots  at  different  intervals.    Slip ' 
all  the  strings  on  the  pole,  which  may  be  made  of  a  dowel- ' 
stick  or  of  large  rattan.     Tie-backs  may  be  made  of  a  smaller ' 
cord  braided  with  beads,  the  same  as  in  the  Egyptian  chain.  ^ 


V.    Bead  Chain,  No.  \ 

Materials.  —  Four  or  five  strings  of  beads,  E.  —  Linen 
thread,  No.  70. — Needles,  No.  8.  ^Approximate  cost  per 
child 03 

This  is  simple  work  and  can  be  done  by  young  children. 
Thread  two  needles  with  linen  thread,  from  one 
and  one-half  to  two  yards  in  each  length.  Tic 
the  ends  of  the  threads  together,  and  begin 
stringing  the  beads  on  one  needle.  After  you 
have  fifteen  or  twenty  beads  on  one  thread  drop 
that  needle,  and  with  the  other  string  on  three 
beads.  Put  that  needle  through  the  fourth 
bead  on  the  other  string,  and  again  string  on 
three  beads  (see  Fig.  59).  Continue  in  this 
manner  until  the  chain  is  long  enough. 

A  variation  may  be  made  by  stringing  six 
beads  on  one  string  and  three  on  the  other, 

Fig.  59.        and  then  putting  the  needle  on  the  last  string, 


Bead  Work 


87 


Fig.  60. 


through  the  last  three  beads  on  the  first 
string.  Continue  working  until  the  chain 
is  of  sufficient  length.  The  threads 
change  place  at  each  loop,  the  right-hand 
one  becoming  the  left  (see  Fig.  60).  Two 
colors  may  be  introduced  by  using  one 
color  for  the  side  strings  and  another  for 
the  bar  across  the  chain. 


VL    Bead  Chain,  No.  2 

Materials. — Corset  lace,  i. — Four  or  Five 

?        strings    of    beads.    No.    2-0. — Linen 

\        thread.  No.  70. — Needle,  No.  8  or  No.  9.     Approximate 

i        cost  per  child 04 

'  This  chain  is  very  pretty,  and  is  simple  work.  It  differs 
from  the  two  described,  being  round  instead  of  flat.  Thread 
the  needle  with  the  linen  thread  and  fasten  it  to  one  end  of 
the  lace  and  on  it  string  ten  beads;  put  the  needle  through 
the  second  bead  and  string  on  three  more;  put  the  needle 
through  the  fourth  bead  ahead  of  the  last  one  it  passed  through. 
[Continue  in  this  manner  until  the  chain  is  the  desired  length. 
|If  two  colors  are  used,  have  the  last  three  beads  of  the  first 
irow  of  contrasting  color,  and  put  on  three  each  row  around, 
jbeginning  one  bead  ahead  each  time.  This  will  make  the 
stripe  twist.  To  finish  the  chain,  bring  the  two  ends  of  the 
lace  together  and  sew  firmly,  then  work  the  beads  over  this 
end.  A  tassel  of  beads  may  be  used  for  a  finish,  or  the  chains 
may  be  mounted  by  a  jeweller. 


VIL    Bead  Chain,  No.  3 

Materials. — Six  strings  of  beads,  No.  2-0. — Linen  thread,  No. 
70  and  No.  100. — Milliner's  needle.  No.  10. — Thimble. — 
Slate  frame  or  loom.     Approximate  cost  per  child. .   .05 

Almost  everyone  has  seen  or  made  one  of  the  wo\'cn  bead 


88  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

chains  that  have  been  worn  so  much  lately.  An  endless 
variety  of  these  chains  may  be  made,  but  the  underlying 
principles  are  the  same  in  all.  Cut  an  even  number  of 
strings  of  No.  70  linen  thread,  from  one  and  one-half  to  two 
yards  long — six  or  eight  strings  for  a  narrow  chain,  and  from 
eighteen  to  twenty-two  for  a  fob.  Fasten  these  strings 
together  and  if  a  loom  is  used  slip  one  into  each  notch  or  be- 
tween the  nails;  if  a  slate  or  caning  frame,  fasten  them  se- 
curely to  one  side  and  carry  them  directly  across  to  the 
opposite  side  and  tie  them  there.  Fasten  the  end  of  No. 
100  thread,  which  has  been  threaded  in  the  needle,  with  the 
others,  which  we  will  call  the  warp  threads.  Place  the  beads 
for  the  first  row  on  the  needle  (one  less  bead  than  the  number 
of  warp  threads),  and  hold  the  needle  under 
the  warp  threads,  a  bead  between  each.  Hold 
the  beads  in  position  with  the  first  finger  of 
the  left  hand  and  draw  the  needle  through 
them;  put  it  back  through  the  beads  in  the 
opposite  direction  and  on  top  of  the  warp 
threads.  It  is  better  to  work  from  right  to 
left  first,  and  then  from  left  to  right.  It  is 
always  best  to  have  an  uneven  number  of 
beads  so  as  to  give  a  centre  for  the  pattern. 

An  attractive  method  of  starting  a  fob  is 
with  a  piece  of  chamois-skin  about  six 
inches  long  and  one  inch  at  one  end,  slant- 
ing to  one-quarter  of  an  inch  at  the  other 
(see  Fig.  61).  The  warp  threads  for  the  fob 
are  cut  about  four  inches  longer  than  twice 
the  desired  length  of  the  finished  fob,  and  are  sewed  into' 
the  chamois-skin  at  the  wide  end.  A  turn  of  about  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  is  made  at  that  end  and  each  thread  is 
brought  up  through  this  and  taken  back  again,  leaving  the 
space  for  a  bead  between.  To  finish  tlie  fob,  tliread  each 
war])  thread   in  the  needle  and  siring  on  ])eads  for  fringe, 


Bead  Work 


89 


leave  out  the  end  bead  and  bring  the  needle  l>aek.  through 
the  others,  and  up  into  the  weaving  to  fasten. 

Cross-stitch  patterns   may  be   used   for  these  chains,   or 
the  children  may  design  them  themsehes. 


VIII.     Daisy  Chains 

Materials. — Chalk-white  beads,  No.  2-0,  3  or  4  strings. — Blue 
beads,  No.  2-0,  3  or  4  strings. — Yellow  beads.  No.  2-0,  2 
or  3  strings. — Linen  thread,  No.  70. — Long  eye  needle. 
No.  9  or  No.  ID.     Approximate  cost  per  child 06 

In  this  very  artistic  cliain  the  principle  is  different  from 
the  [)receding  ones,  as  all  the  work  is  done  with  one  thread. 
If  the  following  directions  are  carefully  noted  very  little 
trouble  will  be  found.  When  piecing  the  thread  it  is  best 
to  do  so  where  the  needle  goes  through  the  entire  daisy. 
The  new  thread  should  be  joined  to  the  old  with  a  weaver's 
knot  (see  Plate  I,  No.  9),  and  as  close  to  the  beads  as  possible. 

Thread  the  needle  and  wax  the  thread,  but  do  not  have 
it  too  long.  Put  on  three  white  beads  and  one  yellow,  then 
put  the  needle  through  the  first  white 
bead;  put  on  four  white  beads,  then  pass 
the  needle  through  all  the  beads  of  the 
daisy.  Take  up  two  blue,  then  one  white 
and  put  the  needle  through  the  blue  next 
to  the  white  bead.  Take  up  one  blue  bead 
and  put  the  needle  through  the  white  bead 
of  the  daisy  XX.  Turn  the  chain  and  put 
on  one  blue,  pass  the  needle  through  the 
blue,  and  put  on  one  white,  pass  the  needle 
through  the  white.  Turn  tlie  chain  and 
put  on  two  white  and  one  yellow,  pass  the  needle  through  the 
wliite.  Put  on  one  blue,  and  pass  the  needle  through  the  blue. 
Turn  the  chain  and  put  on  one  blue,  pass  the  needle  through 
the  blue,  and  put  on  one  white,  pass  the  needle  through  the 


Fig.  62. 


90  Occupatiom  for  Little  Fingers 

yellow.  Turn  the  chain  and  put  on  three  white  and  pass 
the  needle  through  all  the  beads  of  the  daisy  (see  Fig.  62). 
Then  put  on  one  blue,  pass  the  needle  through  the  blue,  and 
turn  the  chain  over  to  begin  a  new  daisy.  Put  on  one  white, 
and  pass  the  needle  through  the  blue  to  start  a  new  daisy.  Put 
on  one  blue,  and  pass  the  needle  through  one  white  of  the  old 
daisy.     Repeat  from  XX. 

It  is  well  in  putting  away  the  chain  to  stop  work  at  the  be- 
ginning of  a  new  daisy,  as  it  is  easier  to  pick  out  the  direc- 
tions from  that  point. 


CHAPTER  IX 

HOW  TO  FURNISH  A  DOLL'S  HOUSE 

Is  there  anything  that  appeals  to  the  heart  of  a  child  more 
than  a  doll's  house?  If  the  furniture,  rugs,  curtains,  pictures, 
and  other  decoration,  as  well  as  the  house,  can  be  made  by 
the  children,  the  pleasure  they  will  derive  will  be  even  greater 
than  in  one  furnished  by  someone  else.  All  children  love 
to  play  at  doing  the  same  as  their  elders,  whether  it  is  mother 
and  house-keeping,  or  father  at  the  store,  on  the  farm,  or  at 
the  office.  In  furnishing  the  house  many  things  may  be 
taught.  Economy,  hygienic  furnishing,  and  decoration  play 
a  part  in  the  scheme,  that  can  be  used  to  teach  the  children 
the  useful  lessons  that  will  mean  much  to  them  in  after  life. 

I.    The  House 

Materials. — i  large  box  or  2  small  ones. — A  few  wire  nails. — 
Moulding. — Hammer  and  saw. 

Obtain  a  wooden  box,  about  36  x  18  inches,  from  a  grocery 

I  or  a  dry-goods  store,  or,  if  a  large  one  is  not  to  be  had,  two 

i  small  ones  of  even  size.     Get  one  of  the  older  boys  to  fit  a 

i  partition  which  will  divide  the  house  into  two  rooms.     Cut  a 

doorway  in  this  partition,  for  we  must  have  communication 

between  the  rooms.     Cut  one  or  two  windows  in  each  room, 

and,  if  the  boys  are  very  ambitious,  let  them  fit  them  with 

glass;  this  will  make  the  house  more  reaHstic.     Purchase 

enough  narrow  moulding  to  go  around  the  top  of  the  house; 

this  makes  a  very  nice  finish  and  docs  not  add  very  much  to 

the  expense.     Your  house  is  now  ready  to  paint  or  stain  on 

the  outside  and  to  be  papered  on  the  inside.     In  choosing 

91 


92 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingei^s 


your  box  pick  out  one  that  is  smoothly  finished,  as  this  will 
save  trouble  later.  The  stain  or  paint  for  the  outside  may 
be  obtained  at  any  paint  store  for  about  fifteen  cents,  and  the 
children,  especially  the  boys,  will  enjoy  painting  it.  A  soft 
green  or  brown  will  be  found  the  best  for  this  purpose. 

After  the  house  is  finished  on  the  outside  choose  a  neutral 
color  for  the  wall  decoration.  An  ingrain  paper  will  do 
nicely,  and  the  children  can  design  and  stencil  a  border  for 
the  top.  When  the  floors  are  stained  the  house  will  be  fin- 
ished and  ready  to  be  furnished.  For  the  rugs,  see  the  chapter 
on  Weaving;  for  curtains,  see  the  description  of  lace  curtains 
and  Bagdad  portiere,  also  lined  portiere,  in  the  chapter  on 
Upholstery.  In  the  chapter  on  Coarse  Sewing  the  cushions 
and  table-covers  have  been  described.  In  the  chapter  on 
Paper  Folding  a  description  of  a  paper  screen  is  given;  this 
will  be  found  an  attractive  addition  to  the  doll's  house. 
This  leaves  the  furniture  and  wall  decoration  to  be  considered 
in  this  chapter. 


n 


IL    Doirs  Bed 

Materials.  —  Pasteboard  box. — Colored  cambric. —  Dotted 
Swiss  muslin. — Unbleached  muslin. — Long  cloth. — 
White  flannel. — Cotton  batting. — Colored  wool  and 
San  silk. — Needles,  No.  8. — Crewel  needles,  No.  3. 
—  Thimbles. 

The  foregoing  list  seems  rather  formidable,  but  so 
little  of  each  thing  is  needed  that  the  expense  is  very 
small.  Choose  a  box  that  will  be  in  good  proportion 
to  the  room.     This  is  to  be  covered  by  pasting  the 

colored  cambric  on  the 
sides  and  cover.  Stand 
the  cover  up  at  one  end 
of  the  box  and  sew  it 
firmly  (see  Fig.  63). 
Fig.  G3.  This    forms    the    bed- 


PLATE   XI 


93 


1.  Couch-cover. 

2.  Siiinll  riii<. 

3.  lied. 


FURNirUUF.   FOR   DOLI/S   HOUSE 


4.  Toilet-table. 

5.  Couch. 

6.  Arm-chair. 


7.  Table. 

8.  Table. 

9.  Willow  arm-chair. 


10.  Chair. 

11.  Passe-partout  picture. 


94  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

stead.  Make  a  ruffle  of  the  dotted  muslin,  the  hem  of  which 
may  be  run  with  the  mercerized  cotton  to  form  a  decoration, 
and  sew  it  around  the  box  at  the  top.  Cut  a  piece  of  musHn 
about  four  inches  wide,  and  long  enough  to  go  over  the  cover 
and  drop  to  the  bottom  of  the  box.  This  is  to  be  hemmed  all 
around,  using  the  same  width  hem  and  decoration  as  on  the 
ruffle.  This  piece  will  form  the  curtains,  and  is  to  be  fastened 
in  plaits  at  the  top  of  the  cover  and  drawn  down  and  fastened 
at  the  sides  where  box  and  cover  join.  The  bed  is  now  ready 
for  the  mattress,  pillow,  and  bedding.  Measure  the  box  and 
cut  two  pieces  of  unbleached  muslin  the  exact  size.  Seam 
these  together,  leaving  an  opening  at  one  side,  turn,  and  fill 
with  cotton;  sew  up  the  opening.  Make  the  pillow  in  the 
same  manner.  The  sheets  arc  to  be  made  of  the  long  cloth, 
or  any  other  soft-finished  cotton.  Cut  them  about  two  inches 
larger  than  the  box,  to  allow  for  hems  and  tucking  in  at  the 
sides.  Put  narrow  hems  on  each  side  and  one  end,  and  a 
one-half  inch  hem  at  the  other.  The  blankets  are  made  of 
soft  white  flannel  cut  the  same  size  as  the  finished  sheet  and 
worked  around  the  edge  with  an  even  or  uneven  blanket- 
stitch  (see  Fig.  23),  using  the  colored  wool  or  Poseidon.  The 
pillow-case  is  cut  twice  the  width  of  the  pillow,  with  the 
seams  allowed,  and  about  one  and  one-half  inches  longer. 
Turn  a  seam  on  each  side  of  the  muslin  and  overhand  it 
together,  explaining  to  the  child  that  pillow-cases  are  usually 
made  of  material  just  the  right  width,  and  therefore  the  sel- 
vages are  ovcrhandcd  together.  Make  a  narrow  seam  at 
the  top,  using  two  runs  and  a  back  stitch,  and  overcast  it; 
a  half-inch  hem  is  ])ut  in  the  other  end.  A  little  white  spread 
may  be  made  by  using  a  piece  of  an  old  towel,  and  either 
hemming  it  or  tying  in  a  fringe  as  described  under  Table- 
Cover  (Chapter  IV).  The  doll's  initials  might  be  worked 
in  with  cross-stitch,  using  red  or  blue  marking  cotton. 

This  little  bed  makes  very  good  cooperative  work,  as  sev- 
eral chiklren  can  be  working  on  it  at  the  same  time. 


How  to  Furnish  a  JJolVs  House 


95 


IIL    Toilet-Table 

Materials. — Pasteboard  box,  4  x  5  inches. — Colored  cambric. 
— Dotted  Swiss  niuslin. — Colored  San  silk. — White  cot- 
ton, No.  80. — Needle,  No.  8,  and  crewel  needle,  No.  4. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

Take  the  cover  from  the  box  and  cover  the  outside  of  it 
with  the  colored  cambric,  pasting  it  on  and  allowing  it  to 
run  over  the  edge  to  the  inside  of  the  cover.  Fasten  the  cover 
to  the  box,  which  has  been  turned  on  end  (see  Fig.  64). 
Cover  the  top  of  the  table  with  a  piece  of  dotted  Swiss,  sewing 
it  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  cover.  Make  a  ruffle  deep  enough 
to  fall  from  the  upper  edge  to  the  floor,  and  finish  it  with  a 
hem,  decorated  to 
match  the  valance  on 
the  bed.  The  muslin 
ruffle  should  have  about 
once  and  a  half  of  ful- 
ness. A  straight  piece 
of  the  colored  cambric, 
large  enough  to  go 
across  the  front  and 
ends  of  the  top,  and 
the  depth  of  the  ruffle, 
is  then  cut;  this  can  be 
hemmed  at  the  bottom 

or  cut  in  small  points.  Gather  the  ruffle  with  a  narrow 
heading  at  the  top,  turn  in  the  cambric,  and  fasten  them  to- 
gether. This  is  then  sewed  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  cover, 
and  the  table  is  finished.  A  little  pin-cushion  of  cambric 
covered  with  muslin,  and  having  a  ruffle  of  lace  around  it, 
may  be  added  to  the  top.  The  size  of  the  box  may  vary 
with  the  size  of  the  house.  Always  try  to  keep  the  right 
proportions  between  the  house  and  its  furnishings. 


Fig.  64. 


96  Occiqjaf  ions  for  Little  F'nt^rrs 


IV.     Box  Couch^  for  Dolls*  Dresses 

Materials. — Pasteboard  box,  3x7  inches. — Creloniie  or 
silkoline. — Colored  cambric. — White  cotton,  No.  80. — 
Needles,  No.  8. — Cotton  batting. — Thimbles.  Approxi- 
mate cost 04 

Choose  rather  a  heavy  box  and  take  the  sides  and  ends 
off  the  cover.  Lay  several  thicknesses  of  the  batting  on  top 
and  cover  it  with  the  cretonne,  both  sides.  For  this  cut  the 
piece  a  Kttle  more  than  twice  the  width  and  enough  longer  , 
to  turn  in  at  the  ends.  Turn  the  material  from  the  top 
over  to  the  under  side  of  the  cover.  Turn  in  the  other  edges  " 
and  overhand  together  at  the  ends  and  one  side,  the  other 
side  having  no  seam.  Line  the  inside  of  the  box  with  cam-  , 
brie,  pasting  it  in  place.  Let  this  run  over  the  upper  edge 
to  the  outside,  and  it  will  give  something  to  which  the  valance 
may  be  fastened.  Cut  a  piece  of  cretonne  the  depth  of  the 
box,  allowing  a  one-half  inch  hem  and  three  times  the  meas- 
ure of  the  entire  top  of  the  box.  After  this  is  hemmed,  plait 
it  in  small  box-plaits  and  fasten  it  to  the  top  of  the  box. 
The  lid  which  was  covered  first  is  now  tacked  on  at  the  back 
of  the  box,  so  that  it  will  open;  this  can  be  done  by  making 
several  button-holed  loops.  Make  some  small  sofa-cushions 
of  the  cretonne  to  place  on  the  couch. 

V.     Arm-Chair 

Materials.  —  Cardboard.  —  Cretonne.  —  Cotton  batting.  — 
White  thread,  No.  80.— Needles,  No.  8.— Thimljles. 

Cut  two  pieces  of  cardboard  (see  Fig.  65  a  and  h)  and  two 
pieces  of  heavy  paper  to  match.  Cut  four  pieces  of  cretonne 
the  same  shape  as  the  cardljoard  and  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
larger  all  around.  Lay  several  thicknesses  of  cotton  over 
the  cardboard,  and  lay  one  set  of  the  cretonne  pieces  on  these 
and  fasten  them  by  using  long  stitches  at  the  back  (see  Pin 


H()i<:  fu  Furnisli  n  Doll's  House 


97 


Ball,  Chapter  I\').  Fasten  the  other  i)ieces  of  cretonne  to  the 
paper  in  like  manner.  The  back  and  seat  of  the  chair  having 
the  cotton  padding  may  be  tufted  before  putting  the  pieces 
together.  Lay  the  two  sets  with  the  wrong  sides  together 
and  with  an  overhand  stitch  sew  around  both  pieces.  Cut 
a  little  strip  of  the  cretonne  three  inches  deep  and  nine 


Fig.  G.5. 

inches  long,  hem  it  at  the  bottom  and  sides,  box-plait  it, 
and  sew  it  to  the  front  of  the  piece  for  the  seat.  Tack  the 
back  of  the  seat  to  the  middle  back  of  the  chair  with  a  few 
strong  stitches.  Bring  the  arms  around,  and  fasten  them 
to  the  front  of  the  seat.  The  shape  of  this  chair  may  be  varied 
by  changing  the  dimensions  of  the  diagram. 


VL     Wicker  Table 

Materials. — No.  3  rattan,  6  pieces,  22  inches. — No.  3  rattan, 
I  piece,  12  inches. — No.  2  rattan,  i  weaver. — A  few 
strands  of  raffia.     Approximate  cost 03 

Any  child  wlio  has  woxcn  a  mat  with  rattan  can  make  a 
table  for  the  house,  as  the  principle  is  the  same.     Cross  the 


98 


Occupations  fo?^  Little  Fingers 


six  pieces  of  No.  3  rattan  in  the  centre,  three  and  three,  and 
lay  the  twelve-inch  piece  between  one  set.  Take  the  weaver 
of  No.  2,  which  has  been  well  soaked  to  make  it  pHable,  and 
hold  it  beneath  the  under  set  of  spokes  and  then  bring  it 
over  the  upper  set.  Pass  it  under  the  next  set  and  over  the 
next,  keeping  it  as  close  to  the  crossing  as  possible.  Do  this 
twice  around,  and  then  begin  to  separate  the  spokes  and  work 
them  singly  (see  Fig.  66).  If  this  is  done  carefully  the  weav- 
ing will  come  out  in  the  correct  way,  i.e.,  the  weaver  will  pass 
over  the  spoke  it  went  under  before,  and  under  the  spoke  it 
went  over  before.     Continue  in  this  manner  until  the  mat  is 

about  three  and  one-half  inches  in 
diameter.  Make  a  border  in  the 
following  manner:  Bring  spoke  No. 
I  over  the  next  spoke  to  the  right 
and  push  it  through  the  weaving  on 
the  under  side  of  the  mat  for  about 
three  or  four  rows.  Do  the  same 
thing  with  spoke  No.  2,  and  con- 
tinue it  around  the  entire  mat.  The 
last  spoke  will  go  through  the  loop 
formed  by  the  first  one.  When  all 
the  spokes  are  through  to  the  wrong 
side,  pull  them  taut;  this  will  tighten  the  border  and  make 
it  more  firm.  These  spokes  are  to  form  the  legs  of  the  table. 
Decide  whether  you  are  to  have  three  or  four  legs  and  group 
the  spokes  accordingly.  The  extra  one  can  be  cut  away  or 
bound  in  with  one  of  the  groups.  Even  the  legs  before  you 
begin  to  finish  them.  Take  a  weaver  of  rattan,  begin  at  the 
top  close  to  the  mat  and  wind  over  the  entire  length  of  the 
group,  leaving  a  small  space  between  each  winding.  At  the 
lower  end  take  a  half  hitch  (see  Fig.  5)  and  wind  back  to 
the  top;  filling  in  the  spaces,  fasten  it  off  by  running  the 
rattan  into  the  weaving.  Do  this  to  each  leg  or  group.  If 
the  table  has  four  legs,  a  smaller  mat  may  be  made,  and 


Fig.  66. 


Hoiv  to  FuDiish  a  DolTs  House  99 

fastened  in,  lower  down,  to  form  a  shelf.  If  it  has  three  legs, 
it  is  well  to  bind  them  together,  part  of  the  way  down,  as  that 
will  make  the  table  more  firm. 

Stools,  and  stands  for  flowers,  may  be  made  in  the  same 
manner,  by  cutting  the  spokes  a  few  inches  shorter,  and 
making  the  mat  smaller  in  diameter.  It  is  well  in  these  to 
bind  a  ring  of  rattan  inside  of  the  legs  about  half-way  down; 
this  will  help  to  strengthen  them.  Chairs  may  also  be  made 
by  cutting  one  of  the  spokes  about  seven  inches  longer  than 
the  others  and,  instead  of  binding  it  in  with  the  rest  to  form 
the  legs,  bring  the  two  long  ends  to  the  right  side  of  the  mat 
and  use  them  for  the  back  of  the  chair.  Insert  three  extra 
spokes  of  No.  3  rattan  between  these,  and  with  a  weaver 
No.  2,  weave  back  and  forth,  until  within  one  and  one-half 
inches  of  the  top  of  the  side  spokes.  Push  the  end  of  the 
weaver  down  beside  a  spoke  to  hold  it,  bend  the  two  outside 
spokes  over  so  that  they  cross  at  the  centre,  and  push  the  ends 
down  at  the  outside.  The  three  centre  spokes  are  to  be  cut 
off  even  with  the  weaving. 

Braided  rat^a  makes  a  pretty  weaver  and  is  a  little  easier 
for  children  to  use;  a  fine  three-strand  braid  is  the  best  for 
this  purpose. 

VII.     Arm-Chaif 

Materials. — No.  5  rattan,  i  piece,  8  inches. — No.  5  rattan, 
2  pieces,  5  inches. — No.  i  rattan,  6  pieces,  9  inches. — No. 
I  rattan,  28  pieces,  graduated,  2  of  each  from  10  to  18 
inches. — No.  i  rattan,  3  weavers.    Approximate  cost.  .05 

This  little  chair  is  more  difficult  to  make  than  the  pre- 
ceding one,  and  therefore  will  be  better  work  for  older  chil- 
dren, especially  boys. 

Bend  the  eight-inch  piece  of  No.  5  rattan  to  form  a  bow, 
and  tie  the  ends  together  with  a  piece  of  raffia  (see  Fig.  67  a). 
Tie  the  six  nine-inch  pieces  to  the  curxe  or  back  of  the  bow 
in  the  following  manner  •  Bring  one  end  over  the  piece  of  No. 


100 


Occ/tjMifionsJ'or  Little  Fingers 


5  rattan,  then  around  it  and  over  itself;  hold  the  short  end 
in  place  and  fasten  on  the  next  one,  which  will  go  over  the 
lirst  end  and  hold  it  in  position  (see  Fig.  67  h).  Continue 
until  you  have  tied  on  five  in  this  manner.  In  tying  on  the 
sixth  one  the  short  end  is  brought  over  in  the  opposite  way 
and  the  end  worked  into  the  knots  formed  by  the  others. 
Take  a  weaver  of  No.  i  rattan,  double  it  about  ten  inches 
from  one  end,  put  the  loop  thus  formed  around  one  outside 
spoke,  and  work  across  once  with  paired  weaving  (see  Fig. 
14).  After  this,  use  plain  weaving  until  the  seat  is  finished, 
i.e.,  until  the  ends  of  the  No.  5  rattan  are  reached.  Bend 
down  the  ends  of  the  long  spokes,  and  put  in  the  twenty-eight 


Fig.  67. 

pieces  of  No.  i  rattan.  These  are  to  graduate  from  ten 
inches  to  eighteen  inches,  and  are  to  form  the  back  and  arms 
of  the  chair;  they  must  be  put  in  with  that  idea  in  view. 
Begin  with  the  shortest,  and  gradually  increase  the  height 
until  the  middle  of  the  back  is  reached,  and  then  decrease 
toward  the  front.  These  extra  spokes  are  pushed  down 
between  the  weaving  close  to  the  piece  which  forms  the  edge 
of  the  seat,  and  are  spaced  alternately  first  one  weaver  apart, 
then  two  weavers.  They  are  pulled  through  even  with  the 
spokes  which  form  the  front  of  the  chair.  Insert  the  two 
five-inch  pieces  of  No.  5  rattan  at  each  side  of  the  front. 
Take  a  weaver  of  No.  i  rattan,  double  it  in  the  centre  and 
slip  it  over  one  of  these  spokes.     Put  four  rows  of  paired 


Hoiv  to  Fiirn'isJi  a  Doll's  House 


101 


weaving,  enclosing  two  spokes  at  a  time,  except  across  the 

front  where  the  spokes  are  worked  separately;  fasten  off  the 

weavers  by  working  them  into  the  weaving.     Insert  an  extra 

spoke  at  the  side  of  each  of  the  front  ones,  pushing  it  well  up 

into  the  weaving.     One-half  inch  below  the  last  row  put  in 

two   more   rows   of 

])airing.     Cross  the 

spokes  (see  Fig.  68) 

and  weave  two 

more  rows  to  form 

the    base    of   the 

chair.     Finish    the    //  |J|(  W  W         \(i 

base  with  the  fol- 

r  ic;.  OC5. 

lowing    border: 

Take  two  spokes  together  and  put  them  over  the  next  group 
to  the  right  and  then  inside  of  the  base;  do  this  all  around, 
bringing  the  last  set  through  the  loop  formed  by  the  first  set. 
After  the  chair  is  dry,  cut  these  spokes  off  to  within  one-half 
inch  of  the  border.  For  the  arms  and  back,  cross  the 
spokes  in  the  same  way  as  for  the  base;  double  a  weaver  of 

No.  I  rattan,  slip  it  over 
one  of  the  uprights  at  the 
front  of  the  chair,  and  put 
two  rows  of  pairing  about 


Fk;.  69. 


one  inch  from  the  seat. 
When  the  opposite  up- 
right is  reached  turn  the 
wea\x*rs,  and  weave  back, 
gradually  separating 
them  from  the  first  row 
to  form  the  high  back  (see  Fig.  69).  Before  coming  back 
with  the  third  row  cross  the  spokes  again  and  separate  the 
rows  as  before,  the  fourth  row  is  pressed  down  close  to  the 
third.  The  same  set  of  weavers  is  used  all  through  the 
upper  part  of  the  chair,  as  they  turn  and  come  back  each  time. 


102 


Occupations  f 01'  Little  Fingers 


The  top  is  to  be  finished  with  the  following  border:  Take 
each  group  and  put  it  back  of  the  next  group  to  the  right  and 
out;  do  this  all  around  the  top.  At  the  end  bring  the  last 
pair  all  the  way  around,  and  place  it  under  the  next  group 
to  the  right  and  up.  Continue  similarly  across  the  border. 
When  the  rattan  is  dry  cut  the  ends  to  within  one-half  inch 
of  the  weaving. 

Vni.     The  Pictures 

Materials. —  Perry    pictures.  —  Glass.  —  Cardboard.  —  Black 
or  white  paper  for  binding. 

The  Perry  pictures,  which  sell  for  half  a  cent  apiece,  make 
very  attractive  decoration  on  the  walls  of  the  doll's  house. 
They  can  be  framed  in  the  following  manner: 

Have  a  piece  of  glass  cut  the  exact  size  of  the  picture,  and 
cut  a  piece  of  cardboard  the  same  size.  The  strips  to  bind 
the  edges  should  be  about  one-half  inch  wide.  The  passe- 
partout binding  that  comes  prepared  for  mounting  is  about 
one  inch  wide;  this  can  be  cut  in  half, 
and  is  easier  to  use  than  that  which  is 
cut  from  a  sheet  of  paper.  Cut  two 
strips  the  exact  length  of  the  longest 
way  of  the  picture.  Have  the  glass, 
picture,  and  cardboard  fitted  care- 
fully together  and  lay  them  glass 
upward  on  the  table  or  desk.  Put 
the  paste  on  one  strip  and  lay  it  on 
the  glass,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  on  the 
edge  of  the  glass  and  the  rest  of  the 
paper  extending  over  the  edge.  Press 
it  down  carefully,  then  raise  the  glass, 
picture,  and  cardboard,  and  put  the 
paper  down  on  the  wrong  side,  pressing  it  over  the  edge 
as  snugly  as  possible.  Take  a  cloth  and  rub  it  quickly 
but  lightly,  the  whole  length,  for  several  times.     This  gives 


Fig.  70. 


How  to  Furnish  a  Doll's  House  103 

a  good  finish  to  the  edge.  Do  the  opposite  side  of  the 
picture  in  the  same  manner.  This  will  hold  the  materials 
together  firmly.  Next  cut  two  pieces  which  will  exactly  fit 
the  short  sides.  Before  putting  on  the  paste  lay  them  on  the 
glass  so  that  they  match  the  binding  on  the  other  sides,  and 
mark  the  corners  to  form  mitres.  Cut  off  this  small  point, 
and  one  a  little  larger  from  the  other  side  of  the  strip  (see  Fig. 
70).  Paste  these  strips  on  in  the  same  manner  as  the  first 
two.  The  corners  are  the  most  particular  part  of  the  work, 
but  if  care  is  taken  in  cutting  the  strips  to  have  them  the 
exact  length  of  the  glass,  very  little  trouble  will  be  found.  Al- 
ways paste  the  strips  of  paper  on  the  two  long  sides  first. 


CHAPTER  X 

SIMPLE   UPHOLSTERY   FOR   HOME   USE 

Workers  in  settlement  schools  have  for  some  years  been 
teaching  the  children  to  become  home-makers.  Simple  work 
in  upholstery,  when  presented  in  an  interesting  way,  offers 
unusual  facilities  in  this  direction,  and  certainly  develops  an 
amount  of  interest  in  home  things  which  cannot  fail  to  make 
the  child  more  helpful  and  useful  later  on  in  life.  The  work 
may  be  learned  in  a  very  simple  way,  in  relation  to  furnish- 
ings for  a  doll's  house.  Simplicity  in  furnishings,  cleanliness 
in  relation  to  choice  and  arrangement  of  materials,  adapta- 
tion of  things  to  use,  planning  with  relation  to  economy  of 
time  and  energy  in  their  cleaning,  may  be  incidentally  taught 
in  connection  with  the  upholstery  work. 

I.    Lace  Curtains 

Materials. — Cream-white  Brussels  net. — Unbleached  mer- 
cerized cotton. — Piece  of  rattan  for  pole.  Approximate 
cost  per  child 06 

Measure  the  windows  of  the  house  for  the  length  and  width 
of  the  curtains.  Turn  a  half-inch  hem  along  the  length  on 
one  side,  and  a  quarter-inch  on  the  other.  Use  the  mercerized 
cotton  double,  and  catch  the  hems  down  with  the  running  or  a 
fancy  stitch.  Turn  a  one-inch  hem  at  the  bottom,  and  finish 
in  like  manner.  The  top  may  be  finished  with  a  frill,  in  which 
case  turn  over  one  inch,  turn  in  one-quarter  of  an  inch,  and 
fasten  with  a  running-stitch  done  with  No.  60  cotton.     Put  an- 

104 


PLATE    XII 


105 


UPHOLSTERY 


1.  Lace  curtains. 

2.  Bagdad. 


3.  Lined  portiere. 

4.  Chair-cover. 


5.  Mattress. 

6.  Seat-cushion. 


106  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

other  row  of  stitches  one-quarter  of  an  inch  from  the  last,  to 
form  a  casing  for  the  pole.  Run  the  curtains  on  the  pole,  and 
make  the  tie-backs  of  cord  and  tassels.  If  no  frill  is  desired, 
a  casing  that  will  admit  the  pole  easily  is  made  at  the  top. 
Care  must  be  taken  to  have  the  curtains  made  in  pairs;  the 
cost  will  depend  on  the  size. 

11.     Bagdad  Curtain 

Materials. — Java  canvas,  2^  x  14  inches,  5  or  7  colors. — 2 
skeins  Poseidon  cotton. — Chenille  needles,  No.  2. — 
Thimbles.     Approximate  cost  per  child 11 

This  article  makes  excellent  cooperative  work,  as  five  or 
seven  children  can  work  in  a  group,  each  making  a  stripe  for 
the  curtain,  which  can  be  sewed  together  with  an  overhanding 
stitch  by  the  teacher. 

Turn  over  the  long  edges  of  each  strip  one-quarter  of  an 
inch,  baste,  and  fasten  it  down  with  an  overcasting  stitch 
(Fig.  32)  done  in  Poseidon  cotton.  Work  the  length  of  the 
strip,  then  turn  and  come  back,  crossing  the  stitches;  this 
forms  a  border  on  each  side.  The  decorations  through  the 
centre  should  be  left  as  far  as  possible  to  the  children,  as  they 
will  surely  make  some  primitive  designs.  These  designs  may 
be  worked  with  simple  stitches:  running,  back-stitching,  and 
the  cross-stitch  adapt  themselves  nicely  to  this  style  of 
decoration. 

Care  should  be  taken  in  choosing  the  colors  of  the  Java 
canvas  to  be  placed  together,  and  also  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  colors  for  decoration;  a  little  black  may  be  used 
effectively. 

In  joining  the  stripes  together  to  form  the  curtain,  arrange 
them  so  that  the  colors  harmonize. 

When  finished,  this  may  be  used  as  a  couch-cover  or  a  door- 
curtain  in  the  doll's  house. 


Simple  Upholstery  for  Home  Use  107 


III.     Lined  Portiere 

Materials. — Burlap  or  denim,  15  x  20  inches. — Single-faced 
Canton  flannel,  13  x  18  inches. — Sateen,  15  x  20  inches. — 
Hea\7  mercerized  cotton. — Black  San  silk. — 6  small 
brass  rings. — No.  60  white  cotton. — No.  8  needles. — No. 
6  crewel  needles.     Approximate  cost  per  child 10 

The  measures  given  above  make  a  curtain  of  good  propor- 
tions; but  if  it  is  to  be  used  in  a  certain  place,  let  the  children 
take  their  own  measurements. 

The  decoration  can  be  of  denim  applied  and  couched  on 
(see  Bag,  Chapter  III),  or  the  design  may  be  simply  couched  on 
the  material,  using  the  heavy  mercerized  cotton  and  San  silk. 
In  making  the  design  for  the  curtain  there  are  several  things  to 


Fig.  71. 

be  considered,  such  as  appropriateness,  space,  size,  and  use; 
combination  of  color  is  very  important,  and  harmony  with  the 
surroundings. 

After  the  decoration  has  been  placed  on  the  curtain,  put 
it  face  down  on  the  desk  or  table,  and  lay  the  piece  of  Canton 
flannel  on  top,  leaving  a  one-inch  margin  all  around.  Turn 
over  the  edge  of  the  outside  material,  pin  and  sew  down  to  the 
interlining  with  a  coarse  slanting  stitch.  The  corners  should 
be  mitred  (Fig.  71).  Lay  the  sateen  over  the  interlining,  turn 
in  the  edges,  leaving  a  half-inch  margin;   pin,  baste,  and 


108  Occitpat'iojis fo7^  Little  Fingers 

hem  down.  Finish  at  the  top  by  laying  six  plaits,  and  sew  on 
the  brass  rings  so  that  the  top  of  the  ring  touches  the  top  of 
the  curtain.  Rods  to  hang  them  on  can  be  made  of  dowel- 
sticks  cut  the  length  of  the  door-casing  and  stained  to  match 
the  wood  of  the  house.  Use  brass  screw-eyes  for  brackets;  a 
brass-headed  nail  will  make  a  nice  fmish  for  the  ends  of  the 
rods. 

IV.     Slip-covers 

Materials. — g  inches  of  narrow  striped  furniture-linen. — i 
piece  of  one-half  inch  tape. — No.  80  cotton.— No.  8 
needles. — Thimbles.     Approximate  cost  per  child. .   .10 

Covers  for  small  chairs  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner 
as  large-sized  ones.  Measure  the  depth  and  width  of  the  chair- 
seat  at  the  front  and  back,  and  cut  a  piece  of  paper  a  little 
larger.  Measure  the  back,  and  if  the  chair  has  arms  measure 
those  also,  and  cut  a  pattern  from  paper.  There  must  be  two 
pieces  for  the  back  and  each  arm — one  the  exact  size  and 
width  for  the  inside,  and  the  other  enough  longer  to  fall  below 
the  seat  nearly  to  the  floor,  for  the  outside.  The  same  amount 
must  be  added  to  the  front  of  the  seat,  and  can  either  be  cut 
on  or  joined  with  a  seam.  This  will  give  the  approximate 
size  and  shape  of  the  cover.  To  get  an  exact  fit  for  the 
chair,  cut  out  the  pieces  of  hnen,  using  the  pattern  (care 
should  be  exercised  here  to  have  children  cut  economically). 
Baste  the  short  back-  and  arm-pieces  to  the  back  and  sides 
of  the  seat,  and  the  front  piece,  if  that  has  been  cut  separately. 
Put  on  the  chair,  and  pin  the  long  pieces  for  the  back  and  arms 
to  the  other  pieces,  and  fit  around  any  irregularities  in  the 
chair.  Cut  the  back  up  through  the  centre,  and  if  there  is 
width  enough  lap  it  a  httle  at  the  top.  Finish  the  cover  all 
around  with  a  binding  of  narrow  tape,  and  sew  three  sets  of 
tapes  on  the  opening  at  the  back,  in  order  to  tie  it  together. 
Where  the  pieces  are  joined  to  the  seat,  the  seams  are  on  the 
wrong  side  of  the  material  and  should  be  back-stitched;  all 


i\ 


Simple  Upholstery  for  Home  Use  109 

the  other  seams  are  on  the  right  side  and  are  covered  by  the 
tape.  If  this  article  is  made  by  older  children  the  tape  may 
be  sewed  on  the  machine;  this  makes  an  excellent  lesson  in 
stitching. 

V.     Mattress  for  Doll's  Bed 

Materials. — Art-ticking  or  cretonne. — i  piece  of  ^-inch  tape. — 
Fine  cord  for  tufting. — Heavy  cable-cord  for  tufts. — Cot- 
ton or  hair. — Long,  slim  needle. — Thimbles.  Approx- 
imate cost  per  child 12 

Take  the  measure  of  the  bedstead,  and  cut  two  pieces  of 
cretonne  the  exact  size.  Cut  a  strip  one  inch  wide  and  twice 
the  length  of  the  first  piece,  plus  twice  the  width.  This  forms 
what  is  called  the  box  of  the  mattress,  and  is  to  be  basted 
around  one  of  the  first  pieces  cut,  with  the  seam  on  the  right 
side.  Join  the  strip  on  one  corner  with  the  seam  on  the  in- 
side. Baste  on  the  second  piece,  leaving  an  opening  of  about 
three  inches,  where  the  stuffing  is  to  be  put  in.  Bind  the 
seams  with  tape;  stitch  it  on  the  machine  or  run  it  on  by  hand. 

The  mattress  may  be  filled  with  hair,  cotton,  or  excelsior; 
it  should  be  stuffed  as  full  as  possible,  and  as  evenly,  espe- 
cially at  the  corners.  Join  the  opening  and  bind  it.  Before 
the  tufts  are  put  in,  divide  the  mattress  and  space  the  marks 
for  the  tufts  evenly;  these  may  be  put  in  in  diamonds  or 
squares.  Cut  the  cable-cord  into  inch  lengths;  it  will  take 
about  two  pieces  for  each  tuft.  Thread  a  long  piece  of  string 
into  the  needle,  and  put  it  through  at  the  first  mark  for  a  tuft; 
bring  it  back  again  to  the  place  where  it  went  in,  but  leave  a 
short  stitch  on  the  opposite  side  to  keep  the  string  from  pulling 
through.  Tie  the  ends  once,  pull  as  snug  as  possible,  lay  in  a 
tuft,  and  tie  with  the  square  knot  (see  Chapter  II).  Continue 
until  all  the  tufts  have  been  laid  in;  for  a  mattress  9x7  in- 
ches, twenty  tufts  will  be  enough. 

The  sides  are  held  in  place  in  the  following  manner:  Thread 
a  needle  with  a  long  string,  and  start  it  at  the  corner  tuft. 


110  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

Put  the  needle  in  on  the  slant,  bringing  it  out  in  the  box  (or 
side)  half-way  to  the  next  tuft ;  put  it  in  again,  leaving  a  short 
stitch,  and  come  out  at  the  next  tuft.  This  is  done  all  around 
the  mattress.  A  double  row  of  these  stitches  may  be  put  in, 
one  row  on  each  side;  this  is  not  necessary,  however,  where 
they  are  small.  Upholsterers  use  a  double-pointed  needle, 
but  these  would  be  rather  difficult  for  children  to  handle. 
These  mattresses  make  excellent  work  for  older  boys. 


VI.     Cushion  for  Chaii*  or  Scat 

Materials. — Unbleached  muslin. — Denim. — Excelsior  or 
cotton  batting. — Buttons  for  tufting. — Long,  slim  needle. 
— No.  50  white  cotton. — Silk  to  match  denim.  Approx- 
imate cost  per  child 05 

This  little  cushion  may  be  used  for  several  purposes,  such  as 
window-seats,  chair-cushions,  and  cosey-corners.  The  meas- 
ures are  taken  the  same  as  for  the  mattress,  and  the  pad  made 
in  like  manner,  using  unbleached  muslin  in  place  of  ticking, 
and  sewing  the  seams  on  the  inside  instead  of  the  outside. 
Use  excelsior  or  cotton  for  filling,  and  tuft,  using  Hnen  thread 
in  place  of  string.  Tie  the  ends  together  without  using  the 
tuft  of  cable-cord,  as  this  is  done  simply  to  indicate  the  position 
of  the  buttons,  which  are  put  on  after  the  outer  covering  is  in 
place.  Do  not  put  the  tufts  as  close  together  as  in  the  mat- 
tress. After  the  pad  is  finished,  take  the  measures  for  the 
outside.  These  consist  of  twice  the  width,  the  length,  and 
twice  the  height  of  the  box.  Allow  one  inch  on  all  measures 
for  the  tuck  which  is  to  be  taken  all  around  the  edge  of  the 
cushion.  Twice  the  height  of  the  box  must  also  be  added  to 
the  length.  Begin  at  the  short  side,  and  take  up  a  one-quarter 
inch  fold,  baste,  leaving  a  piece  for  the  box,  and  tuck  at  each 
end  (Fig.  72).  From  the  basting,  measure  out  the  width  of 
the  cushion,  allow  one-quarter  of  an  inch  tuck  and  baste; 
then  measure  out  the  width  of  the  box,  again  allow  a  tuck  and 


Simple  Ujj/iolstcTy  for  Home  Use  111 

baste;  then  the  width  of  the  cushion,  and  again  allow  a  tuck 
and  baste.  This  gives  the  covering  for  the  two  sides,  and  the 
boxes  at  the  side.  To  lit  the  cushion  to  the  pad  exactly, 
measure  on  the  long  side  the  height  of  the  box,  allow  a  tuck 
and  baste  only  between  the  tucks  formed  by  the  top  of 
the  cushion.  From 
that  basting  measure 
the  length  of  the  cush- 
ion; allow  a  tuck  at 
the  other  end  and 
baste.  These  tucks 
should  be  stitched  or 
run  after  they  are 
basted ;  the  corners 
should  be  cut  out,  and 
the  edges  turned  in 
and  stitched  together. 
Where  the  two  end- 
pieces  meet  they  can 
be  sHp-stitched.  Also  use  the  same  finish  at  the  side.  The 
buttons  are  put  in  at  the  last.  Thread  a  long,  slim  needle 
with  a  fine  string  or  Hnen  thread,  put  it  through  the  cushion 
from  the  under  side  where  the  tufts  have  been  made;  put 
the  needle  through  the  cloth  shank  of  the  button  and  down 
through  the  pad  again,  and  tie  the  ends  with  a  square  or  hard 
knot  (see  Hard  Knot,  Chapter  II). 


i ; 

} .J 

1                    • 

Fig.  72 


VIL     Cover  for  Pillows 

Materials. — Holland  linen. — Tape  or  buttons. — White  cotton, 
No.  8o.— Needles,  No.  8.— Thimble. 

These  covers  may  be  made  in  any  size  desired.  They  are 
to  cover  sofa-pillows,  in  order  to  keep  them  clean  in  summer, 
or  when  the  room  is  being  swept.  Take  a  piece  of  linen  the 
width  of  the  pillow  and  twice  its  length;   allow  one-half  inch 


112  Occupations  f 07^  Little  Fingers 

on  the  width  for  seams,  and  about  five  inches  on  the  length 
for  hems  and  lap  (these  measures  are  given  for  full-size  pil- 
lows). Fold  an  inch  hem  at  both  ends  of  the  strip,  and  stitch 
or  hem  by  hand.  Lay  the  strip  together  wrong  side  out,  let- 
ting one  end  extend  three  inches  beyond  the  other,  and  sew 
together  with  one-quarter  inch  seams.  Put  a  narrow  hem  cor- 
responding to  the  width  of  the  seam  on  the  three-inch  lap  for 
a  finish.  Turn  the  case  right  side  out  and  sew  on  three  sets 
of  tapes  to  tie,  or  make  three  or  four  button-holes  in  the  lap 
and  place  buttons  on  the  case. 


CHAPTER  XI 

CROCHETING   AND    KNITTING 

When  our  grandmothers  were  young  all  little  girls  were 
taught  to  knit  and  crochet,  for  all  the  family  stockings  and  mit- 
tens had  to  be  made  at  home.  It  was  not  possible  to  go  to  the 
stores  and  buy  them,  as  one  can  at  present.  Little  children 
in  foreign  countries  are  still  taught  to  knit,  and  it  is  quite  a 
common  sight  in  Holland  to  see  them  playing  in  the  streets 
with  their  knitting  in  their  hands. 

In  the  following  chapter  it  is  impossible  to  mention  all  the 
many  articles  that  can  be  made  with  simple  knitting  and  cro- 
cheting, so  only  a  few  suggestions  are  given,  which  will  prove 
interesting  to  the  children.  Any  directions  for  large-sized 
articles  may  be  used  for  dolls  by  making  them  just  half  size. 

I.    Doll's  Tam-o'-Shanter 

Materials. — Columbia   yarn,   \   hank. — Bone   crochet-hook, 
No.  4. — Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

If  the  children  have  made  the  chain-stitch  in  the  cord-work, 
it  will  be  very  easy  to  show  them  the  connection  between  it  and 
crocheting.  The  stitch  is  the  same,  but  a  needle  or  hook  is 
used  in  drawing  the  loop  through,  in  place  of  the  fingers.  Set 
up  a  chain  of  five  stitches  and  join  in  a  circle  by  drawing  the 
last  loop  through  the  first  one  made.  Then  begin  widening 
by  putting  two  stitches  in  every  stitch  for  two  rows  around. 
On  the  third  row  widen  every  other  stitch.  After  that  widen 
only  occasionally  in  order  to  keep  it  flat  and  round.  It  may 
be  worked  in  points  by  increasing  the  number  of  plain  stitches 

113 


114  Occupations  fo?^  Little  Fingei^^ 

between  the  widenings,  by  one  extra  stitch  each  row.  The 
needle  may  be  put  through  one  side  of  the  stitch  only  or  both, 
the  latter  will  make  it  a  little  firmer.  When  the  Tam  is  large 
enough,  make  two  rows  of  plain  crocheting  without  widening, 
then  begin  to  narrow.  This  is  done  by  placing  the  needle 
through  two  loops  instead  of  one,  and  puUing  the  new  loop 
through  both  at  once.  Narrow  every  third  stitch  until  the 
head  size  is  the  right  proportion  for  the  top,  then  crochet  three 

or  four  rows  plain.  Finish  by 
pulhng  the  finishing  end  through 
the  last  loop,  and  working  it  into 
the  crocheting.  A  little  ball  may 
be  made  for  the  top  in  the  follow- 
ing manner:  Cut  two  circles  of 
cardboard  about  one  inch  in 
diameter.  Make  a  hole  in  the 
centre  with  the  scissors  and  sew  the  wool  from  the  centre 
around  the  outside  of  the  cardboard  (see  Fig.  73).  Fill  as 
full  as  possible,  then  cut  the  wool  around  the  outside  edge, 
separate  the  cardboards,  and  tie  a  piece  of  wool  around  the 
centre.  Tear  out  the  cardboard  and  trim  the  ball  into  shape. 
Sew  it  to  the  top  of  the  Tam  with  the  end  of  wool  which  was 
used  to  tie  it  at  the  centre.  These  Tams  may  be  made  to  fit 
the  children  by  following  the  same  directions  and  working 
them  out  to  the  proper  size. 


IL    Doll's  Slipper 

Materials. — Columbia  yarn,  h  hank. — Lining  to  match  wool. 
— Eider-down  flannel,  white.  —  Cardboard. — Needle, 
No.  8. — White  cotton.  No.  70. — Thimble.  Approximate 
cost  per  child 06 

These  little  slippers  will  teach  a  slightly  different  method 
of  work  from  the  Tam  just  described,  as  the  work  is  done  from 
side  to  side  instead  of  around  in  a  circle. 


ri.ATK    XTTT 


11.", 


CROCHETING    AND   KNITTING 


1.  Tam-o'-Shaiiter. 

2.  Slippers. 


3.  Under  vest. 

4.  Baby  sack. 


5.  Scissors  protector. 

6.  Wash  cloth. 


7.  Doll's  hood. 

8.  Wristlets. 


9.  A f Khan. 
10.  Sweater. 


116 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


Fig.  74. 


Set  up  a  chain  of  six  stitches,  leave  out  the  last  stitch  made, 
and  crochet  into  the  next  two,  then  widen  in  the  next  and  then 
make  two  more  plain  stitches.     Take  an  extra  stitch  at  the 

end  of  each  row. 
Turn  the  work 
and  crochet  back, 
widening  in  the 
centre  stitch  each 
time.  In  order  to 
form  the  rib,  take 
up  the  side  of  the 
stitch  away  from 
you  each  row. 
Make  five  ribs  or 
ten  rows  of  cro- 
cheting; this  forms 
the  vamp  of  the 
slipper.  On  the  eleventh  row,  crochet  only  eight  stitches, 
and  rib  back  and  forth  for  thirteen  ribs,  or  until  the  slipper  is 
the  size  desired.  Join  this  finished  end  to  the  opposite  side  of 
the  vamp.  With  a  double  crochet,  i.e.,  throw- 
ing the  thread  around  the  needle  once,  pulHng 
it  through  one  loop,  and  then  through  two  (see 
Fig.  74),  work  around  the  upper  edge  of  the 
slipper,  catching  it  into  each  rib;  put  a  single 
stitch  between  each  double  one.  This  forms 
the  beading  for  a  ribbon  or  cord  and  tassel. 

For  the  border  put  four  double  crochet 
stitches  in  each  space  and  catch  them  down 
with  a  single  stitch. 

In  order  to  cut  the  sole,  shape  the  crocheted 
slipper  in  the  form  of  a  foot,  lay  it  on  the  card- 
board, and  draw  around  the  outside  (sec  Fig.  75).  Cut  it 
out  on  this  line;  cut  the  eider-down  the  same  size,  and  the 
lining  one-quarter  of  an  inch  larger  all  around.     Put  a  row 


Fig.  75. 


Crocheting  (uul  Kniffing  117 

of  gathering  around  the  lining,  slip  in  the  cardboard  and  sew 
in  the  same  way  as  the  pin-ball  (Chapter  IV).  Paste  the  eider- 
down tlannel  on  it  and  sew  the  slipper  to  the  sole  from  the 
wrong  side.  Turn  it,  and  finish  at  the  top  with  a  ribbon 
bow  and  elastic,  or  with  cord  and  balls. 

If  these  are  to  be  made  for  the  children  to  wear,  set  up  more 
stitches  in  starting,  and  increase  the  number  of  rows  in  the 
vamp  also  the  number  of  stitches  at  the  side  and  the  number 
of  rows. 

Lamb's-wool  soles  can  be  purchased  for  about  1 5  cents. 

III.     Doirs  Undervest 

Materials. — Saxony,  threefold,  ^  hank. — Bone  crochet-hook. 

No.  2. — White  baby-ribbon,  ^  yard. — Approximate  cost 

"  per  child 06 

This  Httle  undervest  is  very  attractive  when  finished,  and 
will  provide  good  work  for  the  children  in  teaching  them 
to  work  from  printed  or  written  directions,  which  can  be 
dictated  or  written  on  the  board.  If  the  directions  given 
below  are  followed  carefully,  the  work  will  be  found  quite 
easy. 

Set  up  eighty-six  stitches.  Make  six  rows  of  single  cro- 
chet, taking  up  the  back  of  the  stitch  and  working  lengthwise 
of  the  vest.  Work  one  side  first,  making  thirty-eight  stitches 
of  single  crochet.  Make  nineteen  rows  and  fasten  off.  Leave 
ten  stitches  on  the  long  band  for  the  neck  and  crochet  thirty- 
eight  stitches.  Crochet  nineteen  rows;  at  the  end  of  the 
nineteenth  row  make  a  chain  of  ten  stitches  for  the  neck. 
Join  it  to  the  other  side  and  make  six  rows  to  match  the  other 
shoulder.  Crochet  the  sides  together,  leaving  one  and  one- 
half  inches  for  the  armhole. 

To  finish  the  sleeve:  Make  one  double  crochet  into  the 
second  stitch,  and  one  double  crochet  into  the  first  stitch,  all 
around  the  opening.     Then  finish  all  around  the  sleeve  by 


118  Occupafio/isjbr  Little  Fingers 

making  one  single  crochet,  two  chain,  two  double  crochet  in 
the  same  stitch. 

Neck :  One  double  crochet,  one  chain-stitch  over  every  rib, 
and  then  finish  like  the  sleeve. 

IV.    Cover  for  Scissors-Protector 

Materials. — Florence  knitting-silk. — Steel  crochet-hook. — 
Small  cork.     Approximate  cost  per  child oi 

Set  up  a  chain  of  three  stitches,  join  it  same  as  the  Tam-o'- 
Shanter.  Crochet  several  rows,  widening  to  keep  it  fiat,  and 
taking  it  through  both  sides  of  the  stitch  at  once.  Make  this 
piece  large  enough  to  cover  the  small  end  of  the  cork;  then 
work  around  without  widening  until  it  is  deep  enough  for 
the  side.  Finish  it  off  by  drawing  the  last  stitch  through, 
leaving  an  end  of  silk  long  enough  to  run  through  the  last 
row  of  crocheting.  This  is  to  draw  the  case  up  after  placing 
it  over  the  cork.  Make  a  little  tassel  of  silk  and  sew  it  on 
where  the  work  was  started.  Slip  the  case  over  the  cork, 
draw  up  the  silk  and  fasten  off  with  a  few  stitches;  work  the 
end  into  the  crocheting. 

V.    Baby-Doirs  Sack 

Materials. — White  Saxony,  h  hank. — Colored  Saxony,  ^  hank. 
— Bone  crochet-hook,  No.  2.  Approximate  cost  per 
child 06 

The  yoke  of  this  little  sack  is  to  be  made  with  the  color, 
and  the  lower  part  with  the  white. 

Make  a  chain  of  thirty-three  stitches.  Three  rows  plain, 
single  crochet,  taking  up  back  of  stitch  to  form  rib.  In  the 
fourth  row  widen  on  eighth  and  tenth  stitches,  and  have  thir- 
teen stitches  between,  on  back  of  yoke.  Also  widen  on  the 
eighth  and  tenth  stitches  from  the  opposite  front. 

Widen  every  row,  having  first  two  stitches  between  the 
widenings,  then  four,  six,  eight,  ten,  twelve. 


CrocliL't'mg  (ukI  Kii'iltiiiij;  119 

Always  keep  thirteen  stitches  between  the  widenings  on  the 
back,  and  the  i'lrst  widenings  on  the  eighth  and  tenth  stitches 
from  the  fronts. 

Jacket :  Begin  with  a  shell  of  four  double  crochet  in  every 
third  stitch  of  the  yoke,  until  you  reach  the  first  j)oint  of  the 
yoke;  then  make  a  chain  of  nine  stitches  and  carry  it  on  to  the 
other  point  of  the  yoke,  with  a  shell  in  every  third  stitcli  until 
you  reach  the  third  point  of  the  yoke.  Make  a  chain  of  nine 
stitches,  carry  it  to  the  fourth  point  of  the  yoke^  join  with 
a  shell  and  make  a  shell  in  every  third  stitch  across  the  second 
front.  Make  a  chain  of  three  and  turn  and  put  shell  on  shell 
until  you  reach  the  chain  on  which  you  put  three  shells ;  then 
shell  on  shell  across  back,  three  shells  on  second  chain,  and  so 
on  across  the  second  front.  Make  the  jacket  eight  shells 
deep. 

Sleeve :  Join  in  the  wool  under  the  arm,  and  make  shell  on 
shell  on  jacket,  and  a  shell  in  every  third  stitch  of  the  yoke  from 
the  lirst  row,  seven  or  eight  shells  in  all.  Then  six  rows,  shell 
on  shell. 

Around  the  bottom  of  the  jacket  and  sleeves  put  a  row  of 
five  double-crochet  shells.  Around  the  neck  put  a  row  of 
holes  for  a  ribbon,  formed  by  one  double  crochet  and  one 
chain;  repeat  across  the  neck  and  finish  with  a  row  of  five 
double-crocliet  shells.  A  row  of  color  may  be  carried  all 
around  the  jacket  by  using  a  single  crochet  in  each  stitch  of 
the  shell. 

VI.     Spool-Knittmg 

Materials. — Empty  spool. — Pins  or  nails,  5  or  7. — Wire  hair- 
pin.— Colored  wool. 

Take  a  large  empty  spool  and  place  the  pins  at  regular 
intervals  around  the  hole  at  one  end.  Push  these  in  securely, 
as  quite  a  little  strain  will  come  on  them.  Thin  nails  with 
small  heads  may  be  used  in  place  of  pins. 

Take  the  odd  pieces  of  worsted  that  are  left  from  other 


120 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


work,  tie  them  together  and  wind  in  a  ball.  Pass  one  end  ; 
through  the  hole  from  the  end  where  the  pins  are,  and  i 
wind  the  worsted  twice  around  the  pins,  going  in  front  of  one  ; 
and  back  of  the  next  each  time  (see  Fig.  76).     Then  pass  the    | 

worsted  outside  of  all  1 
the  pins.  Take  the  i 
loop  that  is  on  each 
pin  and  slip  it  over  j 
the  head;  use  the  ; 
hairpin  for  this  pur-  j 
pose.  Keep  passing  't 
the  worsted  around  1 
the  outside  of  the  ; 
pins  and  sHpping  the  i 
stitches  off  in  regular  \ 
order.  This  knitting  ! 
may  be  made  in  long  : 
strips  and  used  for  ' 
horse-reins  and  mats,  or  in  short  strips  and  used  for  doll's  : 
golf-stockings.  To  finish  it  off:  Break  the  worsted,  leaving  ' 
about  ten  inches;  thread  the  end  in  the  needle  and  take  up 
the  stitches  from  pins.     Draw  them  up  and  fasten  securely. 


Fig. 


VII.    Wash-Cloth 

Materials. — Dexter  knitting-cotton,  No.  12. — 2  bone  knitting- 
needles.  No.  4.     Approximate  cost  per  child 02 

Set  up  forty  stitches  in  the  following  manner:  Make  a  loop, 
slip  it  on  the  left-hand  needle,  and  shp  the  right-hand  needle 
into  the  loop  from  front  to  back.  Put  the  cotton  over  the 
point  of  the  needle  from  underneath  and  draw  it  through  the 
loop.  Slip  the  loop  from  the  right-hand  needle  on  to  the  left. 
Put  the  right  needle  through  the  second  loop  and  do  the 
same  again.  Continue  until  enough  stitches  are  on  the  left- 
hand  needle  (see  Fig.  77,  a).     Having  the  required  number  of 


Crocheting  (uid  Knitting  121 

stitches  on  the  left-hand  needle,  put  the  right-hand  needle  into 
the  back  of  the  first  loop,  from  the  front  toward  the  back. 
Throw  the  cotton  over  the  needle  and  take  up  the  stitch  on  the 
right-hand  needle,  slipping  the  stitch  from  the  left-hand  one 
(see  Fig.  77,  b).  Repeat  until  all  the  stitches  are  on  the  right- 
hand  needle,  then  change  needles  and  proceed  as  before.  In 
plain  knitting  always  slip  off  the  first  stitch.  In  order  to  slip  a 
stitch,  slip  from  one  needle  to  the  other  without  knitting. 
Knit  back  and  forth  until  you  have  a  square,  then  bind  off  in 
the  following  manner:  Slip  the  first  stitch,  knit  the  second, 
and  with  the  point  of  the  left-hand  needle  slip  the  first  stitch 


Fig.  77. 

over  the  second,  leaving  one  stitch  on  the  needle  each  time. 
Knit  the  next  stitch  and  slip  the  one  on  the  needle  over  it= 
Continue  until  all  the  stitches  are  bound  off.  This  should 
be  done  rather  loosely  or  the  edge  will  draw. 

Put  an  edge  of  one  double  and  one  single  crochet  all  around. 
Then  make  a  scallop  of  four  or  five  double-crochet  stitches 
in  each  space,  catching  them  down  with  one  single  crochet- 
stitch  between  each  group. 

Little  afghans  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner  by  using 
two  colors  in  Saxony  yarn,  and  knitting  two  squares  the  same 
size.  These  arc  placed  together  and  a  scallop  put  around  the 
edge. 


122 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


VIIL    Doll's  Hood 

Materials. — Shetland  wool,  \  hank. — 2  bone  knitting-needles, 
No.  6.     Approximate  cost  per  child 04 

Set  up  forty-five  stitches  and  knit  back  and  forth  plain 
for  thirty  rows.  Bind  off  loosely.  Fold  the  two  sides  to  meet 
in  the  centre,  sew  them  together,  and  then  fold  the  sides  to- 
gether and  sew  at  both  ends  through  four  thicknesses  (see  Fig. 
78,  a,  b,  and  c).     Catch  together  the  points  of  the  two  seams 


L^  \'>^'^\\\\W'<k\\\\\  \ 


Fig.  78. 

just  sewed,  and  turn  so  that  the  scams  are  on  the  inside.  Fold 
back  the  front  of  the  cap  and  run  in  a  ribbon  at  the  back  to 
draw  it  in  at  the  nape  of  the  neck  and  to  form  the  strings. 
Place  a  little  bow  on  the  top. 

IX.    Wristlets 

Materials. — Columbia  yarn,  ^-  hank. — 2  bone  needles,  No.  4. 
Approximate  cost  per  child 05 

Set  up  thirty-six  stitches,  knit  two  and  purl  two.     To  purl, 
bring  the  wool  from  the  back  of  the  needle  to  the  front;  take 


C7'ochettng  and  Knitting  123 

up  a  stitch  with  the  right-hand  needle,  putting  it  in  from  the 
right  side  or  toward  the  knitter.  Throw  the  wool  over  the 
needle  from  the  back  toward  the  front,  draw  it  through  and 
slip  off  the  stitch.  Be  careful  always  to  carry  the  wool  back 
of  the  needle  before  beginning  to  knit  plain  again  after  purl- 
ing. After  finishing  one  row,  turn  the  work  and  begin  the 
next  row  by  shpping  the  first  stitch  and  knitting  the  second, 
then  purl  two  and  continue  as  in  the  first  row.  When  the 
wristlet  is  about  four  inches  deep  bind  it  off  loosely  and  sew  it 
together  on  the  sides. 

Two  colors  may  be  used,  putting  in  the  second  color  as  a 
border,  top  and  bottom. 

X,     Doirs  Sweater 

Materials. — White  Saxony,  \  hank. — Colored  Saxony,  \  hank. 
— 2  bone  knitting-needles.  No.  4  or  No.  2. — 2  steel  nee- 
dles. No.  16.     Approximate  cost  per  child 06 

This  little  sweater  is  very  attractive  and,  although  more 
compUcated  than  the  preceding  articles,  can  be  made  by  older 
children  with  very  little  trouble  if  the  following  directions  are 
carefully  noted : 

Set  up  thirty-two  stitches,  knit  two,  purl  two,  for  fifty  rows. 

Fifty-first  row :  Knit  two,  purl  two  for  eight  stitches,  bind 
off  sixteen  stitches,  knit  two,  purl  two  for  eight  stitches.  Knit 
the  first  eight  stitches  back  and  forth  in  rib  style,  two  and  two 
for  seven  rows.  With  an  extra  needle,  knit  on  the  opposite 
side  eight  stitches  until  you  have  four  rows;  bind  off.  Cast 
on  the  extra  needle  eight  stitches,  knit  back  and  forth  with 
rib  of  two  and  two  until  you  have  four  rows.  Join  this  small 
piece  to  the  body  by  casting  on  sixteen  stitches  to  correspond 
to  sixteen  stitches  which  were  bound  off.  Continue  with  rib 
of  two  until  you  have  fifty  rows. 

Collar :  Pick  up  the  stitches  around  the  neck,  and  with  color 
knit  one,  purl  one,  using  smaller  needles  for  two  rows,  then 


124  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

use  white  for  two  rows,  until  you  have  three  rows  white  and 
three  rows  color;  the  last  row  of  color  will  make  three  rows; 
then  bind  off. 

Sleeve :  Divide  the  body  in  half,  take  up  two  loops  on  each 
side,  knit  two  and  purl  two,  using  both  sides  of  the  stitch, 
making  eight  stitches.  At  the  end  of  the  row  pick  up  another 
stitch  and  in  this  loop  make  two  stitches,  knitting  across  again 
with  a  rib;  pick  up  the  loop  on  the  other  side,  making  in  it  two 
stitches  to  correspond  with  opposite  side.  Continue  thus, 
picking  up  a  loop  and  making  two  stitches  at  the  end  of  every 
row  until  you  have  thirty-two  stitches  on  the  needle,  then 
continue  plain  rib  of  two  and  two  until  you  have  twenty  rows. 
With  color  and  small  needles  knit  one,  purl  one,  knit  two  to- 
gether, and  so  on  across  the  needle,  turn  and  rib  one  and  one 
using  color,  same  as  in  the  collar.  The  sleeve  may  also  be 
made  by  taking  up  the  thirty-two  stitches  at  once,  and  knitting 
twenty  rows;  this  will  make  a  sleeve  without  any  fulness  at 
the  top.  Close  the  seam  from  the  edge  of  the  cuff  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  body  on  both  sides.  Crochet  loops  and  place  the 
buttons  on  the  shoulder. 


CHAPTER  XII 

SOME    SPECIAL    WORK    FOR    BOYS 

Boys'  occupations  must  at  times  differ  essentially  from 
those  presented  to  girls.  This  chapter  offers  some  special 
suggestions  for  them,  but  they  may  also  be  worked  out  by  the 
girls.  The  penknife  is  particularly  appealing  because  it 
presents  such  a  wide  field  for  experiment  and  exploration. 
Scissors,  and  the  mucilage-pot  follow  in  order,  and  help  to  add 
to  the  intensity  of  interest. 

The  nearer  the  approach  made  to  real  Hfe  in  the  articles 
produced,  the  greater  is  the  degree  of  attention  which  is  de- 
veloped in  the  boy.  With  wood,  hammer,  and  nails,  the 
scope  of  the  work  can  be  made  verj'  broad. 

The  following  articles  are  suggestive  and  ver}'^  easily  made. 
It  is  well,  as  far  as  possible,  to  allow  the  boys  to  carry  out 
their  original  ideas  in  regard  to  construction  and  decoration. 

L     Jacobus  Ladder 

Materials. — i  strip  of  heavy  paper,  3  yards  x  6  inches. 

The  Jacob's  ladder,  as  illustrated  in  Plate  XIV,  No.  i,  was 
a  favorite  pastime  of  children  a  decade  or  more  ago.  It  is 
easily  made,  and  a  particular  delight  to  boys. 

Roll  the  strip  of  paper,  which  may  be  composed  of  a  number 
of  colors  pasted  together,  into  a  hard  cylindrical  roll.  Paste 
the  end  to  keep  it  in  place.  With  a  sharp  penknife  cut  the 
roll,  as  shown  in  Fig.  79.     Care  must  be  taken  to  cut  only  half 

125 


126 


Occupations  for  lAttlc  Fingers 


way  through,  or, 
in  other  words, 
only  to  the  centre 
of  the  cyhndri- 
cal  roll.  Bend 
it  in  half,  as  in 
^.  Fig.  79,  and 
open  until  the 
centre  of  the  roll 
is  visible.  Take 
hold  of  the  top- 
most layer  of  pa- 
per in  the  centre 
and  pull  up  the  ladder,  which  is  formed  by  the  successive 
layers  of  paper. 

11.     The  Palm-Tree 

Materials. — i  strip  of  heavy  paper,  3  yards  x  6  inches. 

The  paper  tree  is  made  in  a  manner  similar  to  the 
Jacob's  ladder.  Roll  the  long  strip  of  paper  until  it 
forms  a  tight  cylindrical  roll.  After  the  end  of  the  strip 
has  been   glued,  the  roll  is  prepared  for  cutting.     This  is 

done  from  the 
end  instead  of 
the  middle,  and 
only  one  cut  is 
necessary.  Fig. 
80  shows  the  roll 
and  the  line 
marked  for  cut- 
ting.  The 
length  of  the  cut 
should  be  half 
the  depth  of  the 
whole  roll. 


lOi 


u 


Fig.  80. 


PLATE   XIV 


127 


1.  Jacob's  Ladder 

2.  Palm-tree. 


WwKK    FUK    l;()VS 

3.  Soldier  Cap  and  I'paulets. 

4.  Kite. 


5.  Marble-bag. 

6.  Ball-cover. 


7.   bail-boat. 


128 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


Turn  the  pieces  cut  back  in  position  (sec  Fig.  80  6)  and 
pull  out  the  tree  by  taking  hold  of  the  innermost  layer  of 
paper.  Plate  XIV,  No.  2,  shows  a  tree  which  has  been  made 
from  newspaper. 

III.     Soldier  Hat  and  Epaulets 

il/a/ma/5.— Sheets  of  colored  paper  or  newspaper. 

Hat:  Take  two  sheets  of  paper,  sixteen  by  twelve  inches, 
and  place  one  exactly  on  top  of  the  other.  The  hat  is  stronger 
because  of  the  two  thicknesses,  but  it  may  be  made  of  only 
one.  If  a  larger  hat  is  desired,  the 
proportions  must  be  the  same;  it 
may  be  decreased  in  a  similar  way. 
After  placing  the  two  pieces  exactly 
together  so  that  it  appears  as  one 
double  sheet,  fold  it  until  the  two 
twelve-inch  edges  lie  on  each  other. 
Place  the  paper  so  that  the  folded 
edge  is  away  from  the  worker.  The 
right-  and  left-hand  corners  of  this 
folded  edge  are  to  be  turned  down 
(see  Fig.  81  a).  After  folding  the 
point  of  the  hat  in  this  way,  turn  up 
the  finishing  band  at  the  bottom  to 
complete  the  fold.  This  band  is 
folded  over  twice,  and  half  is  turned  to  each  side  of  the  hat 
(see  Fig.  81  6).  The  ends  may  be  finished  by  gluing  them 
together  or  pinning  them  in  place. 

A  pompon  may  be  added  by  taking  a  strip  of  paper  and 
clipping  it  with  the  scissors  to  make  a  fringe.  This  can  then 
be  rolled  in  a  cylinder  to  form  the  pompon.  Pin  or  sew  to 
the  point  of  the  hat. 

Epaulets:  Cut  a  pattern  according  to  the  size  of  the 
epaulets  desired.     The  shape  should  be  similar  to  Fig.  82. 


Fig.  81. 


Soinc  Special  Jf^orli  j'oi-  liinjs 


1-29 


After  cutting  the  correct  size,  prepare  several  thicknesses 
of  the  same  shape  for  each  epaulet.  Sew  through  the 
middle  of  each  with  a  herringbone  -  stitch,  using  some 
bright  worsted,  and  clip  the  fringe  with 
the  scissors  (sec  Fig.  82). 

IV.     A  Baseball  Cover 

Materials. — Heavy  felt. — Waxed  twine  or 
thread. 

There  are  several  ways  of  covering  a 
ball,  but  only  two  of  the  more  simple 
methods  are  described  below. 

Measure  the  circumference  of  the  ball 
and  cut  a  paper  pattern  according  to  the  shape  in  Fig.  83  a, 
using  three-fourths  of  this  measurement  for  the  length  and 
one-fourth  for  the  width   in  the  centre.     Two  such  pieces 


Fig.  82. 


Fig.  83. 


will  be  necessary  for  the  cover,  and  the  pattern  will  have  to 
be  fitted  until  it  exactly  covers  the  surface  of  the  ball  (see 
2>2,  a).     The  cover  is  then  ready  to  be  sewed. 


Fig 


130 


Occupations!  for  Little  Fingers 


Another  way  to  prepare  it  is  to 
cut  two  circles  of  felt  and  one  strip, 
which  must  exactly  measure  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  ball.  One-third 
of  the  circumference  will  give  the  di- 
ameter for  the  circles.  Cut  the  strip 
from  two  to  two  and  one-half  inches 
wide,  or  according  to  the  size  of  the 
ball.  Sew  it  together  first  and  then 
add  the  circles. 

The  drawing-in  stitch  is  used  for 
the  sewing  of  both  covers.  This  is  a 
simple  alternating  stitch  and  has  the 
effect  of  a  lacing.  For  the  cover  it 
is  taken  in  a  slanting  way  and  a  space  of  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  is  left  between  the  stitches  on  each  side  of  the  edge  (see 
Fig.  84).  The  needle  is  put  under  the  edge  first  to  the  right 
and  then  to  the  left  of  the  opening,  pointing  it  toward  the 
worker. 


Fig.  .s4. 


V.     Paper  Kite 

Materials. — 2  flat  sticks,   11  x  |-  inches. — i  flat  stick,  8  x  ^ 
inches. — I   sheet  of  newspaper 
or  heavy  brown  paper. — Twine 
and  glue. 

The  three  sticks  must  be  bound 
together  in  such  a  way  that  the  kite 
will  be  well  balanced.  The  propor- 
tion is  about  one-third  above  and 
two-thirds  below  the  crossing  of  the 
third  stick  (see  Fig.  85).  Two  may 
be  tied  together  first  and  the  shorter 
one  bound  to  the  others.  In  the  enrl 
of  each  stick  cut  a  slight  groove  and 
liind  the  sticks  tocjether  with  a  cord  l"i<-i.  <S5. 


Some  S])ccl(t1  Jf^or/i  for  Bo  us 


131 


(see  Fig.  85).  When  ihc  frame  is  ready,  la}-  il  on  the  jjaper 
and  cut  out  the  kite  covering — allow  one  inch  on  all  sides  for 
turnings.  Fold  this  allowance  over  the  cord  and  paste  it 
down.  For  the  tail  a  number  of  rolls  of  paper  two  and  one- 
half  inches  in  length  may  be  tied  together,  leaving  a  space  of 
about  two  inches  between  each  roll.  The  tail  is  attached 
to  the  centre  of  the  balance  cord  at  the  bottom  of  the  kite. 
This  cord  is  put  on  by  making  holes  in  the  paper  and  tying 
the  string  around  the  two  bottom  sticks;  about  twelve  inches 


Fir.,  so. 


of  cord  are  required  for  this  purpose  (see  Fig.  86).  The  cord 
for  flying  must  be  attached  as  follows:  One  inch  from  the 
top  of  the  kite  tie  the  upper  cord  «;  this  is  six  inches  in 
length,  and  the  ends  are  attached  to  the  two  upper  sticks. 
Cord  h  is  attached  to  the  two  lower  sticks,  and  is  a  trifle 
longer  than  cord  a.  Eight  inches  is  a  good  length  in  pro- 
portion. 

Attach  a  and  h  with  cord  c,  which  is  six  inches  in  length, 
and  allows  for  the  pulling  of  the  kite.     The  fly  string  is  at- 


132  Occupations  f 07^  Little  Fingers 

tached  to  c,  and  should  be  put  on  with  a  slipknot,  so  that 
the  kite  may  be  balanced  in  flying.  This  will  depend  on  the 
weight  of  the  tail  (see  Fig.  86). 


VI.     Indian  Tents 

Materials. — Unbleached    musHn.  —  3     sticks. — Water-color 
paints. 

For  the  small  tent  shown  in  Plate  XV,  No.  4,  three  sticks, 
ten  inches  in  length,  have  been  used.  These  may  be  bound 
together  loosely  four  inches  from  the  top. 

A  circle  of  muslin,  sixteen  inches  in  diameter,  will  make 
two  tents.     Cut  the  circle  in  half  and  remove  a  small  segment 
from  each  side  of  the  half  (see  Fig.  87).     Cut  a  small  semi- 
circular piece  from  the  centre 
of  the  original  circle,  according 
to  Fig.  87.     The  tent  shape  is 
then  prepared  ready  for  deco- 
ration.    The   design   may  be 
sketched  in  pencil  on  the  mus- 
Pj(j  37  lin  and  decorated  with  water- 

colors.  Plate  XV,  No.  4, 
shows  a  simple  decoration  made  by  a  child.  The  tent  n>ay 
be  laced  together  for  a  short  distance  at  the  top  with  a  strip 
of  unbleached  muslin. 

The  tents  may  be  made  any  size  by  piecing  the  muslin  in 
strips  accordmg  to  the  width  desired.  Three  breadths  of 
unbleached  muslin,  three  yards  in  length,  will  make  a  good- 
size  tent.  They  are,  of  course,  only  play  tents,  but  afford 
much  pleasure.  Cut  five  poles  about  five  feet  in  height. 
Point  the  large  ends  and  stick  them  in  the  ground  so  that 
they  meet  at  the  top.  Drape  the  cloth  about  them,  and  lace 
at  the  top  as  described. 


PLATE   XV 


133 


WORK    FOR    BUYS 


1.  Indian  Headdress 

2.  Indian  Belt. 


3.  Doll. 

4.  1  epee. 


5.  Row. 

6.  Arrow. 


134  Occupations  f 07'  Little  Fingers 


VII.     Indian  Head-Dress 

Materials. — i  strip  of  Turkey-red,  i  yard  x  4  inches, — Chicken 
feathers. — Large  beads,  2  strings. 

Prepare  the  strip  of  Turkey-red  by  folding  under  the  raw 
edges  until  they  lap.  Baste,  until  the  sewing  of  the  beads 
holds  them  in  place.  Measure  the  head  size  of  the  child  by 
putting  the  prepared  band  around  the  forehead,  and  crossing 
it  in  the  back.     The  extra  length  is  allowed  to  hang. 

For  the  decoration,  old  ostrich  plumes  or  chicken  feathers 
may  be  used,  or  even  an  old  feather-duster.  Sew  the  feathers 
close  together  and  put  the  ends  of  the  quills  on  the  inside  of 
the  band.  Decorate  the  band  with  the  beads.  String  from 
six  to  ten  of  assorted  colors  on  a  strong  thread  and  then  take 
a  stitch  through  the  material.  This  Indian  method  of  work 
has  been  described  in  the  chapter  on  Bead- work  (Fig.  57). 

Any  extra  decoration  of  bead-work,  or  other  arrangement  of 
feathers  may  be  used.  The  strip  may  be  made  two  or  three 
yards  in  length,  and  the  feathers  sewed  so  as  to  form  a  head- 
dress which  will  extend  to  the  feet. 

A  belt  may  be  made  in  a  similar  way,  by  measuring  the  size 
of  the  waist  and  having  the  feathers  arranged  to  hang  down 
about  it. 

VIIL    Indian  Doll 

Materials. — Unbleached  muslin. — Sawdust. — Paint-box. 

Cut  a  pattern  for  the  shape  of  the  doll  by  doubling  a  sheet 
of  paper  and  cutting  a  doll  as  described  in  the  chapter  on 
Paper-cutting.  Cut  two  pieces  of  unbleached  muslin  the 
shape  of  the  pattern,  and  sew  them  togctlier  all  around  except 
on  the  upper  side  of  one  arm  and  one  side  of  the  head.  Turn 
inside  out  and  stuff  with  sawdust.  Sew  up  the  opening  left, 
with  an  overhand  stitch. 

Paint  the  face  light  brown,  and  the  eyes,  eyebrows,  etc., 


Some  Special  Work  for  Boys 


135 


Fig.  88. 


black.  The  doll  is  now  ready  to  be  dressed.  The  trousers 
are  cut  from  a  square  piece  of  material  (see  Fig.  88).  Cut 
two  squares  of  the  same  size  and  remove  the  pieces  of  mate- 
rial at  the  inner  curve  of  the  leg.  Sew  the  two  thicknesses  to- 
gether around  the  curve  and  turn. 
Sew  up  the  outside  seam  with  run- 
ning stitches  taken  one  inch  from 
the  edge  and  on  the  right  side  of  the 
trousers.  Fringe  the  outside  and 
bottom  of  each  leg  and  decorate 
with  colored  paint. 

The  coat  is  also  made  from  a 
square  piece  of  unbleached  cloth. 
Cut  a  pattern  from  paper  first  (see 
Fig.  89)  to  fit  the  size  of  the  doll. 

Cut  the  musHn  according  to  the  pattern.     A  and  h  of  the 
figure  are  the  sleeve  portions,  and  the  coat  is  to  be  folded  on 

the  dotted  line.  Sew  the 
sleeves  and  under-arm  seam 
on  the  right  side,  one  inch 
from  the  edge.  Clip  with 
the  scissors  to  form  a  fringe 
all  around  the  coat,  with  the 
exception  of  the  neck  and 
down  the  front.  A  red  yarn 
may  be  used  for  further 
decoration,  and  the  fringe 
and  coat  painted  with  the 
water-colors  to  match  the 
trousers.  Cut  out  the  neck 
size  and  punch  three  or  four  holes  along  each  front  of  the 
coat  and  lace  with  the  yarn. 

The  head-dress  is  made  of  a  strip  of  muslin  clipped  to 
form  a  fringe  and  then  painted.  The  strip  is  sewed  around 
the  doll's  forehead. 


a     =i-  -  . 


Fig.  89. 


136  Occupatiofis  for  Little  Fingers 

IX.     Marble  Bag 

Materials. — Denim,  i6  x  5^  inches. — Poseidon,  or   ribbon, 
I  yard. 

Double  the  oblong  of  denim  so  that  the  two  right  sides  of 
the  material  are  together.  Seam  both  sides  to  within  two  and 
three-quarter  inches  of  the  top,  allowing  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
for  seams  and  using  a  stitching  stitch  (see  Fig.  t,2>)-  Turn  the 
bag  right  side  out.  Bring  one  and  one-half  inches  of  the  head- 
ing to  the  right  side  and  seam  for  one  inch  at  each  end.  There 
will  be  four  such  seams.  Turn  the  four  seams  just  sewed  in- 
side out  so  that  the  raw  edges  come  within.  Turn  the  bag 
again  to  the  wrong  side  and  hem,  after  making  a  turning  of 
one-quarter  of  an  inch.  One-quarter  of  an  inch  above  the 
hemming  make  a  row  of  running  stitches  to  form  a  casing. 
Run  in  the  cord  and  tie  the  ends  with  an  overhand  knot.  A 
marble  bag  has  only  one  draw-string. 


X,     Bow  and  Arrow 

Materials. — i  piece  of  |-inch  pine,  20  inches. — i  piece  of  flat 
ash,  28  X  |-  X  f  inches. 

The  Indians  in  calculating  for  the  length  of  their  bows 
measure  eight  times  the  span  of  the  hand.  This  measurement 
is  from  the  end  of  the  thumb  across  the  palm  to  the  end  of  the 
little  finger.  The  arrow  is  the  length  of  the  arm  from  the 
thumb-nail  to  the  armpit.     Find  the  middle  of  the  twenty- 


FiG.  90. 

eight-inch  piece  of  ash  which  is  for  the  bow.  With  a  knife 
gradually  narrow  the  width  of  the  stick  from  the  centre 
toward  each  end.  Do  not  make  it  less  than  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  in  width  at  the  narrowest  part.  Cut  some  kind  of  a 
fancy  shape  at  each  end  of  the  bow   (see  Fig.  90),  and  use 


Some  Special  Work  for  Boys  137 

sand-paper  to  smooth  the  surface.  After  linishing  the  out- 
line, the  upper  side  may  be  decorated  with  fancy  cutting,  or 
paints  used  to  make  it  more  ornate.  Tie  a  string  around  the 
neck  formed  at  one  end  and  bend  the  bow  to  the  right  curve. 
Measure  the  length  of  the  cord  necessary  to  cross  the  bow 
and  make  a  loop  at  the  other  end.  The  loop  may  be  slipped 
around  the  neck  at  the  opposite  end  when  it  is  curved,  or  re- 
moved when  the  bow  is  not  in  use. 

The  arrow:  Whittle  the  four  edges  of  the  twenty-inch 
stick  until  it  is  round.  The  diameter  of  the  stick  at  one  end 
for  about  two  inches  in  length  should  be  one-half  of  an  inch, 
and  gradually  slope  to  the  diameter  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
for  the  other  eighteen  inches.  Smooth  with  sand-paper  and 
cut  a  slight  groove  in  the  small  end  for  the  cord. 

XL     Sail-boat  Furnishings 

Any  sail-boat  which  is  available  may  be  rigged  and  equipped 
by  the  children.     It  makes  excellent  cooperative  work. 

The  pattern  must  first  be  cut  the  size  of  the  sails  desired. 
These  are  made  of  cotton  tape  from  one  to  one  and  one- 
half  inches  in  width.  Baste  the  tape  to  the  pattern  in  rows, 
having  the  edge  of  the  tape  on  the  outside  of  the  sail  pattern 
— the  side  away  from  the  mast.  Baste  the  other 
rows  parallel  to  the  first  and  lap  each  successive 
one  one-fourth  of  an  inch  over  the  previous  row. 
Hem  all  the  rows  flat.  Remove  the  bastings, 
turn  the  sail  to  the  other  side  and  hem.  This  is 
called  counter-hemming.  Three  sides  of  the 
large  sail  are  to  be  hemmed  with  one-eighth  of 
an  inch  hem;  the  fourth  side  is  the  selvage.  The 
jib  may  be  prepared  in  a  similar  way  to  the 
main-sail.  * 

The  boat  may  be    furnished  with  sand-bags       '% 
for  ballast,  cushions,  and  bumpers.    They  should       Fig.  91. 


138 


Occupations  for  Little  Finge7's 


iC^  be  made  in  proportion  to  the  size 

of  the  boat. 

The   cushions   should   be   cut 

V  square  and  a  stitching  stitch 
used  in  sewing  the  seams.  They 
can  then  be  stuffed  with  cotton 
and  overhanded  on  the  fourth 
side.  The  sand-bags  are  oblong 
in  shape  and  sewed  in  the  same 
way.  Stuff  them  with  sand  and 
overhand  the  fourth  edge. 

The  bumpers  are  made  of  a 
square  of  muslin.  Sew  two  of 
the  opposite  sides  together  to  make  a  hollow  cylinder.  Cut 
disks  of  muslin  to  fit  the  ends  and  overhand  one  to  each  end 
of  the  cylinder.  Before  sewing  in  the  second  one,  run  in  a 
cord  and  fill  with  sand  (see  Fig.  91). 


u 

Fig.  92 


Fig.  93. 


Some  Special  JFork  for  Boys  139 

The  captain  of  the  boat  may  also  be  made  of  musHn. 
There  are  four  rolls,  one  for  the  head  and  trunk  which  is 
about  three-fourths  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  three  thinner 
rolls  to  form  the  arms  and  legs. 

In  preparing  the  rolls,  they  must  be  wound  very  tightly 
and  sewed.  In  rolHng,  double  the  roll  itself  after  winding  a 
few  times,  so  as  to  make  it  very  firm.  Sew  them  according 
to  Fig.  92.  Cut  patterns  for  the  clothes.  Suggestive  pat- 
terns are  offered  in  Fig.  93 ;  the  size  will  depend  on  the  doll 
and  boat. 

Mark  the  face  of  the  doll  with  ink,  and  sew  some  wool  or 
darning-cotton  to  the  top  of  the  roll  for  hair. 


CHAPTER  XIII 

HOW   TO   USE   NATURE'S   MATERIALS 

Nature  is  very  liberal  in  giving  us  materials  that  can  be 
used  by  the  children  in  their  work  or  play  with  very  little 
expense.  In  fact,  we  hardly  realize  how  much  we  have  ready 
at  hand  unless  our  attention  is  especially  called  to  it. 

The  materials  vary  in  different  parts  of  the  country;  for 
instance,  in  the  South  there  are  the  pine-needles,  the  pal- 
metto, the  corn-husks,  the  blue  grass  of  Kentucky,  the  wis- 
taria, grape-vines,  and  the  rushes.  An  ingenious  teacher, 
mother,  or  child  will  find  many  others  when  the  possibilities 
of  those  mentioned  above  are  learned.  As  one  goes  farther 
North,  one  finds  more  beautiful  grasses,  rushes,  birch  bark, 
twigs  from  the  trees,  willows,  grape-vines,  and  also  the  corn- 
husks,  which  have  very  beautiful  coloring.  Nature  is  indeed 
good  to  us  if  we  know  how  to  use  her  wealth. 

L    Chains 

Very  attractive  chains  can  be  made  by  the  little  people  from 
materials  which  they  have  gathered.  The  haws  from  the 
wild-rose  bushes  may  be  strung  together,  using  a  large  needle 
and  rather  coarse  thread.  Red  ears  of  corn,  dried  and  shelled, 
supply  excellent  material  for  another  style  of  chain.  Dried 
peas  and  squash  or  pumpkin-seeds,  used  together,  and  strung 
in  different  combinations  (see  Fig.  94),  are  exceedingly  pretty. 
Acorns  and  maple  wings  alternated  with  pieces  of  coarse  grass 
about  one  and  one-half  inches  long  (see  Fig.  94)  form  another 
chain.  Horse-chestnuts  of  small  size  can  also  be  used,  with 
or  without  the  coarse  grass.     We  might  enumerate  any  num- 

140 


Hon:  to  Use  Xaturc's  JIdfcridls 


141 


bcr  more,  but  from  these  suggestions  the  children  will  fmd 
something  that  may  be  used  to  form  the  bright  pretty  chains 
that  they  all  love  so 
well. 


II.    Fruit-Basket 


Materials.  —  Grape- 
vines. 

All  through  Italy 
and  Switzerland,  as 
the  trains  pull  into 
the  stations,  the  hot 
and  dusty  traveller 
sees  bands  of  Httle 
children  with  trays 
filled  with  the  dainti- 
est baskets,  full  of 
the  luscious  grapes  of 

those  countries.     These   baskets  are  made  of  grape-vines, 
and  are  woven  in  the  following  manner: 

Cut  five  four-inch  pieces  of  the  heavier  vine;  take  two  of 
these  and  split  them  in  the  centre  for  about  one  and  one-half 
inches  (see  Fig.  95).  Slip  the  other  three  through  this  sHt. 
Take  a  long  slim  piece  of  the  vine  and,  beginning  at  the  small- 
est end,  wind  it  over  and  under  the  crossed  spokes,  going 
tw^ice  around.  Then  insert  another  weaver  of  about  the  same 
size  and  make  three  rows  of  pairing  (see  Fig.  14);  fasten  the 
ends  by  working  them  into  the  weaving.     Do  not  try  to  press 

the  weavers  close  together,  as 
in  rattan  weaving.  These 
three  rows  should  make  the 
bottom  about  three  inches  in 
diameter.  At  the  side  of  each  spoke  insert  a  spoke  of  vine 
about  sixteen  inches  long.     If  the  pieces  are  rather  small  two 


Fig.  94. 


142 


Occupation.s  for  Little  Fingers 


may  be  put  in  together.  The  largest  end  of  the  vine  is  pushed 
in  at  the  side  of  the  spoke.  Bring  each  spoke,  .or  group  of 
spokes,  under  the  one  to  the  right,  over  the  next,  and  under 
the  next,  and  down  to  the  lower  edge  of  the  basket,  leaving 
a  loop  which  stands  up  about  four  inches.  Continue  in  this 
manner  all  around  the  basket ;  the  last  two  spokes  will  have  to 

go  under,  over,  and  under 
the  first  two  groups  that  were 
used.  When  all  the  spokes 
are  down  at  the  bottom,  fin- 
ish them  with  the  following 
border:  Take  the  first  spoke 
and  place  it  under  the  next 
one  to  the  right,  over  the 
next  one,  and  back.  Do  this 
all  around  the  basket,  work- 
ing the  last  spokes  in  through 
the  loops  formed  by  the  first. 
Cut  oft"  the  ends  that  are  left. 
Cut  two  lengths  of  vine  about 
seventeen  inches,  and  push 
them  into  the  bottom  nearly 
to  the  centre,  on  opposite  sides  of  the  basket.  These  pieces 
arc  to  form  the  handle.  Bring  them  up  on  the  outside  to 
the  top  of  the  basket,  twist  the  ends  together,  and  then  bring 
them  over  to  the  opposite  side  from  where  they  started.  Tie 
them  by  working  the  small  end  in  and  out  of  the  weaving 
and  around  the  handle  itself  (sec  Fig.  96).  This  finishes 
the  basket.  Fill  it  with  a  grape-leaf  and  a  bunch  of  grapes, 
and  you  will  have  a  very  artistic  combination. 


Fig.  96. 


III.     Hang;ing-Basket  for  Ferns 

Take  six  twigs  of  some  pliable  wood,  rather  green,  and 
about  a  yard  long.     Tie  them  together  at  the  small  ends, 


Hozv  to  Use  Nature  s  Materials 


143 


using  the  end  of  one  and  wrapping  it  around  the  others,  two 
or  three  times ;  fasten  by  slipping  it  into  the  wrapping.  Take 
each  end  in  turn  and  place  it  under  the  one  to  the  left  and  out. 
Continue  working  in  this  manner,  increasing  the  spaces  be- 
tween the  twists  or  ties  each  time,  to  make  the  basket  larger 
at  the  top  (sec  Fig. 
97).  When  you 
have  sixteen  or 
eighteen  rows,  if 
the  basket  is  as 
deep  as  you  desire 
it,  push  the  last 
spoke  through  the 
same  loop  that  the 
first  one  of  that 
row  went  under. 
To  complete  the 
basket,  cut  off  the  twigs  rather  close  to  where  they  arc 
fastened.  A  handle  may  be  added:  Take  a  long  pliable 
twig,  double  it  in  the  centre  and  pass  it  through  the  weav- 
ing on  one  side  a  couple  of  rows  from  the  top;  twist  the 
long  ends  together  and  bring  them  over  to  the  opposite  side, 
where  they  must  be  fastened  to  make  a  strong  finish.  Line 
the  inside  of  the  basket  with  moss,  and  plant  a  fern  in  it. 
A  hoop  of  wire  may  be  attached  to  one  side  in  place  of  the 
handle. 

IV.    Jar  Covered  with  Wistaria 

Materials. — Small  colored  jardiniere,  or  earthen  flower-pot. — 
Wistaria  vine. 

This  idea  is  borrowed  from  the  Japanese,  who  have  the 
wistaria  vine  in  great  abundance,  and  who  have  learned 
how  well  it  is  adapted  to  this  artistic  use.  Take  six  long, 
slim  pieces  of  the  vine  and  cross  them  three  and  three  in 
the  centre.    Tie  them,  and  place  on  the  bottom  of  the  jar  to 


144  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

find  the  diameter  of  the  bottom  or  where  the  weaving  is  to 
commence. 

Take  another  sHm  piece  of  vine,  double  it  in  the  centre, 
and  shp  it  over  one  of  the  spokes.  ]\Iake  three  or  four  rows 
of  paired  weaving  (see  Fig.  14),  drawing  it  in  shghtly  to  fit  the 
jar.  Cut  off  the  weavers  and  fasten  them  by  pushing  them 
into  the  weaving.  Cut  the  spokes  at  the  centre  where  they 
were  tied,  and  make  the  following  finish  at  the  bottom  close 
to  the  weaving.  Put  each  spoke  over  the  one  to  the  right 
and  inside.  The  last  spoke  goes  through  the  loop  formed  by 
the  first.  Cut  off  the  ends.  The  upper  part  is  made  by  ty- 
ing the  upper  part  of  the  spokes  in  knots :  either  the  Solomon's 
knot  or  the  sailor's  knot  may  be  used — both  are  described 
in  the  chapter  on  Cord-work.  Divide  the  spokes  into  groups 
of  four  and  tie  a  row  of  knots  around  the  jar.  Then  take  two 
spokes  from  each  knot,  and  tie  another  row  about  three- 
fourths  of  an  inch  above  the  first.  Continue  in  this  way,  the 
knots  forming  meshes,  until  within  one-half  of  an  inch  of  the 
top  of  the  jar.  Insert  a  weaver  and  work  with  paired  weaving 
to  the  top,  where  it  may  be  finished  off  with  the  following 
border.  Put  each  spoke  over  the  one  to  the  right  and  inside; 
the  last  spoke  goes  through  the  loop  formed  by  the  first. 

A  long  handle  may  be  added  in  the  same  manner  as  de- 
scribed in  the  fern-basket.  The  prettiest  jars  to  cover  are 
those  which  come  in  the  plain  glazed  colors,  green,  red,  blue, 
and  yellow  being  the  most  attractive.  If  these  cannot  be 
obtained,  flower-pots  of  unglazed  earthen-ware  may  be  used 
to  good  advantage. 

V.     Birch-Bark 

Birch-bark  is  another  material  which  has  many  possibilities, 
and  is  easily  obtained  in  certain  localities.  It  can  be  handled 
by  small  chiklrcn  as  it  is  quite  tough  and  pliable. 

A  simple  little  picture-frame  may  be  made  in  the  following 
manner:    Cut  two  pieces  of  the  bark  three  and  one-half  by 


PLATE   XVI 


145 


MAII'.KIAT.S 


I 


1.  Grape  basket. 

2.  Fern  basket. 

3.  Covered  jar. 

4.  Picture-frame. 

5.  Canoe  of  birch-barV-. 


6.  Box  of  birch-bark. 

7.  Corn-husk  hat. 

8.  Corn-husk  basket. 

9.  Hemp  and  grass  box. 
*  .  "laque 


11.  Hlue-prin't7    '  '    '    . 

12.  I'Jye-straw  basket. 

13.  Jar  covered  with  wis- 

taria 


146 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


three  inches,  or  any  other  dimensions  desired.  From  one 
cut  a  piece  from  the  centre,  leaving  a  one-inch  margin  all 
around.  Fasten  them  together  at  the  four  corners  with 
McGill  fasteners  No.  A.  A.  i,  or  with  a  little  bow  of  Poseidon 
cotton. 

In  connection  with  the  study  of  primitive  Hfe,  a  httle  canoe 
may  be  made.  Take  a  piece  of  bark  seven  inches  long  and 
five  inches  wide.  Find  the  centre  of  the  two  short  sides, 
measure  in  from  there  toward  the  centre  one  inch,  and  draw 
a  curved  line  from  that  point  to  the  outside  edge  at  the  cor- 
ners (see  Fig.  98).     The  long  sides  may  be  slightly  hollowed 


^V"^ 


Fig.  98. 


in  the  same  way.  With  a  small  punch  make  a  row  of  holes 
one-fourth  of  an  inch  from  the  edge  on  the  two  short  sides. 
Double  the  bark  together  and  lace  through  the  holes  twice 
with  a  piece  of  raffia,  making  the  stitches  cross.  A  decora- 
tion of  some  sort  may  be  painted  on  the  canoe  or  worked  with 
raffia. 

Work  for  the  older  children  may  take  the  form  of  boxes  or 
scrap-baskets.  For  the  box,  cut  two  disks  of  bark,  three  and 
three-fourth  inches  and  one  three  and  one-half  inches  in  diam- 
eter, one  strip  two  by  twelve  inches,  and  one  strip  one-half 
by  ten  and  one-half  inches.  Punch  a  row  of  small  holes  on  both 
edges  of  the  widest  strip,  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  from 


How  to  Use  Nature's  Materials  147 

the  edge  and  one-half  inch  apart,  and  at  one  end  make  two 

rows  of  holes  alternating  them.     On  the  edge  of  the  narrow 

strip  put  one  row  of  holes,  and  four  at  one  end.     On  the  disks 

punch  a  row  the  same  distance  from  the  edge  and  spaced  in 

the  same  way.     On  one  of  the  larger  disks  put  a  second  row 

just  inside  of  the  first  row  punched.     This  is  for  the  under  side 

of  the  cover  and  is  to  have  the  narrow  strip  laced  to  it  to  form 

an  edge,  which  holds  the  cover  on  the  box.     It  is  now  ready 

to  put  together.     Lap  the  widest  strip  one  inch,  and  sew  it 

with  raffia,  using  a  herringbone-stitch.      Fasten  this  to  the 

bottom  of  the  box,  i.e.,  the  smaller  disk,  using  a  straight  stitch 

connected    by   a 

slanting  one. 

This  makes  the 

s  e  w  i  n  g    V  e  r  y  „      r^c^ 

^  •'  Fig.  99. 

strong,    as   each 

stitch  passes  through  the  holes  twice.  The  finish  at  the 
top  is  similar,  a  thin  piece  of  pliable  wood  or  rattan 
being  laid  around  on  the  inside  of  the  box,  and  held  in 
place  by  the  stitches.  After  working  around  the  top  once, 
turn  and  come  back,  crossing  each  slanting  stitch  (see  Fig. 
99).  A  coil  of  sweet  grass  may  be  put  around  the  top  and  bot- 
tom of  the  box,  and  held  in  place  by  the  stitches.  For  the 
cover,  after  lacing  the  narrow  strip  to  the  disk  with  the  two 
rows  of  holes,  place  the  two  together  and  lace  them  around 
the  outside  edge  in  the  same  manner  as  the  top  of  the  box. 
Make  a  small  ring  of  raffia  and  fasten  it  to  the  centre  of  the 
cover.  The  birch-bark  for  these  boxes  must  be  of  rather 
heavy  quality. 

VL    Ojrn-Husk  Hat 

Materials. — Square  of  brown  paper. — Corn-husks. 

The  hat  shown  in  Plate  XVI,  No.  7,  is  a  miniature  of  those 
worn  by  the  negroes  in  the  cotton-fields.  They  are  very  light, 
easily  made,  and  cost  practically  nothing. 


148  Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 

Take  a  square  of  paper  the  diameter  of  the  hat  desired, 
fold  it  first  in  half,  then  in  quarters,  forming  a  small  square. 
Fold  this  on  the  diagonal,  and  keep  folding  it  in  this  way  until 
the  short  side  is  on  top.  Cut  off  the  paper  to  the  length  of 
this  short  side.  Measure  down  from  the  point,  one-sixth  of 
the  head  size,  and  cut  off.  This  will  give  the  brim  for  the 
hat.  Cut  a  circle  or  disk  for  the  top  of  the  crown  in  the  same 
manner.  These  pieces  and  a  straight  piece  for  the  side 
crown  are  to  be  covered  with  the  corn-husks.  Cut  the  husks 
into  one-inch  strips  and  point  one  end  by  folding  the  two 
corners  to  the  centre.  Lay  these  strips  on  the  paper  brim 
so  that  the  points  extend  just  beyond  the  edge,  and  the  strips 
overlap  each  other  slightly  at  the  outer  edge;  bring  them  to 
the  centre,  where  they  will  lap  considerably,  and  baste  to  hold 
them  in  position.  On  the  under  side  of  the  paper,  the  strips 
may  be  wider,  and  the  ends  straight  instead  of  pointed. 
Turn  them  under  and  place  them  even  with  the  outer  edge 
of  the  paper;  lap  them  in  the  same  way  as  on  the  upper  side. 
Take  the  piece  of  paper  for  the  side  crown  and  cover  it  with 
the  husks  in  the  same  manner  as  the  upper  brim,  pointing  one 
end  of  each  strip  and  letting  it  extend  about  one  inch  beyond 
the  edge.  The  crown  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  the  pieces 
meeting  in  the  centre,  where  the  ends  are  covered  with  a 
small  circle  of  husk.  After  all  the  pieces  are  prepared,  they 
are  to  be  stitched  on  the  machine  to  hold  them  in  place. 
Start  in  the  centre  and  stitch  around  the  crown,  spacing  the 
rows  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  apart.  After  the  crown 
is  stitched,  put  three  or  four  rows  on  the  side  crown.  Then 
baste  it  to  the  brim,  lapping  the  points  the  width  that  they 
extend  beyond  the  paper,  stitch  it  in  the  same  way  as  the 
crown.  Fasten  the  top  of  the  crown  and  the  side  crown 
together  by  taking  several  stitches  between  each  point.  Trim 
out  the  head  size.  These  hats  are  quite  attractive  when 
trimmed.  If  a  machine  is  not  available  for  the  finishing,  some 
fancy  stitcli  that  will  hold  the  husks  in  place  may  be  used. 


How  to  Use  yaf lire's  Materials  149 


VIL     Corn-Husk  Baskets 

In  some  localities  where  corn-husks  are  very  plentiful, 
they  may  be  used  for  baskets  in  place  of  raffia.  The  coiled 
basket  described  in  Chapter  III  works  out  very  well  with 
the  husks,  which  may  be  split  and  used  for  the  sewing  also. 
Several  pieces  are  laid  together  and  are  wrapped  with  an 
extra  piece  to  form  a  coil.  The  short  length  of  the  husk  ne- 
cessitates frequent  piecing;  always  lap  them  with  the  small 
end  over  the  large  one.  To  piece  them  for  sewing  tie  them 
together  with  an  overhand  knot. 

Plate  XVI,  No.  8,  shows  a  basket  where  the  spokes  are  of 
rattan  and  the  weavers  are  of  coiled  corn-husks.  Take  eight 
pieces  of  No.  3  rattan,  sixteen  inches  long,  and  one,  nine 
inches  long.  Cross  them  four  and  four  in  the  centre,  and  add 
the  extra  spoke  either  at  the  corner  or  in  the  centre  of  one  side. 
Tie  in  place  with  a  strand  of  raffia.  Have  ready  a  coil  of 
the  husks  about  six  yards  long,  and  use  it  as  a  weaver,  passing 
it  over  and  under  one  spoke  each  time.  When  the  mat  is 
about  four  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  bend  the  spokes 
up  at  the  sides  and  continue  with  the  weaving  until  the  sides 
are  about  one  and  one-half  inches  high.  Cut  off  the  coil  and 
tie  the  ends  to  keep  them  from  unwinding.  Take  a  w'eaver 
of  No.  2  rattan,  double  it  in  the  centre  and  make  several  rows 
of  paired  weaving  (see  Fig.  14)  around  the  top  of  the  basket. 
Cut  off  the  ends  and  work  them  into  the  weaving.  Finish 
the  top  with  the  following  border,  after  the  spokes  have  been 
soaked  to  make  them  pliable.  Place  each  spoke  in  succession 
back  of  the  next  one  to  the  right,  in  front  of  the  next,  and  back 
of  the  next  to  the  inside  of  the  basket.  The  last  two  spokes 
will  be  worked  through  the  loops  formed  by  the  first  ones. 
After  the  border  is  dry,  trim  the  ends  of  the  spokes  to  within 
one-half  inch  of  the  border. 


150  Occupations  for  Little  Finge7\s 

VIII.     Grass  and  Hemp  Baskets 

The  most  artistic  use  we  can  make  of  the  materials  that 
Nature  offers  to  us,  is  the  grass  basket  sewed  with  hemp. 
These  baskets  are  by  far  the  most  difficuh  to  execute  of  any 
that  have  been  thus  far  described,  but  are  so  charming  w^hen 
finished  that  they  repay  one  for  the  time  and  labor  they  de- 
mand. Hemp  in  its  natural  color  may  be  bought  at  any 
cordage  company.  It  is  a  fibre  which  takes  the  dye  easily, 
and  artistic  colors  may  be  obtained  by  the  use  of  vegetable 
dyes.  To  prepare  it,  divide  it  into  hanks  about  as  large  as 
the  wrist,  and  wrap  it  in  coils.  It  can  be  dampened  before 
putting  it  in  the  dye,  but  it  does  not  need  to  be  put  in  a  mor- 
dant. To  dry  it,  loosen  the  coil  and  hang  it  up;  after  dry- 
ing, it  is  best  to  coil  it  again,  as  it  is  a  delicate  fibre  and  apt 
to  become  tangled  and  easily  broken. 

The  grasses  for  these  baskets  should  be  gathered  in  the 
early  part  of  the  summer,  before  they  blossom;  long,  pliable 
leaves  are  the  best  for  the  purpose.  They  should  be  thor- 
oughly dried  in  a  shady  place  as  the  sun  will  take  out  some 
of  the  charming  color.  Grasses  which  grow  in  swampy  land 
will  be  found  excellent  for  this  purpose.  Rushes,  Hag,  and 
the  broad  leaves  of  the  prairie  grasses  may  also  be  used.  The 
stiff  grass  which  comes  up  the  last  of  August,  after  the  hay  has 
been  cut,  and  which  turns  a  soft  brown  with  the  first  frost, 
makes  a  nice  variation  in  color.  It  is  also  good  to  use  for 
filling,  as  it  is  very  firm.  Rye  straw  sewed  with  yellow  or 
green  hemp  is  very  artistic.  The  corn-husks  which  are  used 
to  make  a  pattern  in  the  baskets,  may  be  found  in  many 
colors — yellow,  red,  and  a  reddish  brown. 

As  the  hemp  is  rather  difficult  for  a  beginner  to  manage, 
it  is  best  to  sew  the  first  basket  made  with  raffia,  using  the 
hemp  for  the  centre,  and  putting  in  the  grasses  around  the 
edge  for  a  finish. 

Take  a  bunch  of  hemp  about  as  large  as  the  little  finger  (in 


How  to  Use  Xature's  Materiah 


151 


dividing  the  hemp  always  try  to  divide  it  where  it  separates 
naturally,  and  take  hold  of  it  near  the  centre,  pulling  it  both 
ways),  wrap  the  large  end  five  times  with  rafiia  of  a  contrast- 
ing color  which  has  been  threaded  into  a  large-eyed  needle, 
spacing  the  wrappings  about  one-fourth  of  an  inch  apart. 
Coil  in  a  small  circle  and  take  one  stitch  through  to  hold  it. 
Then  begin  sewing  the  long  end  of  the  hemp  down,  taking  a 
stitch  in  each  of  the  first  'iwc  wrappings.  The  hemp  is  held 
in  the  left  hand  with  the  thumb  and  second  finger,  the  first 
finger  being  left  free  to  hold  each  stitch  in  place  while  the 


Fig.  lOU. 


rafiia  is  being  drawn  through  the  coil;  the  long  end  of  the 
hemp  must  not  be  held  by  the  hand,  but  be  left  loosely  hang- 
ing to  the  left  (see  Fig.  loo).  Each  stitch  is  taken  through 
the  coil,  the  needle  being  put  in  from  the  back  toward  the 
worker,  and  so  that  it  passes  under  the  stitch  in  the  last  coil; 
before  this  stitch  is  pulled  through,  place  it  at  the  desired 
angle,  and  hold  it  firmly  with  the  first  finger.  This  forms  the 
swirls.  When  the  stitches  get  too  far  apart,  new  ones  are 
added  half-way  in  the  spaces.  Do  not  have  the  stitches  too 
close  together,  as  it  will  spoil  the  efi"ect.  Each  stitch  must  be 
pulled  tight  before  the  next  one  is  put  in,  for  upon  this  de- 


152 


Occupations  foj^  Little  Fingers 


pends  the  beauty  of  the  basket.  As  the  hemp  becomes  thin, 
another  bunch  may  be  added  by  separating  the  old  one  and 
hiding  the  new  ends  between.  Continue  sewing  until  the 
bottom  is  about  three  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter.  Cut 
off  the  ends  of  the  hemp  to  within  two  and  one-half  or  three 
inches  of  the  last  stitch.  Take  a  bunch  of  long  green  grass, 
about  the  same  size  as  the  hemp,  arrange  it  so  that  all  the 
large  ends  are  together  and,  separating  the  hemp  as  before, 
hide  the  ends.  Take  one  or  two  stitches  over  both  grass  and 
hemp,  and  then  gradually  work  the  latter  to  the  WTong  side 
of  the  basket,  where  it  is  cut  off.  In  working  with  the  grass, 
the  coil  must  be  kept  full — this  means  adding  grass  frequently, 
always  working  toward  the  small  end  and  hiding  the  new 
large  ends  by  placing  them  in  the  centre  of  the  old  ones. 

When  the  bottom  of  the  basket  is  large  enough,  begin 
building  it  up  on  the  sides.  The  same  principle  applies  here 
as  in  coiled  basket  described  in  the  chapter  on  Rafiia;  the 
angle  at  which  the  coils  are  laid  on  one  another  determines 


Fig.  101. 


the  shape.  The  grass  l)eing  stiffcr  than  the  raffia,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  shape  it  somewhat  with  the  hands.  In  order  to 
finish  the  basket  at  the  lop,  cut  oul  some  of  the  grass  and  lap 
the  ends  down  on  the  outside,  sewing  them  firmly.  This  way 
of  building  up  the  sides  is  only  used  where  the  inside  of  the 
basket  is  the  right  side. 

In  shaping  a  basket,  where  the  sides  are  to  curve  out  and 


How  to  Use  Nature\s  3I(dc rials  153 

then  be  brought  in,  a  different  principle  is  used.  When  ready 
to  turn  it  up,  bring  the  material  with  which  you  are  sewing 
under  the  coil  and  turn  the  basket  around  so  that  the  grass  ex- 
tends toward  the  right  instead  of  the  left.  Place  the  needle 
through  each  stitch  in  the  same  direction  you  have  been 
working  (see  Fig.  loi) ;  this  will  change  the  slant  of  the  stitch 
but  will  bring  the  right  side  of  the  basket  toward  the  worker. 

A  basket  started  with  grass  and  sewed  with  hemp  is  more 
difficult  to  manage  on  account  of  the  quality  of  the  hemp. 
This  must  be  divided  into  needlefuls  before  beginning  to  sew. 
Tie  up  each  one  separately,  and  place  them  in  some  con- 
venient spot  where  they  will  not  become  tangled  with  the 
grass.  A  sail  needle  is  the  best  to  use,  and  each  needleful 
should  be  large  enough  to  pass  through  the  eye  easily.  Take 
away  all  the  short  pieces,  as  they  will  only  bother  later,  and 
thread  in  the  needle  from  the  large  end ;  if  slightly  dampened 
the  hemp  will  work  better.  To  piece  the  hemp  use  a  weav- 
er's knot  (see  Plate  I,  No.  9)  and  tie  close  to  the  last  stitch. 
Follow  the  directions  for  sewing  with  the  rafilia,  being  sure  to 
hold  each  stitch  down  carefully  with  the  first  finger  while 
pulling  the  hemp  through.  Keep  the  coil  of  grass  full,  i.e., 
about  the  size  of  the  finger.  When  the  bottom  is  large  enough 
bring  the  hemp  under  the  coil  to  the  outside,  and  continue 
sewing,  building  the  coils  on  top  of  one  another.  Better  ef- 
fects may  be  gained  by  using  heavier  grasses  for  the  up- 
per part  of  the  basket.  Keep  the  grasses  parallel  to  each 
other,  and  do  not  let  them  twist. 

It  is  well  to  make  a  design  for  the  shape  before  beginning  to 
work;  any  pottery  form  will  answer  nicely.  Plate  XVI,  No. 
10,  shows  a  placjue  or  tray  where  the  corn-husk  is  put  in  to 
form  a  j)attern ;  the  centre  is  started  the  same  as  the  foregoing 
basket.  After  working  until  the  centre  is  about  three  inches 
in  diameter,  start  the  pattern  in  the  following  manner:  Tear 
the  corn-husk  into  strips  about  one  inch  wide  by  three  inches 
long,  fold  the  long  edges  in  slightly  toward  the  centre.     Gather 


154 


Occupations  for  Little  Fingers 


one  end  together  and  slip  it  under  the  coil  of  grass  to  the  wrong 
side,  close  to  the  last  stitch.  Wrap  the  long  end  over  the  grass 
and  take  two  or  three  stitches,  gradually  working  the  other 
end  over  to  the  wrong  side  of  the  basket;    this  should  make 

both  ends  on  the  slant  (see  Fig. 
102).  When  exactly  opposite 
where  the  first  piece  of  husk 
was  put  in,  insert  a  second  one 
in  the  same  way,  and  sew  it 
down  with  the  same  number  of 
stitches.  This  starts  the  pat- 
tern, which  may  be  worked  out 
in  any  form  desired,  increasing 
and  decreasing  the  spaces  cov- 
ered by  the  husk. 

In  piecing  the  grass,  it  is' well 

to    do   so   under   the    husk   as 

it  will  show  less.     Bands  of  different  colored  grasses  may  be 

worked  in  with  very  good  effect.     In  finishing  a  large  plaque 

or  basket  insert  a  stitch  between  each  swirl  for  the  outside 


Fig.  102. 


row. 


IX.     Blue  Prints  of  Grasses 


Materials. — Blue    print    paper. — Printing     frame. — Grasses 
or  ferns. 

These  prints  are  very  easy  to  make  and  are  exceecHngly  at- 
tractive. 

Gather  the  grasses,  leaves,  or  ferns,  and  place  them  in  the 
printing  frame  between  the  glass  and  the  paper.  Expose  them 
for  about  ten  minutes,  and  then  wash  the  print  in  cold  water. 

The  children  can  make  interesting  books  by  mounting  the 
prints  on  one  page,  and  writing  a  description  of  the  grass  or 
leaf  on  the  opposite  side. 

THE    END 


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